Replace Corsair K95 Gaming Keyboard LEDs

This is how to replace the Corsair K95 Gaming Keyboard LEDs.

• This is the older Corsair K95 Gaming Keyboard.
• It has only the white LEDs.

This key board has the mechanical keys, BUT.

• Although they are the cherry mechanical keys, they are not removable.
• The caps can be removed, the actual swich bodies are soldered to a PCB on the inside.
• The cherry switches are not like the modern type that have LEDs bult in, the LEDs are wired though holes in the switches to the PCB inside.
• This makes replacing the LEDs a little fiddly but not impossible.

The original LEDs are a little shorter than the standard 3mm LEDs.

• Although the Common 3mm LEDs bought of the web are slightly taller, I found no issues using them.

The image shown is My Corsair K95 Gaming Keyboard.

• I have also made some modifications to make it easier for me to use.
• Ignore the yellow plastic additions, I made these to give me a tactile feel for the correct keys while playing games.
• As I take closeup photos for the Instructable, I will try not to show the ecosystem living inside it, haha.

3mm LEDs

• I got a cheep bag of 3mm clear white LEDs from eBay, the cheapest I could find.
• There are 124 keys that are illuminated with 3mm LEDs.

There are some SMD (Surface Mount Device) LEDs on the board for the "M" (memory) Buttons.

• The Size of the SMD LEDs are: 3216 (Metric), 1206 (Imperial).

Tools

Soldering-Iron and fluxed solder.

• I prefer a pointed tip.

Vacuum De-Solder pump. (solder sucker or whatever you call it)

• I prefer this to the fluxed-brad for Though Hole components.

Cross-head Screwdriver. (Phillips)

• There are different sizes of "Phillips" screwdrivers, The one I use had 3.0 on the tip.
• You should always use the correct size "Phillips" cross-head screwdriver.
• The "Phillips" screwdriver is designed to allow the driver to cam out (slip out of the head) when the screw is fully tightened, preventing over-tightening.
• Take care with the screws, so you don't damage them.

Tweezers.

• There is a hidden screw next to the volume wheel, I used tweezes to remove the cover over it.

Sharp Knife.

• A sharp knife is needed to prize out a plastic fitting.

Permanent black marker.

• This is used to mark all the bad LEDs.
• You may also want something that will mark with a bright colour, I use nail-varnish.

LEDs are polarized, that is they need to be fitted the correct way around.

• They have an Anode: The positive terminal.
• They have a Cathode: The negative terminal.

There are ways to know which is which. (The Through Hole Type)

With new LED components one lead is longer than the other.

• Anode: The longer terminal.
• Cathode: The shorter terminal.

Where the LED is a little larger at the base.

• Anode: Has a flat side.
• Cathode: Round side.

If you can see Inside.

• Anode: Post. (Small end)
• Cathode: Anvil. (Large end)

The way we will determine the orientation of the LEDs on the keyboard will be by looking at which side the Anvil is.

• Once the orientation of the LEDs is confirmed, make a note or mark the PCB.
• I found all the LEDs where orientated in the same direction.

The first thing to do is take a photo of your keyboard.

• You will need this as a reference to put all the Key-Caps back on your keyboard.
• You may not want to use my photo if you don't have an English keyboard.
• Depending on your country, some keys may be in a different place. (£$@~)

The next step is to remove all the Key-Caps.

• You may need a tool to help you, a pair of tweezers that can get under them may do.
• There are tools you can buy, I have long finger nails, so I can grab and lift them off.

The next step is to mark the bad LEDs

• Power your Keyboard.
• Set the LEDs so that all are tuned on.
• This keyboard has options to have only keys you want lit, you need to make sure all should be lit.
• I mark all the dead ones and dim ones with a black permanent marker on top of the LED.

I will split disassembly into stages.

Important!

Don't try to lift of the main keyboard assembly of the base once all the screws are removed.

So the first thing to do is place your keyboard on a flat work surface and remove all the screws.

• There are two hidden screws, so lets start with them.

Under the brand name, at the top of your keyboard in the centre.

• The Brand-Name may look like it is part of the aluminium frame, but it isn't, it is an Aluminium Label.
• I used a little heat to soften the glue holding Label on.
• I then used a sharp Craft-Knife to get under the Label and lift it off.

To the top right of your keyboard on the right-hand side of the Volume Wheel, there is a cover over a screw.

• From the right hand side of the Cover, I used some thin tweezers to lift the cover from the keyboard.
• The clips holding the cover are on the inside, so try to keep the cover spread outwards as you lift it.
• It does not come out easy.

Once you have removed the hidden Screws, remove the other screws.

• Keep the Keyboard flat on your work surface for now.

Note!

The 6 screws from the G Keypad are different from the others.

• Keep them separated.

Next you can lift out the 18 G keys panel on the left.

• This is a panel all on its own.
• As you lift it out, turn it over from the bottom.
• you will see a cable connected to it.
• Disconnect the cable.

After removing the G Keys Panel, it may look like the Plastic housing from where it came is all one piece, it is not.

• Using a thin sharp knife ease the inner plastic frame out.
• I started on both top and bottom and worked inwards.

Now we are ready to remove the main Key assembly.

• This is a little delicate at first.
• Once the top internals are free it gets easier.

