SPH 3D Printer (5mm MDF Frame)

The Goal of this Instructable is to show you how to assemble the SPH 3D Printer. The build will likely take two days, one day to lasercut/3D Print frame components as well as prepare electronics and another to actually assemble the printer.

The Printer has a build area of approximately 130x160x130.

Prerequisites:

Machine introductions for the Lasercutter and FDM 3D printers.

A number of items will need to be 3D printed or lasercut, you can download them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6776797

Supplies needed from the SPH:

All supplies listed on the Memo List, if they arent available you could probably order the same items from an external supplier

-one swiss plug power cable (you dont have to buy it if you can scavenge it from some old electronics)

-Ferrules from the SPH shop, will depend on what type of PSU you have

-Roughly 140 of M3 12mm screws

-Roughly 140 of M3 hex or square nuts

-Various other screws from SPH

-Zip Ties from SPH

If you use 12V electronics, which is not recommended for anything except PLA, you can purchase some additional things from the SPH, namely:

Fans, both axial

PSU

Otherwise, to be purchased externally (probably aliexpress, I added the links of what I ordered):

2x Axial Fan 24v 40x40mm (one for the extruder cooling, one for part cooling)

Titan Extruder (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004941825415.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.ad41586amRTgYU)

E3D V5/6 Hotend (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004095225942.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.ad41586amRTgYU)

Electronics Mainboard (I used the MKS Gen l v1.0) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005038247203.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.ad41586amRTgYU)

Screen with SD Card slot (optional but recommended, otherwise you have to control it from your pc or a raspberry PI, I used the Makerbase MKS mini12864 v3 ) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004983625050.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.ad41586amRTgYU)

Heatbed (200x200mm) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004110358095.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.ad41586amRTgYU)

PSU 24V 380W (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002843829663.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.46.ad41586amRTgYU)

BLTouch sensor (Optional but recommended) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003664312458.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.360aQAXUQAXU7h&algo_pvid=d073a292-f5a4-49b3-bb7c-c459c89fcf3c&algo_exp_id=d073a292-f5a4-49b3-bb7c-c459c89fcf3c-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CHF%216.49%216.49%21%21%217.51%217.51%21%4021039f3e17274295357002885e46c7%2112000026707452613%21sea%21CH%214320328804%21X&curPageLogUid=53T1px6Xczp2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A)

Smooth rod 8mm diameter, at least 360 mm long (if its longer you can cut it down with the metal bandsaw, you only need to cut two down to 360mm, the other four are okay at 400mm or even longer) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32332798910.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.36.ad41586amRTgYU)

300mm Leadscrew (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001332632943.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.21.ad41586amRTgYU)

Note: For your heatbed you may wish to purchase a magnetic plate so that you can easily remove prints, make sure you order one with a magnetic base: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249598963.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.642150a4sUmIHs&algo_pvid=e87df69b-26ad-4268-ac2b-a524db035692&algo_exp_id=e87df69b-26ad-4268-ac2b-a524db035692-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CHF%2127.42%2119.19%21%21%21222.05%21155.43%21%40211b80c217274301688957368e8467%2112000036466716174%21sea%21CH%214320328804%21X&curPageLogUid=d6izTnDF4BTv&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

The Parts are available as .3mf files so that supports aren't generated inside of places where they shouldn't be and can't be removed. Generally speaking try to print parts with PETG, however some of the smaller parts (and the large Y-Carriage part) can be printed with PLA without issue.

Note for the large carriage: It fits on the build plate, just turn off the skirt.

Use the Lasercutter and the 5mm MDF plates to cut the frame. Try make the plate be as flat as possible when cutting it.

You need to ensure that any cable used for heating or high power application, has a metal ferrule on it.

To attach a metal ferrule simply slide it over the exposed cable and crimp it using the crimper tool.

You should also use this type of connection when connecting the Power supply to your electronics board, depending on the PSU, the Y-shaped or O-shaped ferrules may be optimal.

You also have to attach ferrules to the swiss power plug, so cut off the non-plug end and attach ferrules to it (pic 3).

Fans and Thermistors generally have one of the two connections shown above. If they dont initially come with one of those I recommend buying dupont female-female connection cables and soldering them onto the end. Length of cables should be about 800-1000mm.

If you use the default endstop switches, you will have to solder a cable onto the pins labelled NC and C (or sometimes COM). The cable length has to be about 800-1000mm.

If your build plate did not come with a nice connector, you may have to solder wires directly onto the plate. When soldering to a non wire surface such as the connecting area on a build plate you have to make sure that the area you are connecting to is warm as well, as such you have to use the soldering wire to heat both the wire and the attaching area.

