Starbucks Tumbler Stand - Grant Cole JME 1414

This is a stand that is used to store Starbucks Tumblers. I made this design because I currently have no effective way of storing them. Above is a picture of a large amount of tumblers being stored in a tub. This is problematic as the tumblers rub together and can cause wear on each other. These tumblers are collectors items and should be stored in a way that protects them from accidentally being pushed off of the stand and falling, as well as putting them on display. I also used this project to gain experience with 3D printing. This design ensures that the tumblers cannot be slid off of the place that they are being stored. Additionally this design can be expanded to hold more tumblers if needed.

Here is a Bill of materials for the stand:

All of the 3D printed parts and dowels will be used. You only need 44 wood screws, but it is recommended to get more as some may strip.

This is the link to a thing on Thingiverse with the STL files for the 3d printed parts:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6590116

In addition to these materials, you will need the following tools:

Tape Measurer

Chop Saw

Power Drill

3/32 Drill Bit

Phillips Head Bit or Screwdriver

Needle Nose Pliers

Metal Pick with Hooked End

Building The Stand At Full Size

This stand can be built at a larger scale as well. If you use as much of the 48" dowel as possible for each of the side pieces, and make two additional base frames, replacing the 9 1/4" dowel with a 20 1/4" dowel for one, and a 31 1/4" dowel for the other, your row size will increase to 9 tumblers per row. The top frame will hold 2 rows, the middle frame will hold 4 rows, and the bottom frame will hold 6 rows. If you built this design at full size it will hold 108 tumblers. A rough estimate for the full scale design is $125 this design is similar in price to buying a Kallax Shelving unit from Ikea for $130, but provides greater protection for the tumblers and displays them more prominently as it is open from all sides.

Go to the Thingiverse link provided in the materials page and download the required STL files. Print 2 each of the Top Part, Leg Piece 1 & 2, and the Middle Support. Print 8 of the trays. I attached a picture with the settings I used in Cura to print my parts. Supports are necessary when printing these parts to maintain dimensional accuracy. If you do not support these pieces they will droop in the middle resulting in ovular holes. The only thing I changed part to part is print the trays at 15% infill. Once your parts are printed the supports need to be removed. I found that using a combination of a metal pick that is hooked and needle nose pliers is best for removing the supports.

Cut the 5 1in dia. by 48" wooden dowels to size by measuring the desired length with a tape measurer, and then cutting with the chop saw. You need 7 at 24", 2 at 9 1/4" and 1 at 27 1/4". If there are any splinters of wood left on the ends of the dowels like in the second picture it is necessary to remove them. This can be achieved with a knife, or sand paper.

Begin by taking each of the Leg Piece 1 and 2 and placing them opposite each other on 2 of the 24" dowels. When you do this step ensure the the angled tops of the leg pieces are facing inwards, and not towards the dowels. If the parts are having difficulty going together you can gently tap them on the ground to get them to seat correctly. Be careful to not apply too much force or the 3D printed parts may break. Next place the middle supports on each end of another one of the 24" dowels. Insert the 9 1/4" dowels into the open ends of one of the two side pieces you have already constructed. Slide the middle piece onto the two 9 1/4" dowels. Finally, place the other side piece onto the 9 1/4" dowels. You will have to tap the whole structure on the ground to ensure that the two side pieces are fully onto the dowels.

Now that the base of the frame is assembled, the screw locations must be pre drilled. In order to make sure the middle support is in the correct place, take 4 of your trays, and place them on each side of the frame connected to the middle support and the sides as shown in the picture. Next take your 3/32 drill and pre drill the holes on the top of the frame. You only need to drill these holes about 1" deep. Make sure that you do not accidentally drill all the way through the dowel and into the 3D printed part as this can harm the integrity of the parts. If you do not pre drill these holes the screws will strip. There are 12 holes on the top side and bottom side of the part. I boxed each of these locations on the image above. Finally insert 12 screws into your pre drilled holes. Repeat this step for the bottom side of the base frame. You do not need to use the trays as the screws from the other side will hold all parts in place.

First, assemble the top piece by inserting the 27 1/4" dowel into the two top pieces, ensuring that the bottoms of the 3d printed parts are on the outside. Then take the last 4 24" dowels and insert one each into each of the angle pieces. place the top piece onto the wooden dowels coming out of the top piece. You will need to tap this part in order to get the pieces to connect properly. Be very careful doing this as these pieces are the most likely to break from doing this.

There are 2 holes on each of the angle pieces and 6 holes on each of the top pieces for a total of 14 holes that need to be pre drilled. Drill each of these holes with the 3/32 drill only going about 1" deep. Insert the final wood screws.

Place the trays onto the outside and middle wooden dowels of the base frame. It does not matter if you place the trays onto the frame with the two mounting points or the single mounting point in front.

Your stand is now complete! I loaded the stand up with tumblers and they all fit fine. Though this stand does not protect the tumblers from aggressive bumps, it reduces the risk of them sliding off of it while you are reaching for another one of the tumblers.