Replace Individual Wood Floor Boards, Also How to Make Secret Nooks Under Your Floor.

I'll walk you through how to replace individual bad boards, no matter where they are in your floor. Also if you don't have a sub floor this is a great way to make secret storage nooks. If your floor was from pre 1950s or 1960's there is a good chance you got 100s of square feet of secret storage space you don't even know about!

Like my other instructables I made this as accesible as possible, The floor boards I used to replace the old ones are from a demolished apartment, and I show a few options depending on your tool collection.

Floor board(s) to replace your bad ones

something to slice the floor (one or more of the following):

-a circular saw (preferred method)

-drill (electric or manual) with large hole cutting bits (less than the width of the board)

Wood chisel(s)

flat head screwdriver

Tape measure

pencil/marker

blade

hammer

nail set

wood glue

nails

If you are using a circular saw, you have to set the correct height of the blade, not doing so can result in serious harm or electrocution, to you and your tools.

Some older floors have conduit running directly under the boards as well as very thick nails that if you are not careful you can cut into and cause problems.

To set your blade height follow the saws user manual and use the replacement board as a guide for the proper height (see photos), its okay to set it slightly shorter than you need it to be i fyou suspect your floor may be full of surprises.

If you dont have a manual there should be a way to loosen the guide so it slides up and down, and then be sure to lock it again.

If you are using a drill instead, pick the largest circle cutting bit that is shorter than the width of your board. and use either a marker or some tape (i recommend tape as its much more visible while you are drilling) to mark the depth of the replacement board on the bit (see photo) (yes, I used the wrong type of circle cutting bits for this kind of project but its what I had to give an idea of the example).

this step is to break up and weaken the structure of the board and create some space so that we can chisel out the bad board in chunks to safely remove it without damaging the surround boards.

For circular saw users (and this is the preferred and easier method, in my opinion)

Cut strips the long way across the board, do not go all the way to the end of the board, and avoid nails and staples. A minimum of two but when you get to the next step you may find that you need more cuts depending on the size and condition of your boards. More is never bad as long as your blade remains at a safe height.

If no nails or staples are visible and you are replacing tongue and groove boards the nails and staples will be set in about the length of the tongue, so measure a safe distance fromthe long edge based on how far in the tongues/grooves go,( a centimeter would probably be a pretty safe distance, if you aren't sure, and have skinnier boards).

Then cut long diagonals across the cuts youve made so you get kind of rhombus shapes. Again avoid going all the way to the edges.

For drill users:

drill holes along the length of the board, the more the better, avoid going too far to the edge so as not to damage the surrounding boards.

Chisel towards the center of the board, start removing some middle chunks, to create space to collapse in the edges without causing damage. If you used the drill method you'll need to hammer in some grooves connecting the sides of the holes. Chisel around you will find the sweet spots, its very satisfying.

When you get near the edges you might run in to trouble when you get to the nailed down parts. use caution and patience in removing them.

Once you remove the board you might have some nails or parts of staples and things stuck or sticking up where your new board needs to go. You will also discover if you have secret stash spots under your floor.

Try to remove the nails with the hammer or with a crow bar/jimmy bar.

If they can't be lifted out, you can try to hammer down the parts sticking out, or try to break off the part sticking out and then use the nail set to hammer down the protruding bit.

measure and cut your replacement board down to the correct length. use the left over bits to make sure it will fit properly with your floor and that the tongue and grooves will line up correctly. (see photo)

Using the scrap piece will also help you determine which grooves need to be cut.

If its a tongue and groove board you have a tongue side (the side thats sticking its tongue out at you) and the groove side which has a top sticking out part and a bottom sticking out part, remove the bottom sticking out parts on the long and short end. If using the circular reset the heigh so you dont cut through both grooves. Other wise chisel down from the middle of the groove to remove the lower protruding part.

Remove the tongue part of the SHORT side /end of the board. Do not remove the long tongue.

Its the big moment! placing the board into the floor.

If you are going to stash things now is the time!

Then, slide the tongue end of the new board into the groove of the floor.

The board might need some convincing to set down on all sides, use your scrap bit of board and hammer to gently tap the sticking up end of your board till it is level with the floor.

If you dont have a secret stash or dont intend to remove the board again, a bit of wood glue around the non visible sections before setting the board is a nice touch if it needs the added stability. and a nail or two.

Thats it you're done admire your work, see if you can find the board that was replaced in the photo.

You will probaly to sand and refinish that section of floor, but thats another instructable.