In order to connect both Z-Axis steppers to only one driver you will need to make a connector as shown in the picture. It is made up of four female dupont cables and eight male cables, all soldered together.

Assemble the frame as shown in picture 1 and ensure that the side with the holes are oriented so that the spine will be on the outside of the frame. Picture two shows the correct orientation. Screw assembly can be done as shown in picture three, simply insert the square or hex nut into the slot and insert the screw through the hole. For this process always use M3 16mm screws.

Insert the belt into the holder (Green, picture 1) then screw the holder into the Bed-Carriage. Be sure to use M3 Lock nylock nuts.

Place the linear bearings within the guides (picture 2 and 3) and then insert zip-ties. Before tightening the zip ties ensure a rod is placed through the bearings. This ensures that they are aligned. Do this for both sides, you can then remove the rods.

Finally screw on the MDF Plate (Picture 4). You will need M4 25mm Screws and Nylock nuts.

Screw the Y-Axis-Idler holder to the corresponding plate, regular screws work.

Then, screw on the plate as shown in picture 2.

Screw in the Stepper motor and the endstop as shown in picture 3, 4 and 5. Also mount the pulley on the shaft of the motor. You will need M2 Screws for the endstop, and M3 8mm screws for the stepper.

Then, repeat steps 1 and 2, so you reach the state shown in picture 6.

On one side, screw in the Nema together with the part to hold the endstop. You don't actually have to put the endstop on yet.

Screw in the holder for the 8mm rods as well, be sure to use lock nuts.

Tape in nuts on all connection points as shown in image 4 and 5. This is so that they are already in place later when access is limited. Tape can be added first and then the nut from the other side. Image 6 shows one completed connection.

Insert the Zip Ties into the slots available for them, then insert linear bearings.

Insert a smooth rod before fully tightening zip ties

Screw in the leadscrew, use nylock nuts and ensure the top of the screw is on the bottom of the part (image 2)

Screw in the Idler pulled as shown in image 3, don't forget the small 3D-Printed (shown in green) washer.

Place the linear bearings within the guides (picture 1) and then insert zip-ties. Before tightening the zip ties ensure a rod is placed through the bearings. This ensures that they are aligned. Do this for both sides, you can then remove the rods.

Assemble the X-Active part the same way as the X-Idler:

Insert the Zip Ties into the slots available for them, then insert linear bearings.

Insert a smooth rod before fully tightening zip ties

Screw in the leadscrew, use nylock nuts and ensure the head of the screw is on the bottom of the part (image 2)

Screw in the endstop as shown in pictures 3 and 4.

ENDSTOP ORIENTATION IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. Ensure the lever points "Up".

If the endstop is still too far away from the carriage (you will notice during calibration), attach a blob of glue using a hot glue gun to the top of it (the curved part).

Use a coupler to attach the threaded rod. Ensure that one of the screws of the coupler connects to the flat part of the NEMA 17's shaft.

Ensure that there is a gap within the coupler between the shaft of the motor and the threaded rod. This is so the coupler retains its function as a spring.

Do not overtighten, you may damage the coupler.

Screw on the X-active part onto the Z-Base with the endstop, then insert the smooth rod. Do the same with the idle part.

Insert the smooth rods into the E-Carriage, and then place it in between both Z-Pillars. Insert Zip Ties into the appropriate slots and only slightly tighten them.

IMPORTANT: The side of the E-Carriage with the slot in it must face the same direction as the Endstop.

Put the assembly intot the slots of the frame as shown. Ensure that the side of the frames with holes down the side is on the same side as the idler. (as in picture 2).

Straightness currently isn't required.

The connector for the top plate should be screwed on on both sides of the top MDF plate.

The entire plate must then be pushed down onto the smooth rods. The top plate should then be slid into the slots assigned for it in the frame. The end alignment should look like picture 3.

Add the second frame and check to see if it fits well.

If it does, add screws and tighten them.

Start with the screws on the base of the Z-Axis where the stepper motors are housed, they are the trickiest.

Once you are done, tighten the Z-Axis zip ties

Level out the Z-Axis, to do this:

-Take an object (in the picture it is the holder for the spool) and set it underneath one carriage

-Screw the carriage down until it rests on the object

-Repeat for the other side

Finally, tighten the rods of the X-Carriage (pic 2)

Then, tighten the rods of the E-Carriage (pic 3)

Unscrew the bottom left screw of the X-Axis stepper.

Then complete the loop with the belt, and attach it to the E-Carriage. You will need to push the belt into the grooves as in pic 2. Use a small screwdriver or allen key for this.