There is an assembly for the top row of mode buttons and volume wheel.

• It needs unclipping from the bottom case.

holding the keyboard together stand it up on the front of the keyboard so that the cable is pointing up.

• Slowly let the top side of the bottom casing open away from the key panel.
• Let it open enough so you can see inside the top of the casing.
• There are short cable that we don't want to pull against.

With the top side of the keyboard open slightly, reach inside with some strong sharp tweezers to prize the insides (The Mode Buttons Assembly) away form the base of the keyboard.

• The plastic inner Assembly piece is clipped in in several locations along the length of the top side of the casing.
• You need to release it in several locations.
• Once you have released it in all the locations you can remove the case from the keyboard assembly.

There are a few things to disconnect.

• Carefully remove the two Ribbon-Cables, they just pull out.
• Remove the screw holding GND cable.
• Carefully remove the two plugs from there sockets, they just pull out.

You should have the keyboard Button Assembly free of all other parts.

• We can now start to replace the LEDs.

The first thing to do is identify all the LEDs that need removing on the PCB side.

• I have used some yellow Nail-Varnish.
• Check and check again you have the right ones, there are a lot of keys and it is easy to get it wrong.

I have done a video to show how I remove the LEDs

• I thought it the best way to show me removing one.
• There are may ways to remove Through Hole Components, but as we only have access to one side of the PCB, I though I would show how I do it.

This is the sequence I do it:

• Add solder to the two terminals of the LED, this is so that you can bridge the two terminals so that the soldering iron is heating up both terminals at the same time.
• When all the solder is liquid, you should be able to rest the tip of the soldering iron on the end of a terminal and it should drop down to the level of the PCB.
• When the LED drops down, you should be able to grab it from the underside and pull it out.
• The important thing is to keep the solder fluid.
• Once the LED has been remove the holes in the PCB need clearing.
• Place the tip of the soldering iron on the edge of the hole.
• If there is not enough solder for the soldering iron to make all the solder fluid, add a little more solder. (just enough)
• Prime the Solder Vacuum Pump.
• When all the solder is fluid, place the tip of the Solder Vacuum Pump over the hole and activate it.
• If all wen well, the hole will be clear of solder.

You may have to repeat the Vacuuming of the solder.

• Practice makes perfect. Take your time.
• The key to using a Solder Vacuum Pump is; enough heat so that all the solder is liquid.
• Take care you don't add too much solder that it builds up on the side you can't see.
• Some times gravity assist, is a thing you can do by holding the PCB above the soldering iron so any excess solder when liquid will flow down onto the soldering iron.
• When adding solder you just want enough to get good heat transfer to the core of the solder inside the hole.

Check Step 1.

• Make sure you know which orientation the LEDs need to be inserted into the PCB.

Insert an LED from the key side in the correct orientation through the PCB and solder in place.

• Make sure the LED is sat firmly against the Key body.
• Once the LED is soldered trim the leads of the LED.

The Memory Buttons (M1, M2, M3 and MR) LEDs are SMD type.

• They are on a small PCB of there own.
• After removing them, I found they where standard SMD LEDs 3216 (Metric), 1206 (Imperial).
• I didn't have any this size, I had some smaller ones which I managed to bridge across the hole they shine through.

Reassembly is a little different to the disassembly.

• We may have been able to disassemble in the opposite way we will assemble it back together.
• I was not sure the memory button section would come away without being able to prize it free inside.

The first thing to do is attach the Memory Button Assembly to the Main Keyboard Assembly.

• In the Image there are four holes ringed Green, these are for four screws that attach the Memory Button Assembly to the Main Keyboard Assembly.
• Use four screws and attach the two assemblies together.

Next you we need to connect the internal wires and cables.

• Carefully insert the two Ribbon-Cables, they should push in. Try not to kink the ribbon.
• Fit the the screw to hold the GND cable.
• Refit the two plugs into there sockets, they just push in.

The Main Keyboard Assembly can now be placed in the Case (Bottom).

• When doing so make sure that the Switch Lever on the back of the Case, aligns correctly with the Switch on the Keyboard Assembly.
• Make sure you have placed the Cable for the G Keys in the area for the G Keys.
• The top part of the Keyboard will need pushing together firmly so the the Memory Button Assembly clicks into place.
• Once the Keyboard Assembly is in place, fit the remaining screws (Yellow).

Now we can fit the G Key Assembly.

• Fit the Plastic support frame, this just clips in with a little pressure.
• Connect the G Keys power cable.
• Place The G Keys Assembly into the Frame.
• Use the six screws that came from the G Keys Assembly to fix it in place.

Replace the covers that hid the two hidden screws.

• I glued the Logo back in place with Contact Adhesive, this is a soft glue that should I need to remove it again, it will be quite easy.
• The cover over the screw next to the volume wheel, just pushes into place.

I suppose you can do this before gluing back the Logo.

• Time to check all LEDs light up.
• Plug in your keyboard and see if all are lit.

The last thing to do is replace al your Key caps.

• I used my photo I took before dismantling the Keyboard to help me place them in the right place.
• I also did it live (with the keyboard plugged in). I opened a blank text document, so when pushed down to fix the Key Cap in place It confirmed I had the correct Key Cap on the correct switch.