Weiern Cable Car

Please note: the following text is a machine translation by DeepL (www.DeepL.com/Translator). The original text is written in German and available in the download-section.

As boys, we used to play with our cable car. We weren't always happy with the game because the cableway only had one cable on which the gondolas floated up and down. The rope derailed too often, and the tension was usually not high enough and therefore offered too little resistance on the rotating wheel. - For this reason, I designed a different ride from scratch. It has a suspension cable on which the chassis rolls and a hauling cable that allows the gondola to travel uphill or downhill. The design is intended for outdoor use - however, a wooden ride is not weatherproof, even if it is neatly painted.

The track has a description and corresponding plans for each part, which are referenced in the instructions. I provide the Inkscape files for free use. If you have access to a laser cutter, you can start directly with the cutting files. The parts are cut from 3 mm and 5 mm MDF, which can be seen in the file name.

• Drill or hand drill
• Drill bits of different diameters (according to the axes and screws used)
• Metal saw or cutting disk
• Screwdriver according to the screws used
• Open-end wrench for M4 and M5
• Countersink for wood screws
• Hammer
• File set
• Reamer
• Sanding block
• Sandpaper
• Screw clamps
• Wood glue
• Screw locking varnish

The train consists of the upper and lower stations, the gondola, which is assembled from the chassis and the hanger with running gear.

The plan for the undercarriage is contained in the file Seilbahn-Weiern-Plan-Fahrwerk.pdf. The cutting files are called Seilbahn-Weiern-Fahrwerk-3mm.svg and Seilbahn-Weiern-Fahrwerk-5mm.svg.

The following description refers to the letters in the PDF for the parts and the numbers for the holes to be drilled.

Material:

• Cut parts from 3 and 5 mm thick material
• Roundwood diameter 8 mm, 52 mm long
• Round wood diameter 4 mm, 35 mm long
• 4 ball bearings with outer diameter 10 mm, inner diameter 5 mm
• 8 wood screws with countersunk head 6 mm long (4) for fastening parts J1 to J4
• 5 wood screws with countersunk head 6 mm long (2) for fastening parts F and G
• 2 small wood screws (6) for locking the wheels K on the axle
• 1 small wood screw (5) for locking L on the round timber
• 2 M3 cylinder head screws approx. 10 mm long (1) for fastening parts H and I
• 4 M3 washers
• 2 M3 lock nuts
• 4 M5 nuts
• 4 M5 washers
• 2 M5 threaded rods, 34 mm long (3) as axles

Work steps:

First drill the holes in the laser-cut parts. Use the appropriate drill bits for the screws used:

1. parts A, B and G: holes of size (1) in the material list
2. parts F and G: holes of size (2) in the material list. If you are using very thick screws, the corresponding holes should also be enlarged on parts A and B. The laser-cut hole measures only 1.2 mm.
3. parts K1 to K6: holes of size (3) in the materials list.
4. parts J1 to J4: holes of size (4) in the material list
5. part L between the prongs towards the central hole: hole for the wood screw (5)
6. 4 mm hole in the center of the round timber with a diameter of 8 mm

Then insert the ball bearings. They can be inserted quite easily from one side of parts A and B, as the laser does not cut at right angles. The hole is slightly larger on one side. Place part A on the worktable, press the bearing in as far as you can, then place a piece of waste MDF on the bearing and tap it in carefully with a hammer so that it is flush on the side below. The bearing will protrude about 1 mm from the inside of the MDF. Proceed in the same way with part B.

Then start to glue the undercarriage box together from parts A to D. Make sure that part C is on the "valley side" (see plan). From this perspective, part A becomes the left-hand side (A, l) and B the right-hand side (B, r). Finally, glue part E onto the box. Make sure that the slot of part E is on the valley side.

Widen the holes of parts J1 to J4 on the outside with a countersink for the countersunk head of the selected screws.

Screw the four covers of bearings J1 to J4 onto the outside of parts A and B to protect the bearings from dust. Break all edges of the box with sandpaper.

Glue parts K1 onto K2 and K3 onto K2 to create a pulley with a cable guide. Insert the 5 mm threaded rod through the hole in the middle and secure the pulley with 2 nuts and washers. Proceed in the same way with parts K4 to K6.

After the rollers have dried, drill an angled hole in each one towards the axle hole. Screw in a wood screw (6) so that its tip does not reach the axle hole.

