Simple Magnetic Camera Pod From Indicator Base

by Nuonaton in Circuits > Cameras

1550 Views, 17 Favorites, 0 Comments

Simple Magnetic Camera Pod From Indicator Base

temp_-938244083.jpg

I have an unused cheap indicator base and since I'm tired of trying to demonstrate steps whilst holding my phone (Dangerous Much?) I decided that the magnetic base would make a good holder for my GoPro. I'm not bringing my Nice DSLR out into my dusty shop.

I've entered this into the Reuse contest so if you like it please vote :)

GATHER THY TOOLS!

temp_-1294308454.jpg
temp_-1678355194.jpg

I used my wood lathe for the majority of drilling but you can use a vise. Be sure to center punch where you want your hole and drill a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit though.
you'll need:

.201 drill bit (that's a #7)

1/4 20 tap

Tap wrench

1/4 20 threaded brass bolt (I had a piece in my parts bin so I'm not sure where you'd get it)

Drill (Or lathe.)

Torch (Optional1)

Flux (Optional2)

Solder (Optional3) (Doesn't really matter what kind, this is just to help keep the bolt from coming out)

(OPTIONAL 1, 2 and 3 replacement!) You can use a permanent threadlocker in place of these if your thread fit is good.

indicator base rod. TAKE THIS OFF THE MAGNETIC PART! Heat+Magnets=useless.

Holding Your Rod

temp_-1708942862.jpg
temp_1721826365.jpg

This is fairly straight forward with a lathe. Chuck up on the rod, file off the chrome crud and drill yout pilot. I just used a #2 centerdrill.

Now drill your .201 (#7) hole, no coolant was necessary for me, I used a slow feed and a brand new bit and it cut very easily. Cheap indicator holders' rods are not hardened. (Nor concentric apparently)

and deburr the hole

Tapping the Hole

temp_1258662147.jpg
temp_-494597342.jpg
temp_-806284462.jpg

Simple and straight forward again. Start your tap in the hole (Easier with a tap follower) and turn a full revolution and then back up half. This will break the chips and keep your tap from breaking. It's pretty important so don't forget to break the chips!

I used a plug tap here, but you can use a taper tap.

Cut the Threaded Rod

temp_-2016795256.jpg
temp_-1086862372.jpg
temp_1139441902.jpg
temp_-1940405039.jpg
temp_-418803303.jpg

I used 1/4 20 threaded brass rod. I don't know where it came from.

Cut it about 3/8 inches longer than you need and file the burrs off the end. I did this in my lath, but you could just as easily chuck it into your drill and drag a file (Or sandpaper) across it whilst rotating it.

Chamfer the edges slightly so there are NO SHARP EDGES!!!

Soldering Down

temp_-1127372971.jpg
temp_2142130729.jpg
temp_-1681034695.jpg
temp_-305581795.jpg
temp_1389978848.jpg
temp_1862488039.jpg

You can skip this step if you have permanent locktite on hand (The red stuff)

Apply a little flux on your brass and insert it into the threaded hole as far as you'd like it to go. (Might want to trial this before applying flux so you can file some more away if needed.)

Heat ONLY the brass with your torch and apply solder all the way around.

The goal here is to mound it up a little and make a nice transition from the rod to the threads.

Let your solder job cool completely and then clean up any flux. ( A little acetone or turpentine cleans it right off)

Stick It to Stuff and Make More Projects!

temp_2062642325.jpg
temp_-320643899.jpg
temp_1690045871.jpg

Yeah... that's it.

Now I can shoot relatively hands free and avoid the nasty pictures I usually have to delete.

Thanks for reading, I hope this helps you all shoot more projects!