T-Soaker Anti-Dunk Tank

The T-Soaker is a revolutionary new way to have fun. The basic function of the T-Soaker is the same as a traditional dunk tank, but upside down. Some benefits include only using 2 gallons of water per use ,compared to the 500 gallons a traditional dunk tank uses, better portability than a regular tank, and the overall stylish appearance as a school, carnival or backyard game. The T-Soaker is strictly for outdoor use!

This school spirited game is sure to bring joy to all who use it, be it in your pool, school, driveway or backyard.

Initial supplies:

1. 2x4 planks

2. large plywood sheet

3. 2" screws and screwdriver

4. Hand saw or band saw for cutting 2x4s and plywood

5. Pressurized toilet tank with lever

6. Small electric solenoid

Step 1: Have an initial idea for the design and rough sketches of what your plan will be (Image #1).

Step 2: Start your build! Using a selection of 2x4s, you can begin to build the frame of the "main" structure. (The main structure is the so-called "capsule" of the soaker and the middle portion of the "top horizontal frame"). Start by creating a square, 3ft. by 3ft. , and screw in 2 - 2" nails into each corner.

Step 3: After creating a square (Image #2), repeat the process for a second full square, using the same materials.

Step 4: Acquire standard 4 - 2x4s. Screw in the long 2x4s into the corner of one of your squares using 4 screws (Image #3, #4, #5). Make sure to keep the corners flush with each other.

Step 5: Repeat step 4 for the other 3 corners (Turning the frame 90* may be required for easier drilling). You will end up with a large rectangle. (Image #6 and Image#7).

We purchased an Autoloc solenoid roughly 5cm in diameter. Due to a problem with the solenoid we had to create a so-called "solenoid hat" to fix the pro!blem.

Step 1: Get a thin piece of metal and cut a roughly 1" strip in width and 5" strip in length

Step 2: Mark the piece of metal for bend marks and bend the piece at 90* angles creating an arch shape.

Step 3: After bending the piece, it should be about 2 1/2" in width (covering the middle circle of the solenoid ).

Step 4: Mark the piece of metal again on both "legs" for the next two bends. Bend the metal to create a top hat looking shape. The piece should be about 1 1/2" in height by this time.

Step 5: Mark center-line holes on the "feet" and top of the metal piece. The hole on top should be able to be wide enough to let the solenoid arm to pass through it. The side holes should be the same diameter as the solenoid screw holes.

Step 6: Take a breather, have a Coke.

Step 7: Drill out the three holes. If the holes are too small, using a shaving tool or use a larger drill bit.

Ste 8: Bask in the glory of your work

Step 1: Purchase or find a large piece of plywood, this plywood must be thick enough to hold the toilet tank and two gallons of water.

Step 2: Measure the outline of the frame and recreate it onto the plywood. Then cut it out (Image #3).

Step 3: Slide the cut out piece on the top of the frame.

Step 4: Screw in the plywood on each corner, firmly connecting the roof piece to the main frame

Step 5: Find a seat and determine were the hole should be cut out for the bottom of the toilet tank. This hole should not be in the center if the seat is in the middle of the frame; the head will be around 5" farther back.

Step 6: Cut out the hole for the bottom of the toilet tank and two smaller holes on either side to slide the metal pieces through the wood, then secure two nuts to hold it in place. (These pieces of metal may stick out, either cover them or cut them off after securing the tank)

Step 1: Bolt the solenoid to one of the vertical pieces of wood near the roof. (Bolt it in on the side of the toilet tanks arm)(Image #1)

Step 2: Bolt both pulleys to a diagonal piece of wood that goes over the toilet tank arm. (Image #3)

Step 3: The pulleys need to be bolt to be parallel with the diagonal arm (Image #2).

Step 4: Cut a piece of string so that it is fairly tight when connected to both the toilet tank arm and the solenoid.

Step 5: On either side of the overhang, screw in a piece of wood, still making sure it is flush with the structure. (Image #5).

Step 1: Measure the top structure in width and height. Then cut out the same dimensions onto thin plywood. (Image #1)

Step 2: Attach the plywood sheets onto the top structure. (Image #2)

Step 3: After completing the top structure, apply some sort of sealant to the bottom floor. (Image #3)

Step 4: Using multiple layers of paint, cover the top structure first, then the vertical supports, and lastly the floor. (Images #4-5)