Upgrade Legacy AKURUM Kitchen With New IKEA Door & Draws

This is a detail instructions on my trials and tribulations, my pains and woes of putting in new IKEA kitchen doors & draw fronts into old AKURUM frames, yet keeping all existing metal hardware.

It's not for for the faint of heart.

I'll just list items needed and a pic of my tool rack. Grab whatever you need

• Table Saw
• Power screw drivers
• 36" clamps
• Level
• Flash light
• Flathead & phillips head screw driver
• 1" & 3" corse screws
• IKEA doors & draw fronts of your choice
• Matching edge banding
• Laundry iron
• Utility knife

Little did I know that IKEA discontinued their whole kitchen series back in 2015. Their AKURUM frames, RATIONELL draws, hinge pairs, everything. Their new series only fit SEKTION frames; and I'm in no mood to do another gut out.

For initial assessment, I bought one VEDDINGE wall cabinet door just to see how it fits. IT DOESN'T !

The door holes does fit old hinges, yet frame alignment is at lease .25" off and hits the crown moulding. I needed to drill new holes in between existing ones and secure with 1" corse screws. This was pretty painless.

Using old door as template, line up & drill for your knob or pulls. Clamp the door pairs with old door back line up with new door front to prevent blow outs.

Our 45º wall cabinet has a smaller 21" door that IKEA don't sell anymore. I took the next larger 24" width and shave off remaining. Edge band and cut off excess. Sand smooth with 120 grit. Match handles with new frame holes as previous step.

With my current door style picked. IKEA doesn't sell the 1 door, 1 draw size, so I picked a normal 30" high base door, and cut my own draw front for a recessed/conceal draw instead.

Remove old draw and side rail covers, pop out old draw front. I got some old as-is dresser shelves of the same color, use the old one as template and rip out a new front. Using 1/4 drill bit, measure proper depth and drill matching locking "stub". To allow new draw front, remove L/R draw rails & reattach 1 hole back & 2 holes down. Measure new draw front & cut flush with draw frame, pop back into old draw frame for fitting, then edge band it. New draw front with old frame & rails should slide out smoothly.

No handle is needed, obviously.

For my existing 3 draw base cabinet, I choose to keep everything the same and rip the one new door into 3 and match existing dimensions instead. Just line 'em up, do 2 cuts, drill new holes for their matching handles & draw "anchors". Bottom draw has additional brace bars that you need to remove with pryers. Add some wood fills to door hinge holes if needed. Put back and chk for any rubbing, then edge band as needed.

Add handles, put new draw fronts onto old rail frames,

IKEA just don't sell draws that fit blind corners cabinets anymore! I end up getting the closest 18" MAXIMERA hardware instead. With non-compatible holes. I installed the right side rails first, pop in new draws, and vertically clamp it against counter top. Measure gap distance from frame to left rail; then cut some 2x4 and secure to left frame. Make another draw front and install like others.

No pictures here. Just make sure all doors & draws closes properly., adjust & balance as needed. Cleanup all surfaces for that new look.

This took me on & off... 4 days to replace 11 doors, 6 draw fronts, and moved 3 railing hardwares. My primary reason is that it's occupied right now with loads of junk, and gut out is impossible.

Looking back, I could've bought new railing and draw fronts too. Less work, more money.