Glue the 35 mm long 4 mm round timber into the corresponding holes (on the valley side in A and B)

Break the outer edges of parts F and G with sandpaper. Then screw F to the left-hand side of the box (F, l) and G to the right-hand side (G, r) using the screws (2).

Attach part H to G, r with an M3 screw (1) in the material list. Place a washer under the screw head and the lock nut. Tighten so firmly that H cannot move.

Fasten part I on G, r with an M3 screw (1) in the material list. Place a washer under the screw head and the locking nut. Only tighten so firmly that I can still be moved.

Drill a suitable pilot hole for the locking screw through L into the axle (see plan). Glue the 8 mm round rod into part L. Screw in the wood screw so that the star sits firmly on the axle. Break the edges of the star and the counter ring M.

The undercarriage is now ready for painting. I used acrylic paint for this.

Once dry, carefully cut through the layer of paint around parts J1 and J2 and remove the bearing cover. Push the threaded rod through the bearing, push a roller onto the threaded rod, push the threaded rod into the opposite bearing. Align the roller in the center of the box and screw in the locking screw until it is seated on the threaded rod. Proceed in the same way with the other axle. Then screw the bearing covers back on.

Insert the axle with the star from G, r through the bearing. Push the circlip M onto the axle. If necessary, rework the hole in F and G slightly with the reamer. The star should rotate easily. Check the locking mechanism with parts H and I. I should engage in the teeth of the star and lock the star in one direction of rotation against H. Then glue M to the axle.

The plan for the hanger is contained in the file Seilbahn-Weiern-Plan-Haenger.pdf, the cutting files in Seilbahn-Weiern-Haenger-5mm.svg.

Material:

• Cut parts from 5 mm thick material
• 1 M5 threaded rod, 60 mm long for fastening the hanger
• 2 M5 lock nuts
• 3 M5 washers
• 2 wood screws with countersunk head, >12 mm long (1)

Work steps:

First drill the holes (1) according to the size (1) in the materials list in part A. Widen the hole for the countersunk head with a countersink for wood screws. This width will be the inside of the hanger.

Glue part D to the upper end of the hanger. This part will later be on the inside.

Glue two parts B and 2 parts C on top of each other. Press the parts between screw clamps.

Glue parts B and C into the hanger. Insert the parts from the outside. Pre-drill the pilot hole from the inside through the hanger into parts B and C for the screws. Widen the hole for the head of the screw with a countersink. Screw in the screws.

Break all edges with sandpaper and paint the hanger to your liking.

Once dry, screw an M5 lock nut onto the M5 threaded rod so that the rod and nut are flush. Slide an M5 washer onto the rod, then the hanger, then another washer, then the chassis and another washer. Finally, screw on the second lock nut. If necessary, use pliers to hold the threaded rod in the chassis box. Screw the nut onto the rod until the landing gear box can be moved with a slight amount of play.

The plan for the cabin is contained in the file Seilbahn-Weiern-Plan-Kabine.pdf, the cutting files in Seilbahn-Weiern-Kabine-3mm.svg and Seilbahn-Weiern-Kabine-5mm.svg.

Material:

• Cut parts from 3 and 5 mm thick material
• 4 pieces of triangular wood of 10 mm catheter length, length 104 mm
• Round wood diameter 6 mm, 25 mm long for locking pin
• 4 wood screws, length approx. 15 mm (1) for connecting the roof to the cabin
• 4 wood screws with countersunk head, length >10 mm (2) for securing the roof structure laterally and through the roof
• 1 wood screw, length approx. 12 mm (3) for the safety beam
• 1 wood screw, length 12 mm (4) for the latch on the door
• 6 wood screws with countersunk head, length approx. 8 mm (5) for fastening the door guide rails
• 1 small eyebolt (6) for the locking pin

Work steps:

Glue parts A and B (to make the roof) and C and D (to make the floor) together. Parts B and D protrude on one side - this is where the doors will be installed later.

Then drill the holes for the screws:

1. through part AB according to the size (1) in the material list
2. from below through part AB according to size (2) in the materials list. Widen the holes with the countersink for wood screws.
3. through parts R and V according to size (2) in the material list. Extend the holes with the countersink for wood screws.
4. through part Y according to size (3) in the material list. Widen the hole with the countersink.
5. through part O according to size (4) in the materials list
6. through parts E and F according to size (5) in the materials list. Widen the holes with the countersink.
7. drill a pilot hole in the front of the round timber for the eyebolt (6).
8. drill a 3 mm diameter hole in the center of the round timber. Give the edges of the hole a slight chamfer using a countersink.

