Owlbert Palisman

I've been a fan of the Owl House since it first came out. I've also been wanting to make a cosplay staff for quite a while now. What better way to start my journey than by creating a 3D printed version of Owlbert, Eda Clawthorn's palisman from the Owl House!

My name is Aashka, and I did this for my SIDE Project in Ms.Berbawy's Principles of Engineering class.

Software:

• Fusion 360

Printers Used:

• Original Prusa MINI & MINI+
• Original Prusa i3 MK3S & MK3S+
• Markforged Onyx Pro

Slicer:

• Prusa Slicer
• Eiger

Filament:

• Dark brown
• Light Brown
• Pale Brown

Other:

• Wooden Dowel
• Gorilla Glue
• Superglue

For those new to Fusion 360:

• I suggest starting with LearnItDoItMakeIt's 100 days of Fusion. They have short videos and exercises that teach you how to use Fusion 360. I suggest doing it up until day 25 for this project. The videos are pretty short, and you should be able to get through the 25 videos in just a few days.

1) Create a new sketch on the XY plane. Sketch a center diameter (c.d) circle with a diameter of 3 in. Image 1.

2) Construct an offset plane 1 in above the first sketch. Create a new sketch on the offset plane. Sketch a c.d circle with a diameter of 2.5 in. Image 2.

3) Construct an offset plane 5 inches above the first sketch. Create a new sketch on the offset plane. Sketch a 5" (horizontal) by 4" (vertical) ellipse. Image 3.

4) Loft the first two sketches together. Loft the second two sketches together. You're model should look like the 4th image above.

1) Construct an offset plane far enough away so that it doesn't intersect with the main body.

2) Create a sketch on the offset plane. Create --> project/include --> project. Project the very top of the body and where the second sketch was (look at the Image 2 for more clarity on where to project). Use the projections to create a "point" at the very middle of both lines. To find the middle, drag your cursor across the line until a triangle appears, then click. Image 2

3) On this sketch we will be drawing the curve of the body. Create a 2.5 inch tall line. Then, go to create --> arc --> 3 point arc. From the top of the 2.5 inch line to one of the top corners of the body, create your arc. You can eyeball it until it looks good. When I eyeballed it, my arc ended up having a radius of 3.343 in. Look at figure 3 for more clarity.

4) Finish Sketch and extrude through the main body as a cut. Image 4

1) Create an offset plane 6 inches above the very bottom face.

2) Create a sketch on the offset plane. Create an ellipse that is 3.5 by 2.5 inches. (Image 1)

3) Loft: choose the ellipse as profile one, and one half of the curve of the body as profile 2. Make the loft a new component. Look at image 2 for more clarity.

4) Do the same thing with the other half of the curve. This time, make the loft a "join." Look at image 3 for more clarity.

Hollowing out the Body:

1) Modify --> shell the body at 0.2 inches.

1) Make the head component active by clicking on the little circle next to its name. Copy paste the head and move it to the side. Image 1.

2) Modify --> scale the copy-head with a factor of 0.886. Image 2.

4) Create an offset plane 2.5 inch down from the top face of the head. Create another offset plane 2.215 inches down from the top face of the scaled-head. On both these planes. create a sketch of a rectangle, then extrude it a tiny bit downwards (as a join). We will be using this to join the two pieces together. Your design should look like image 3.

5) Turned the scaled-head from a "body" to a "component". Go to assemble --> joint. Make sure it is "Between two faces." Start with the scaled head. The first face should be the top of the head. The second face should be the side of the rectangle that's tangent to the very bottom of the head. Refer to image 4.

6) Select the snap point to be right in the middle. Refer to image 5.

7) Do the same with the unscaled head. It should automatically move the two head pieces together. It should look something like image 6.

8) On the timeline on the bottom, delete the extrudes you did for the rectangles. Go to inspect --> section analysis to get a closer look at how the two heads joined. Image 7.

9) Modify --> combine the two heads and choose cut (image 8). Your final head piece should look hollowed (image 9).

10) Create a sketch and extrude downwards to keep the top hollow (image 10). Create a 5mm extrusion at the top of the head and fillet it (image 11).

1) Create a copy of your head. Hide the first "body". Look at image 1.

2) Create an offset plane away from your head piece. Sketch out your eye mask to your preference. Make use of 3 point arcs. Also make use of the "mirror" feature in "create" in order to make both sides symmetrical. Look at image 2 to see how I did it.

3) In the sketch, use the trim feature to get rid of extra lines you don't need (including the mirror line). Finish sketch. Go to modify --> split body. Choose the sketch as the splitting tool and split the body (image 3). The split should create 2 new bodies. One of them should look something like image 4. Hide the rest of the bodies.

4) Create an offset plane above the head and create a sketch. Draw a rectangle that covers most of the head, leaving the side of eye mask free. Extrude this downwards as a cut (image 5 and 6).

5) Use inspect --> measure to measure the width of the eye mask. we want the thickness to be 1.5 mm. You can go to "document settings" to change the unit of measurement. Use this to find out how much needs to be cut. For me it was: 4.419 - 1.5 = 2.919 mm.

