The Ultimate Camera RIG With Portable Display

Hi there, and welcome back.

Here's something useful: The Ultimate Camera RIG consists of an external display that is linked to a DSLR camera for the purpose of recording.

The idea was to modify an existing camera tripod so that it could be used as a tabletop camera stand with an integrated, wire-free portable display and its own power supply.

The purpose of the extra portable display is to make the process of producing talking head videos easier. Since the camera I own lacks a fold display, it was difficult to create talking head videos.

Additionally, since the monitor is HDMI compatible, we can use it to join up devices like a PC or Raspberry Pi and utilize it for a script to show slides, which will simplify the entire filming process.

This Instructables is about how this project was built from scratch, so let's get started with the build.

Below are the materials used in this build-

• 3D-printed parts
• Camera Tripod
• Custom PCB (Provided by Seeed Studios)
• IP5306 IC
• 1uF 0805 Package Capacitors
• 2R 1206 Package Resistors
• 1uH Inductor
• JST Connectors
• SMD LED 0805 Package
• Rocker Switch (toggle switch version)
• 7-inch IPS Display
• Battery Pack

The whole project started with first creating the model for the prototype, which included the modified stand, display, display mount, and the camera itself.

Generally, it's advantageous to model every component that will be used in the build before beginning any project.

We had to model the camera tripod in our case first. Since the display was a custom component that we had previously modeled for a different project, I used the pre-existing CAD file.

Whole thing was modeled in Fusion360 and the file is attached for download.

Since cameras typically come in identical sizes, the camera model was obtained from Grabcad.

We modified the model after preparing all the CAD files. Initially, we added a hinge joint between the tripod head and base, creating a moving component that moved the camera back and forth.

We positioned the display next to the camera on the right side and created a platform to hold it in place. The platform also houses the power board and battery pack, which power the display.

We modeled the two elongated stands that are located on the left and right sides of the tripod in order to create the proper balanced body.

It stabilizes and elevates the whole thing.

Following the creation of each component, we exported the STL files and used White PLA with a 0.4mm nozzle, 20% infill, and 0.2mm layer height for 3D printing.

We start first by making the schematic of the power board, which consists of an IP5306 setup.

The IP5306, a power management IC that is commonly used in power bank-related applications where we have a 3.7V Li-ion cell and need to boost its voltage to a stable 5V for XYZ stuff, In our case, we will be using a 5V HDMI display, which will be powered through this power board.

After finalizing the schematic, we prepare a small 25mm x 40mm board on which we place all the components. IP5306 was placed in the middle on the top side, along with all SMD components. The THT components included the JST connectors, which were placed on the bottom side of the board.

For this project, we are using a small PCB, which was provided by Seeed Studio.

The order was placed with a yellow solder mask and a white silkscreen.

The quality was super good considering the rate, which was also pretty low.

Seeed Fusion offers one-stop prototyping for PCB manufacture and PCB assembly, and as a result, they produce superior-quality PCBs and fast-turnkey PCBA within 7 working days.

Discover exclusive savings at Seeed Studio Fusion: Enjoy a generous 20% discount on all PCB & PCBA orders storewide with no minimum purchase required. This limited-time promotion is valid from November 1 to November 30.

• Using a solder paste dispensing syringe, we first apply solder paste to each component pad individually to begin the PCB assembly process.
• Next, we pick and place each component in its location using an ESD tweezer.
• Following pick and place, we lift the PCB and place it on the reflow hotplate, which increases the temperature of the PCB from below to the point at which solder paste begins to melt and components are soldered to their pads.
• JST connectors are added to the bottom side of the board after all SMD components have been reflow soldered, and their pads are soldered from the top side using a standard soldering iron.

The PCB is now assembled.

Before starting the assembly procedure, we test the power board.

We added a Signal Rocker Switch and a 3.7V, 2900 mAh Lithium Ion Cell to the JST connector. When the rocker switch is pressed once, the IP5306 can be turned on, and its indicator LED glows, indicating that the circuit is working.

A multi-meter was then used to measure the output voltage of the IC; it was found to be 5.1V, indicating that the setup had been effective and that the circuit could power the display.

We are using an existing tripod that we purchased from Amazon as the project's base.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00QJWQW6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This tripod was nothing more than a holder that could be moved back and forth using two aluminum rods.

The entire structure was composed of aluminum, including the hefty, robust rods. The setup's primary shortcomings were its poor balance and inability to remain in place when the camera was installed.

We used this tripod in the revised design and made a few adjustments to the holder and the stand portion, which improved the entire thing and produced a really solid, well-balanced DSLR stand.

We begin the tripod assembly procedure by taking off the tripod head section and fastening the 3D-printed joint to it with four M4 bolts.

The entire procedure took less than a minute, and the result was a modified head section with a joint on the back side that increases its height and

The other hinge joint, which will support the previously constructed tripod assembly, is then added to the stand's base plate.

There is a single M4 bolt in the center that holds it in place. We only need to tighten the bolt to secure the 3D-printed part in place because the base plate already has threads for an M4 bolt put into it.

The base and head assembly are joined by joining them together and tightening the M5 bolt using a long bolt, a few washers, and an M5 nut.

The camera can now tilt back and forth thanks to this additional 3D-printed component, which will be useful for positioning.

• Now we prepare the stand assembly, which begins with adding a 3D-printed part to join the two rods together; this element will slide into the two rods and requires no screws or bolts, instead being pressure-fitted in place.
• Next, we install the left and right side stands and fasten them with four M3 bolts.
• We put the display base on one side and connected it to the left-side stand.

• To begin assembling the display holder, use a soldering iron to connect positive and negative wires to the power board's 5V output.
• Next, we placed the switch, DC Jack, battery, and power board into the display base and connected the JST connectors of the switch, battery, and charging DC Jack to the JST connector of the power board.
• By toggling the rocker switch, the indicator LED on the power board lights up, indicating that this setup is operational.
• We use a multimeter to measure the output voltage to ensure that we are getting 5 volts.
• Next, we attached a lid to the back side and secured it with four M2 screws.
• Finally, we use three M3 screws to secure the display holder to the top of the base.

We're using a 7-inch HDMI monitor salvaged from a previous project for the display.

https://www.instructables.com/Sandwitch-Dot-IO-Display-Board/

• We're also reusing the prior project's display holder PCB and 3D-printed component. With four M3 PCB standoffs, the Display Holder PCB is mounted on the rear side of the display.
• The display's positive and negative wires are then soldered to the display holder PCB's pads.
• After soldering the wires, we use an M4 nut and bolt to connect the display to the display base.
• Finally, we soldered positive and negative 5V wires from the display base to the back side of the display, where we soldered the positive and negative wires of the display.
• We press the rocker switch, and the display turns on, indicating that this configuration was successful. We now need to combine this arrangement with the tripod setup.

• We finished the setup by attaching the display base to the tripod assembly.
• We attached the camera to the tripod head section with the tripod's included slider.
• Next, we connected the display to the camera via an HDMI cable and turned on both the camera and the display.

The end result of this tiny build is a camera setup that is ideal for recording talking head videos thanks to the front-facing portable display.

The camera is connected to the display via HDMI cable, and the display is powered by a custom board constructed from scratch and based on an IP5306 IC.

Leave a comment if you need any help regarding this project. This is it for today folks.

Thanks to Seeed Studio for supporting this project.

You guys can check them out if you need great PCB and stencil service for less cost and great quality.

And I'll be back with a new project pretty soon!