Glue E and F to the projection under AB and on top of CD. Secure the guide rails with the 6 wood screws (5).

Assemble the cabin on CD by gluing parts G, H, I, J together and to CD. Secure the box with adhesive tape during the setting time.

Glue a triangular strip into each corner of the box.

Push part M through the slot in part K and apply a little glue to the protruding end. Apply glue to part N and slide it over the protrusion of M. Then slide M and N back to the front of part K until M and N are flush on the inside and N is fully seated on part K.

Glue O2 to the inside of part L. The position is shown in red dashed lines on the plan.

Glue part Q onto part P (to form the base of the box). The position is marked with a red dotted line on the plan.

Glue parts S and T to the inside of part R. The position is marked with a red dotted line.

Assemble the box on part P by gluing parts R, U, V, W together. Secure the box with adhesive tape during the setting time.

Take the hanger and check whether it can be easily pushed into the box. If necessary, rework the hanger and/or the box with a file.

Screw in the two screws (2) in the middle of parts R and V.

Glue part X onto the box as a cover.

Glue the box to AB. Screw the two screws (2) through AB into the box.

Glue Z1 and Z2 together. Slide the 6 mm round timber with a little glue, the pilot hole for the eyebolt first, into the hole in the middle of Z1-2. The round timber is flush with Z1-2.

Sand all the edges of the cabin and the doors with sandpaper. The cabin is now ready for painting. Do not paint the guide channel for the doors on AB and CD!

After drying, screw part O1 onto L with screw (4).

Screw part Y to R with screw (3). Leave some play so that the lever can be turned.

Screw the eyebolt (6) into the locking pin Z1-2. Attach a piece of string to the eyebolt and to the hanger so that the locking pin does not get lost.

Insert the doors and place part AB on the cabin. Fasten the roof with the 4 screws (1).

Check that the doors move smoothly. After painting, reworking will probably be necessary here.

Slide the hanger into the roof structure, close the lever Y and secure it with the locking pin.

The plan for the top and bottom stations is contained in the file Seilbahn-Weiern-Plan-Stationen.pdf, the section files in Seilbahn-Weiern-Stationen-5mm.svg.

Material:

• Cut parts from 5 mm thick material
• Beech wood strip 40x25 mm, 1 m long
• 2 pieces of round wood with a diameter of 6 mm (3), approx. 40 mm long
• 4 ball bearings with outer diameter 10 mm, inner diameter 5 mm
• 22 wood screws with countersunk head (1), approx. 16 mm long for fastening the side parts and the bracing of the crosspiece of the bottom station
• 2 small wood screws (6) with a diameter of 2 mm for fastening the cover G4 to the crank handle
• M5 threaded rod, length 71 mm
• M5 threaded rod, length 57 mm
• 4 M5 drive-in nuts
• 8 M5 washers
• 2 M4 screws with countersunk head, length 30 mm
• 2 M4 drive-in nuts
• 2 M4 stop nuts
• 1 M4 washer
• 1 steel tent peg, approx. 300 mm long
• 2 simple tent pegs, approx. 200 mm long
• Screw locking varnish

Work steps:

Saw the beech wood parts B and C to size: 2 pieces 310 mm long (B1, C1), 2 pieces 30 mm long (B2, C2).

Mark the drilling point (2) on the narrow side 45 mm from the top of parts B1 and C1.

Draw the drilling point (3) on part B1 about 60 mm below the drilling point (2).

Draw the drilling point (3) on part C2 in the middle of the narrow side.

Draw a line on both sides across the wide side of parts B1 and C1 210 mm from the bottom (see dashed line on the plan).

Place part A on the line on B1 and use an awl or nail to transfer the drill holes for the screws (1).

Place part B2 flush with the opposite end under part A and transfer the drill holes.

Repeat the process for parts C1 and C2

Mark the holes (4) in the center at a distance of 55 mm from the end on the wide side of the beech wood C3.

Transfer the holes (1) at the bottom of C4 to the narrow side of C3.

Glue two parts A onto each other. Press the parts between screw clamps.

Glue G1 onto G2 and then G3 onto G1. Secure the parts with an M4 screw, a washer and a lock nut. This creates the crank knob.