6) Create a copy of the eye mask and move it 2.919 mm (or whatever you got) backwards. Them combine them with a cut. Refer to image 8 and 9.

7) Make the head piece visible again. Make a copy of the eye piece. Combine the head piece and eye piece as a cut. Now you should have an imprint on the head for the eye piece to go into. Image 1.

8) Create a copy of the eye piece and scale the copy down with a 0.99 scale factor. You should have something that looks like image 2.

9) Use the split body feature again. Use the sketch you made before to split the eyes onto the eye mask and the body. You will need to go one eye at a time, or it won't work. You should have something that looks like image 3.

10) Combine the pieces that got cut into the back of the head as a join. Look at image 4.

11) On the sketch of the eye mask, add a nose and shape it like a diamond. Extrude the nose a bit, and use the fillet feature to round it off. Move the nose to the eye mask, and combine them into a single body. Image 5.

11) You're done (with the eye piece)!

1) Create an offset plane 1 inch below the bottom face of the body. Create a 1.5 inch diameter circle on the sketch. Loft the sketch onto the bottom face of the body (as a new body) Then, turn the body into a separate component. I will be referring to this component as the "screw-staff." Image 1.

2) On the faces shown in image 2, create a 2.1 inch diameter circle and extrude it 1 in (upwards on screw-staff and inwards on the body piece.

3) On the Body Piece, turn on section analysis to see the little "shelf" made when you did the extrusion. Extrude that shelf upwards to the crease as a join. Image 3.

4) Starting with screw-staff, create --> thread on the extruded surface. Make sure to have "modeled" checked so it will actually model the thread. Look at image 4 and make sure that your thread settings match the circled portion.

5) Moving on to the Body Piece, create --> on the inward extruded surface. Make sure to have "modeled" checked so it will actually model the thread. Look at image 5 and make sure that your thread settings match the circled portion. They are not the same as in step 4, so please be careful.

6) Turn on section analysis and to get a better understanding on how your screw pieces will fit together. Image 6

7) I used an Onyx Pro printer, and these settings worked perfectly for me. I suggest test printing on your desired printer first, as different filaments and printers can affect the quality of the screw.

8) If you would like to see my test print, look at image 7.

9) If you would like to see my screw working: here is a link to the video

1) On the screw-staff, create a 42 inch extrusion downwards. Image one.

2) Create a sketch on any plane that intersects the staff through the middle. On the sketch, create a 4.712 (2pi(r)) by 42 inch rectangle. Image 2

3) Open an illustrator file and create a 4.712 by 42 inch canvas. On this, create a wooden-texture. You can either draw your own or find one online. You can also add glyph designs if you want. You can look at image 3 to see what I did.

4) Vector the file and save it as an SVG. Insert the SVG onto the sketch you created in step 2. Make sure to line it up as desired with the rectangle. Image 4

5) Emboss the sketch around the staff at 1 mm. Image 5.

1) Create an offset plane 1/2 inch above the bottom of the staff.

2) Measure the diameter of your dowel. Add 0.3 mm to your measurement for tolerance. For me, that final measurement was 25.01 mm. Image 1

3) Create a center-diameter circle on the offset plane with a diameter equal to your measurement.

4) Extrude upwards 42 inches as a cut. Image 2

*I suggest test printing your staff to make sure it will fit on your dowel*

1) Duplicate the Main Body. Hide the first copy of the Main Body. Create an offset plane away from the front of the Main Body. Image 1.

2) Create a sketch and draw out the shape you want the wings to be. Image 2

3) Use split body twice on each wing. Image 3.

4) Measure the length of the wings. For me it was 5.437 mm. I wanted to create a 2mm indent for the wings to go into. I moved the both wings 3.437 mm away from the body. Image 4 and 5.

5) Duplicate the wings. Use the combine feature to combine the wings and the Main Body as a cut. Once you turn the wings into a new component, you should be able to move them. It should look like image 6.

6) Scale both wings by a factor of 0.99

1) Here are all the different components you should have by now:

• Head
• Eye Mask
• Body Piece
• Wing1
• Wing2
• Staff

2) For the staff, slice it every 6 inches. Image 1.

3) For the Body, slice at 1 inch (where the screw is), and no connectors are needed. Image 2.

4) Save each screw piece (one from the staff and one from the body) as separate STLs. I used an Onyx Pro printer to print them. Image 3.

5) For the head, place it on the top face (now the bottom face). Slice the bottom at 5mm as shown in image 4. Slice somewhere near the top where the point is. (look at image 4). Add organic supports to the larger piece and grid supports to the smaller piece.

6) The wings can be printed as is. Image 5.

7) Place the eye mask as shown in image 6 and add supports as shown in image 6. I recommend manually painting on supports on every side that touches the build plate.

8) Filament Colors:

• Dark Brown: Head, Wings
• Light Brown: Body, Staff
• Pale Brown: Eye Mask

1) When gluing PLA together, use regular superglue and clamp or hold for at least 10 minutes.

2) When gluing PLA and Nylon filament, use gorilla glue and clamp it for a few hours.

You're Done!