You now have to tighten the belt. This is done over multiple steps:

1. First tilt the stepper motor back to its normal position, this should strain the belt a little
2. Check to see if the belt is tight enough, it shouldnt slag under its own weight, but you should be able to pinch it together
3. If it isnt tight enough, release the motor, then remove the belt from the E-Carriage on one side and push it in one tooth further.
4. Repeat all steps until the belt is tight. Then attach the third and fourth screws to the stepper.

There is a much better explanation of this process on the prusa website: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#30688 Steps 49 and 50

Screw the fans into the respective slots. You dont need a nut for these, simply screw directly into the plastic.

These fans are: Part cooling fan (large one), Extruder cooling fan (small one, purple). A small fan will also work for the part cooling fan, it may even be more optimal.

Assemble the titan extruder. The site where you ordered it from should have full installation instructions, if not, you can find some here: https://thefilamentfeed.com/e3d-titan-extruder-assembly-tutorial/

Note: Your extruder may differ from ones displayed in instructions if you ordered it on aliexpress

Mount the assembled titan extruder onto the platform. Use M5 screws and M5 lock nuts. As long as you connect three screws with one on either side it will work.

Attach the fan shroud with the fan on it (purple part in picture 2)

Insert m3 nuts into the slots as shown in picture one.

Insert the lock nuts into the slots on the extruder. In theory they should barely hold in place around the holes for them. You need only three screws (as long as not all of them are the bottom ones) in for it to work. If you really struggle with this step either glue the nuts into place or jam them in place with cut off ends of zip ties.

Attach the extruder platform to the carriage. Attach the platform with the screws. Ideally 4-5 should connect but three screws in is sufficient.

Attach the Y-Axis panels as shown, orientation doesn't matter.

Some areas are tricky to reach, you may want to use pliers for this (pic 2)

Add the already assembled Y-Axis panels

DO NOT screw them in yet.

Insert the build plate together with the rods (pic 2).

Ensure that the belt is looped into both the stepper and the idler side. Install the idler as shown. Unlike with the X-Axis this side can be tightened further later. Simply make sure that you install it while the idler isnt close to the wall (pic 2 shows the correct location)

Then tighten the zip ties holding down the rods.

After this, add the screw to the panels and tighten them. (as in pic 3)

Prepare the heated build plate as shown in picture 1.

Put it onto the Y-Axis and attach all four sides. This can be a bit tricky, attach them one screw at a time. Once you have attached the first one, do one of the neighbouring ones, not the diagonal, next.

In the end, each side should look like picture 3.

If you didnt yet attach the endstop to the Z-base, do so now.

Attach the jumpers to the slots before inserting the Stepper drivers (picture 1)

Attach the electronic board holder, use the 3D printed spacers between it and the top of the printer, then attach the electronics plate to the holder.

Now you can start attaching cables to the electronics board, if you are using a board that isnt a Makerbase MKS Gen L V 1.0 board then follow the instructions of the board manufacturer. Otherwise the wiring guide is in the picture.

You dont have to, but I would recommend getting a BLTouch sensor for the printer. There is space for it on the default extruder

For wiring I recommend following the guide from the manufacturer

Use the arm (in the picture its a pencil but it follows the same principle) to hold out the cables which connect to the extruder carriage.

You can also install the filament holder as shown in the picture.

Download Arduino IDE ( https://www.arduino.cc/en/software ) and open Marlin in the attached folder (depending on the display you use you may need to install some Arduino libraries, for my display I needed: U8glib-HAL, U8g2, AdaFruit Neopixel, AdaFruit DMA neopixel Library and Adafreuit circuit playground).

Select the board type in Arduino (AT MEGA 2560) and then connect the board to your pc and upload. This may take a while.

You can also configure the software yourself, which is a fun exercise and will help you understand your printer better.

Before doing this step, ensure that the motors move in the correct direction (moving positive means moving away from the endstop)

Also, ensure that the endstops actually work, you can use a programm like RepetierHost to connect to your printer and control it directly (without a display). Typing the command M119 into the terminal will tell you if the endstops are triggered or not, use this to test if they work.

You will need to calibrate your printer, I recommend going through the https://teachingtechyt.github.io/ to properly calibrate the printer.

Depending on the strenght of your part cooling fan, it may cool your hotend too much, causing the print to fail. If this happens, attach a piece of tape to the end of the fan duct to block some of the airflow.

Set the initial size of the printbed to x 200, y 160 z 200, you can fine tune this later.

You will have to add the line: "M140 S0 ; turn off bed temp " in the custom end gcode (depending on slicer, just make sure its there, otherwise the heated bed will not turn off after a print)

If you are also using BLtouch, add: "G29; Bed level" to the start gcode