Glue the two parts F together. Press the parts together with screw clamps

Then drill the holes:

1. Drill the holes (1) in the glued parts A if necessary if you are using thicker screws than 2 mm.
2. drill the pilot holes in parts B1, B2, C1 and C2 using a drill bit smaller than the screw diameter (1).
3. drill the holes (2) in B1 and C1 using a 20 mm drill bit
4. drill a 6 mm hole (3) about 15 mm deep in parts B1 and C2.
5. drill a slightly larger hole (4) than the diameter of your single tent peg in C3.
6. drill the pilot holes in C3 with a drill bit smaller than the screw diameter (1).
7. drill a hole (5) 2 mm deep in D1, E1 and part F in the diameter of your M5 drive-in nuts (dotted on the plan).
8. drill 5 mm holes in the center of D1-D3 and in E1-E3.

Glue D1 to D2, then D3 to D2. Make sure that the recess for the drive-in nut is on the outside. Secure the parts with an M-5 screw in the center. Press the wheel with clamps. Proceed in the same way with parts E1-E3.

Glue the beech round timber into hole (3).

Widen all holes (1) in the MDF parts on one side with a countersink for the countersunk heads of the screws.

Drive the ball bearings into the parts A. Place a piece of waste MDF on the bearing and tap it carefully with a hammer. Widen the holes with a reamer if necessary.

Glue part A onto B1. Screw in the screws (1). Then glue B2 on and screw in the screws (1). Proceed in the same way with C1 and C2. - The other side remains open so that the wheel can be fitted later.

Glue the two parts C4 to one side of C3 and screw in the screws (1).

Place C1 between the two brackets C4 and transfer the drill holes. Drill the pilot holes in C1 using a drill bit smaller than the screw diameter (1).

Glue C1 between the brackets C4 and screw in the screws (1).

Glue the two runners into B1 and C2

Glue the ball bearings inside and outside with a small piece of adhesive tape.

Sand over all parts and break the edges.

The upper and lower stations are now ready for painting.

After the paint has dried:

1. use the reamer to carefully widen the axle hole of D and E on the side with the recess so that the drive-in nut can be inserted.
2. insert a drive-in nut and tap it lightly with a hammer. The spikes of the drive-in nut will leave an impression.
3. drill pilot holes at the points obtained. The diameter of the drill bit should be 0.5 mm smaller than the width of the spikes of the drive-in nut.
4. then drive the drive-in nuts all the way in.

Now assemble the stations:

Insert an M4 screw through part G, insert a washer on the other side, then push on the knob with the smaller roundel first. Then screw a stop nut onto the screw and only tighten it enough so that the knob can still be turned easily. Place part G4 on the knob to finish it off. Transfer the screw position to the knob using an awl or a fine nail. Drill pilot holes with a diameter to match the screws used. Screw part G4 onto the knob. Do not glue so that the nut remains accessible.

Turn the longer M5 threaded rod through the drive-in nut of F. It should protrude about 15 mm beyond F. Place a washer on top. Screw on a stop nut. Screw it in until the threaded rod is flush with the outside of the nut. Apply some threadlocker to the threaded part between the F and the stop nut. Then turn the threaded rod until the stop nut rests firmly on F. You can use pliers to hold the threaded rod close to D. The damaged part then comes to rest in the ball bearing.

Slide two washers onto the crank and guide the threaded rod through the ball bearing of the firmly glued part A. Then turn the wheel D onto the threaded rod with the drive-in nut first. Apply some threadlocker between part A (fixed) and the wheel. Turn the wheel in until it is centered between part A (fixed) and the part A still to be attached. Insert a washer and turn a stop nut up to the wheel. Hold the wheel firmly and tighten the nut with an open-end wrench.

Push the threaded rod through the loose part A, insert a washer and screw on a stop nut.

Now screw part A tight with the screws (1) without gluing so that the wheel remains accessible. Then turn the stop nut in or out until the wheel can be turned easily with the crank.

For the top station, screw a stop nut onto the second M5 threaded rod until it is flush with the threaded rod. Add a washer and insert the threaded rod through the fixed part A of C1, C2. Then turn the wheel E onto the threaded rod with the drive-in nut first. Apply some threadlocker between part A (fixed) and the wheel. Turn the wheel in until it is centered between part A (fixed) and the part A still to be attached. Insert a washer and turn a stop nut up to the wheel. Hold the wheel firmly and tighten the nut with the open-end wrench.

