The Last of Us Game Clicker Mask
by cackled in Craft > Costumes & Cosplay
1630 Views, 5 Favorites, 0 Comments
The Last of Us Game Clicker Mask
This tutorial is for a game-based Clicker mask. This was the first one I made and have since improved. I'll add notes to the parts I would do differently.
Supplies
Plastic mask
Painter's tape
Flexible tape measure
Clay/cosplay foam (michaels or Hobby lobby)
Plastidip
Various color paints
Blood paint
Acrylic teeth (amazon)
White or off white yarn
E6000 Translucent glue
Fishing line or clear bead thread
Leather straps
Velcro strips
Painter's tape
Flexible tape measure
Clay/cosplay foam (michaels or Hobby lobby)
Plastidip
Various color paints
Blood paint
Acrylic teeth (amazon)
White or off white yarn
E6000 Translucent glue
Fishing line or clear bead thread
Leather straps
Velcro strips
Starting the Mask
Materials: plastic mask, flexible tape measure/string, Painter's tape
1. Using the tape measure or string, measure the circumference of your head. Blow up the balloon to the same measurement.
Note: I would add an inch or so to the measurement as the mask will shrink slightly and might not fit.
2. Start taping the balloon to the mask. The object here is to create a thick layer of tape for the foam clay to sit on/adhere to. You need a lot of tape for this step. I usually tape halfway down the balloon and trim later.
Note: my balloon popped on its own, but if yours doesn't, just pop it when you are through taping
3. Paper mache the mask and tape: I cut up strips of paper, dipped them in glue, and stuck them to the mask.
Note: I honestly don't know if this step is necessary. It might add something for the clay to grip to and additional strength to the tape layer. I didn't do this step on my most recent mask and didn't have any trouble.
Correction: I did not add tape to the cheeks for this mask. My cheeks showed because the mask was too narrow. If you do want your cheeks covered, place tape on the mask cheek and extend to your cheek. Continue to do this until you have a thick layer of tape. You'll have to peel the tape off your cheeks, but mine came off without hurting my skin.
1. Using the tape measure or string, measure the circumference of your head. Blow up the balloon to the same measurement.
Note: I would add an inch or so to the measurement as the mask will shrink slightly and might not fit.
2. Start taping the balloon to the mask. The object here is to create a thick layer of tape for the foam clay to sit on/adhere to. You need a lot of tape for this step. I usually tape halfway down the balloon and trim later.
Note: my balloon popped on its own, but if yours doesn't, just pop it when you are through taping
3. Paper mache the mask and tape: I cut up strips of paper, dipped them in glue, and stuck them to the mask.
Note: I honestly don't know if this step is necessary. It might add something for the clay to grip to and additional strength to the tape layer. I didn't do this step on my most recent mask and didn't have any trouble.
Correction: I did not add tape to the cheeks for this mask. My cheeks showed because the mask was too narrow. If you do want your cheeks covered, place tape on the mask cheek and extend to your cheek. Continue to do this until you have a thick layer of tape. You'll have to peel the tape off your cheeks, but mine came off without hurting my skin.
Decorating the Mask
Materials: clay/cosplay foam
1. This step is subjective and up to you. Clay foam is versatile and can be made into many mushroom shapes, folds, and squiggles. I started by building close to the center of the mask and moving outward, to mimic the split skull that Clickers have.
Correction: I did not use any internal support for this mask build! If you want higher shapes than don't flop, I would recommend using a stiff wire to form shapes
1. This step is subjective and up to you. Clay foam is versatile and can be made into many mushroom shapes, folds, and squiggles. I started by building close to the center of the mask and moving outward, to mimic the split skull that Clickers have.
Correction: I did not use any internal support for this mask build! If you want higher shapes than don't flop, I would recommend using a stiff wire to form shapes
The Mouth and Gums
Materials: clay foam, acrylic teeth
1. Form the gums. I did this by plopping on a big chunk of foam clay then molding it into a rectangle shape. I used the handle of a paintbrush to make a divot in between the teeth by gently rolling it between where the tooth root protrudes. This makes the clay pop up in the middle but curve down on the sides, like gums.
2. Place acrylic teeth where you want them to go in the gums. Don't leave them there! This is to mark where the teeth will go later and to make sure they fit.
Correction: I did not do a bottom gum on this mask, just inserted the teeth right into the bottom lip. The second pic is another mask that does have bottom gums.
1. Form the gums. I did this by plopping on a big chunk of foam clay then molding it into a rectangle shape. I used the handle of a paintbrush to make a divot in between the teeth by gently rolling it between where the tooth root protrudes. This makes the clay pop up in the middle but curve down on the sides, like gums.
2. Place acrylic teeth where you want them to go in the gums. Don't leave them there! This is to mark where the teeth will go later and to make sure they fit.
Correction: I did not do a bottom gum on this mask, just inserted the teeth right into the bottom lip. The second pic is another mask that does have bottom gums.
