RC Truck Wall Mount

Looking for a cool way to show off your RC truck and free up some closet space?

If so, you may be interested in building this RC Truck Wall Mount.

Here are the highlights:
- Support your RC trucks weight from the frame, no more flattened tires or saggy suspension.
- Store a handful of your favorite spare-parts in the built-in sliding drawer.
- Hang your RC transmitter in the docking-bay, never to get lost.
- Know your RC truck is secure with this cross-grain laminated total overkill construction.
- Show off your very expensive hobby with pride.

For more fancy product-shot pics to drool over, please visit my website:
http://rapidwhale.com/rc-wall-mount.php

Thanks, and enjoy!
-Josh!

Here's what you will need:

LASER CUT PARTS (2 options)
- Cut them yourself with the included files.
- or purchase an already cut DIY Kit from my website: http://rapidwhale.com/rc-wall-mount.php

Safety Glasses
- Seriously, glues can be pretty nasty stuff, especially in your eyeball!

Weights
- or just some heavy objects to squish together wood while the glue cures.

Clips
- I love having a bunch of binder-clips for holding pieces together.

Wood Glue
- Because we are gluing wood. You could probably use any CA / Super Glue as well. But I've always had good luck with Elmer's Wood Glue. I also like Tacky Glue.

Super Glue
- For making one wood-to-acrylic connection. An epoxy would also work.

Acrylic Glue
- I like the Acrylic Cement from TAP Plastics. You can use CA / Super Glue as well, but that is likely to fog-up the clear acrylic. (which might not matter if you want to give the acrylic a diffused, sanded finish in the end)

Model Glue
- I'm using this to fill a small gap between acrylic pieces. Again, you could use CA / Super Glue but it might fog.

Paper Towels
- Or anything you want to use to wipe off excess wood-glue. Perhaps a sharp finger?

Sand Paper
- To smooth out any dried glue and remove any smudges from your un-finished wood.

Tape
- To hold together pieces while the glue cures. I like the tan stuff, because it's a lot cheaper than the blue stuff.

Optional: Stain
- If you want to get fancy.

In a logical manor.

These are the structural walls of the product, so I wanted them to be extra-thick and extra-strong!

Take note that there is a pretty-side, and a not-so-pretty side to wood sheets. Try and always glue the pretty-side on the visible side.

*notice the parts are cut / assembled such that the wood grain is crossing. I like to think that's what makes them extra-strong.

Peel off the protective film from both sides.

Assemble the container w/ minimal tape. The tape it just there to hold it in place while we glue it, so don't use a lot of tape.

This is your last safety-glasses reminder. Put them on if you haven't already.

Acrylic glue is awesome. Because of its free-flowing nature you can glue together pieces that are already in position.

Run the brush or needle (depending on your applicator) along the edges and watch the magic happen. But avoid the areas with tape, or you run the risk of gluing the tape to the acrylic.

After a minute or two, remove the tape and glue where the tape was.

Then fill the seam gap w/ model glue.

Do a dry-run and assemble the box loosely as shown. This will give you a good understanding of how the pieces fit together.

Lay out the pieces in a logical position and get ready to start the fun-stuff (gluing).

Be sure to glue the pieces in the correct order, and be sure to put the glue in the correct places. (see the pictures for a complete step-by-step approach).

Wipe off excess glue as you go.

Tape together the assembly as you reach different checkpoints.

Be sure to do this entire step in one sitting, because the pieces are only going to hold the unit in-true if you connect all the pieces! No need for a jig here, just don't go for a long potty-break half way through.

For the Axial SCX10 trucks, and perhaps a few others, you will only need the parts pictured.

Reminder: Glue the parts with the pretty side of the wood on the more visible side, and with the grains crossing (for extra strength).

If your truck isn't an Axial SCX10 model, then it might be time to get creative! In which case, I'd suggest a dry-assembly to see if re-locating these frame-rails will be necessary.The extra laser-cut pieces in the kit are there to help you get creative about re-locating the frame-rails so that they hold your specific RC model. Best of luck!

Use the CA / Super Glue to attach the (ugly-side) wood to the matching acrylic piece. If you want to get fancy you can glue it such that the grain matches the face when the whole thing is assembled.

Align it perfectly and clamp / hold it in place while the glue cures.

Remove the clamps then glue the (ugly-side) handle to the door. (I used wood glue since this is a wood-to-wood surface)

Remove the tape.

Insert the drawer.

Celebrate!

Be sure to mount both screws into a wall stud.

I used 2" screws and felt like that was a good length.

If your truck has an outside-tire-to-outside-tire distance of 9.0" then you don't need the optional laser-cut spacer. Without the spacer, and with the 9.0" dimension I just mentioned, your rig's tires will sit 0.5" off the wall. You can measure your rig's dimension and do the math to figure out whether or not you need the optional spacer, and how many to use.

Take a pic of your setup, and tell me how awesome it is.

Visit my website to view more fancy pics:

http://rapidwhale.com/rc-wall-mount.php

Thanks.
-Josh!