Push the threaded rod through the loose part A, insert a washer and screw on a stop nut.

Now screw part A tight with the screws (1) without gluing so that the wheel remains accessible. Then turn the stop nut in or out until the wheel can be turned easily.

The plan for the reels is contained in the file Seilbahn-Weiern-Plan-Stationen.pdf, the cut files in Seilbahn-Weiern-Haspel-5mm.svg.

Material:

• Cut 5 mm thick material
• Carrying rope
• Hauling rope
• Scissors
• Match for fusing the rope ends

Calculate the length of the suspension and hauling rope:

You can easily calculate how much suspension and hauling rope you need using Pythagoras' theorem:

If a represents the height that the track overcomes and b the horizontal distance it takes to do so, the rope length of c is calculated as follows:

c = √ (a² + b²) 

Since you will be tying loops on the suspension rope, take half a meter more rope than you have calculated. I bought 4 mm rope as used for climbing.

For the hauling rope I also bought cord, but with a diameter of 2 mm. The length must be twice as long as the calculated distance c. As the rope is passed around the pulleys 1.5 times and then wrapped around an axle for tensioning, you need 2.5 m more. There will be a piece left over to make a restraining rope for the bottom station.

Work steps:

Break all edges with sandpaper and paint the reel.

Melt the ends of the suspension rope with a match.

Tie a loop about 50 mm in diameter at each end of the suspension rope. Hang the rope with the loop knot in the slot of the reel and wind up the rope.

Melt the ends of the hauling rope with a piece of kindling.

Tie a knot in the pulling rope at one end. Hang the knot in the slot of the second reel and wind up the rope.

Material:

• Both reels
• 2 simple tent pegs
• 1 large tent peg
• Top and bottom station
• Screw clamp for fastening the mountain station
• Hammer
• Scissors
• Match to melt the ends of the hauling rope

Work steps:

The first assembly will involve cutting the hauling rope to the appropriate length and tying a restraining rope for the bottom station from the remaining piece.

Fasten the top station at the intended height using screw clamp(s). The dowel points uphill.

Unwind the suspension rope. Guide the end loop of the suspension cable through the large hole in the top station. Hang the loop over the dowel. Lower the suspension rope to the ground.

Guide the hauling rope from the inside through the hole in the gondola's running gear opposite the star wheel. Pull the entire rope through until the knot is on the inside. Lower the gondola to the ground by the traction cable.

Guide the other end of the pull rope from the bottom front through the space between the wheel and part B1. Guide the rope all the way around the wheel, back through the bottom and out again at the top. The double guide will prevent the rope from easily jumping out of the pulley. Pull the rope through until the cabin just remains on the ground.

Go to the bottom station. Take the suspension rope and guide it through the large hole in the bottom station. The protruding round timber points uphill. Tension the rope slightly. Insert the large tent peg through the end loop. Now tighten the rope firmly. It must not sag with the cabin on top. Drive the peg into the ground with a hammer. Drive it in so far that the rope tension cannot pull the peg out of the ground.

Now set up the bottom station. Push it against the peg until the tension of the suspension cable presses the station against the ground. Now drive the simple tent pegs through the holes in the crossbeam of the station.

Place the trolley on the suspension cable at the bottom station. Thread the hauling rope from the top front through the space between the wheel and part C2. Guide the rope all the way around the wheel and out again at the bottom.

Thread the end of the rope through the opening on the valley side of the trolley, guide the rope around the dowel inside the trolley and out through the slot in the trolley at the top. Push the end of the cable through the hole in the axle of the star wheel. Pull the end out far enough so that the traction cable does not sag. Hold the cable firmly above the axle so that it does not slip out of all the guides again. Cut the pull rope about 50 mm above the axle. Lightly melt the end of the pull rope above the axle with a match.

Now wind the pull rope clockwise using the star wheel. Make sure that the winding runs over the end of the rope and holds it in place. Apply little tension to the rope.

Lightly melt the cut you have just made on the pull rope with a match. Tie an approximately 120 mm loop.

Hang the loop over the round timber in the bottom station, pass it around the large herring with slight tension and secure it with several loops, as sailors use for mooring ships: https://www.animatedknots.com/cleat-hitch-knot-dock-line

Now use the star wheel to tighten the hauling rope.

Now nothing should stand in the way of playing with the ropeway. Have fun.