Priming With Plastidip
Materials: white plastidip
1. Make sure to follow the directions on the can! I did 4-5 layers in between drying times.
Note: Priming gives the paint something to stick to and adds protection to your work. There are many substances you can use to prime, but after researching, I chose plastidip.
1. Make sure to follow the directions on the can! I did 4-5 layers in between drying times.
Note: Priming gives the paint something to stick to and adds protection to your work. There are many substances you can use to prime, but after researching, I chose plastidip.
Painting
Materials: paint
1. This step is up to your artistic preference! I painted an off-white base coat to start then used a sponge to dapple on color, especially at the ends of the mushroom shapes.
2. I painted the center crack with several layers of black then used a sponge to to extend the black paint outwards.
1. This step is up to your artistic preference! I painted an off-white base coat to start then used a sponge to dapple on color, especially at the ends of the mushroom shapes.
2. I painted the center crack with several layers of black then used a sponge to to extend the black paint outwards.
Teeth and Saliva
Materials: acrylic teeth, E6000 transparent glue, fishing line/clear bead thread
1. Using E6000 or any strong transparent glue, glue in the teeth.
2. To make the saliva, place a dab of glue at the top of the gums or behind a tooth. Take a small length of fishing line or transparent bead wire and stick it in the glue dab. Drip E6000 glue down the line: E6000 is viscous enough that it will slowly drip down the line, giving it that saliva look.
1. Using E6000 or any strong transparent glue, glue in the teeth.
2. To make the saliva, place a dab of glue at the top of the gums or behind a tooth. Take a small length of fishing line or transparent bead wire and stick it in the glue dab. Drip E6000 glue down the line: E6000 is viscous enough that it will slowly drip down the line, giving it that saliva look.
Blood
Materials: red paint, Citadel color technical blood for the blood god
1. Add blood to your liking! The Citadel Color blood is amazing at looking like wet blood. You can layer it, drip it, smudge it, anything you want to achieve that gorey look.
1. Add blood to your liking! The Citadel Color blood is amazing at looking like wet blood. You can layer it, drip it, smudge it, anything you want to achieve that gorey look.
Cheeks
Materials: white yarn, paint
1. This step mimics the white, hairy looking mycelium that appears on the Clickers' skin. Form any bumps/blemishes with foam clay.
2. Paint the skin the desired color.
3. Pull the yarn strands apart to desired thick/thinness like in pic 2. Glue to the cheeks.
1. This step mimics the white, hairy looking mycelium that appears on the Clickers' skin. Form any bumps/blemishes with foam clay.
2. Paint the skin the desired color.
3. Pull the yarn strands apart to desired thick/thinness like in pic 2. Glue to the cheeks.
Securing the Mask
Materials: leather strap, velcro strips
I didn't take pics of this step, so I'm going to use pics from another mask. The technique is the same. I also couldn't find velcro strips at the store, so used command hook strips instead.
1. Glue the velcro strip to the inside of the end one leather strap, and on the outside of the end of the second velcro strip. This way you can press them together to stick.
2. Use clothes pins to apply pressure to the leather while the glue dries. This ensures the velcro will stay glued to the leather.
3. Glue a leather strip to the temple area inside the mask on both sides. Use clothes pins again to ensure maximum adherence.
4. The two ends with velcro on them should meet behind your head and stick.
Note: you could use string/rope to do this step. Use a hole punch to make holes in the temple of your mask. Thread the string through the holes and tie behind the head. You could also use buttons/snaps! I don't know how to install a button on to a leather strap, which is why I didn't go this route, but it seems like it would work.
I didn't take pics of this step, so I'm going to use pics from another mask. The technique is the same. I also couldn't find velcro strips at the store, so used command hook strips instead.
1. Glue the velcro strip to the inside of the end one leather strap, and on the outside of the end of the second velcro strip. This way you can press them together to stick.
2. Use clothes pins to apply pressure to the leather while the glue dries. This ensures the velcro will stay glued to the leather.
3. Glue a leather strip to the temple area inside the mask on both sides. Use clothes pins again to ensure maximum adherence.
4. The two ends with velcro on them should meet behind your head and stick.
Note: you could use string/rope to do this step. Use a hole punch to make holes in the temple of your mask. Thread the string through the holes and tie behind the head. You could also use buttons/snaps! I don't know how to install a button on to a leather strap, which is why I didn't go this route, but it seems like it would work.
Gloss
Materials: Modpodge super high shine clear acrylic sealer
Note: I didn't use gloss on this mask, but if you want a shiny, wet look, I would recommend modpodge super high shine clear acrylic sealer.
1. Follow the directions on the bottle. I did two coats with a drying time of 24 hr in between.
Note: I didn't use gloss on this mask, but if you want a shiny, wet look, I would recommend modpodge super high shine clear acrylic sealer.
1. Follow the directions on the bottle. I did two coats with a drying time of 24 hr in between.