Outdoor AC Compressor Shade

In order to improve the performance of an air conditioner, the compressor, usually located outside, should be shaded. The compressor should also have a good cover on top to keep leaves and other debris from falling inside. Yet, it needs to be able to easily blow air. This project provides all these features. Plus, with some additional covering, it could hide the compressor. This can easily be applied to any outdoor systems such as pool filter / pump, pond pump, etc.

This was designed to be durable and long-lasting in the outdoor environment. It also could easily be moved out of the way if complete access is necessary.

Tools:

• circular or hand saw
• drill w/ appropriate bit
• tape measure
• square
• pencil / pen for marking wood

Supplies:

• 2x4x8' (3)
• 2x4x12' (3)
• 2x2x8' (3)
• 4'x8' lattice
• 3" deck screws
• Tuftex deck drain fasteners

A note about the 2x4s used. I selected the pressure treated type since it will last much longer than regular wood. Plus, I did not want to paint the wood.

The 2x2 I used was redwood. Though a bit more pricey than regular fir, it does stand up to the outdoor environment without the need for painting.

The lattice I used was white plastic. Wood lattice will break down sooner. Also, be sure to select a lattice with a large opening so that air flow is not impeded.

3" screws allow sufficient screw length to get through the 2x4s and bite well into the other side without going completely through. I chose to use the Hillman with the T25 bit avoid stripping the screw head and it does well at self-drilling - no pre-drilling the wood required. I used about 1/2 the box.

The Tuftex deck drain fasteners was used for the securing the lattice. A drill bit is needed to make a sufficient hole in the lattice, and the fasteners provide a soft, secure fit to the frame.

This is my compressor that is at the side of the house. I have a few things in the way such as the electrical box, drain pipe, and kitchen vent hood (not shown in these pictures but seen in later photos).

The design was quickly made with SolidWorks so that I could visualize the frame design. It also allowed me to work out the lengths of 2x4s needed. The attached pdf file shows my design needs. In actuality, one does not need to make the cover as wide as I did.

As for the height, the lattice should be at least 2 feet above the top of the compressor. I chose to put a slant in to allow any debris falling on top to slide off.

I chose to use 8 foot 2x2 for the back legs to go up against the house. The front slopes down to provide at least 2 feet above the compressor.

As for the distance from the house, I selected at least 6" overhang beyond the compressor. I had to keep it minimum since this is the side of the house and still have room to walk around the project.

The width was determined to be wide enough to allow the project to be placed around the kitchen vent and the plumbing. This way I could secure the back boards to the house if needed (not needed in the area this was installed). One could ensure the width is sufficient to allow maintenance access to the compressor.

The pdf file shows the assembly, but this Instructable will provide steps and pictures along the way.

Based on the dimensions in the pdf, I cut the wood to the basic lengths listed. I used the 12 foot boards to cut one slant board and one cross support. This makes a bit more efficient use of wood purchasing with minimal material waste.

I used a flat area and placed the back leg with the 2" side on the ground. The front leg is placed on top of another 2x4 so that the cross and slant pieces can be square with the two legs.

I used a 2x4 across the bottom to help set up the squaring of the legs. (I will talk about leg height later in the wrap-up section at the end.) I then used a tape measure to ensure the bottom of the legs and the cross piece are all squared.

I opted to place the top back corner in the middle of the 2" as seen in first the close-up photo.

The second close-up photo shows how I laid out the front leg with the cross and slant pieces. However, the Left Side is a better setup than what I did for this Right Side.

Once all the pieces are laid out, the frame is checked for squareness one last time. Then I used at least two screws at each joint to secure boards together. Note: I tried to not put screws along the same grain. I pulled out the 2x4 underneath a bit to show that I actually used a board while laying out the frame.

Once secured, I trimmed off the excess wood so that it would not jut out.

Now build the left side. However, note the difference in the placement of the boards. I also made the cross and slant and leg intersection much better than I did with the right side.

The last two photos show my trim lines with the saw.

These photos are of the two side frames before being put into place.

This photo shows the two sides in place. Here one can see the kitchen vent hood. At this point I forgot to account for sloping of the yard away from the house. Thus, you can see the boards placed under the feet. This will be addressed in the wrap-up step.

Here one can see the final frame assembly. A structure is rigid when built with triangles (look at the old railroad bridges as an example). So, once I got the structure up, I used some scrap 2x4 to place in supports. The angle is 45 degrees and the boards are at least 2 feet to start. Any longer, I felt that the rigid support could be in the way of walking under the structure.

All boards are secured with at least two 3-inch deck screws.

The back cross piece is not placed at the top since it could have interfered with the kitchen vent.

Using 2x2, I carefully measured for both cross piece length. I used one screw to secure in place. Note that the 2x2 is essentially flush with the top of the slant supports. I added in a center 2x2 to ensure that the lattice would not sag in the middle.

Here I have placed and secured the lattice on top of the structure. This is also the final picture.

Deck Drain fasteners were used to secure the lattice. With the lattice laid in place, I drilled a small hole through the plastic. The padding part of the washer helps prevent stress on the plastic and cracking. Screws were placed in the corners and around one foot apart. There are also screws to the center support 2x2 as well.

Looking back at this project, I can make a few comments that one should think about as they build this Instructable.

1. Take into account of any base material under the legs. I really should have measured the height to the top of the kitchen hood from the ground, not the top of the rocks. This applies to the back legs that are up against the house. Thus, the pictures show a 2x4 under the back legs.
2. I should have accounted for the extra leg length needed due to ground sloping away from the house. Thus, I had to put two 2x4's under the front legs.
3. The distance from the house worked out well in this case with the 4-foot wide lattice. Looking carefully at the last picture, there is about a 6-inch gap between the lattice and the house. This is good since it allows for better air flow.

Though the final picture does not show these last few steps that may be desired.

• Adding a piece of lattice across the front will provide some additional shading to the compressor. However, when securing, it would be best to not directly secure the lattice but to allow the lattice to hang off screws sticking out. The front piece does not have to extend all the way to the ground; 2 to 3 feet would suffice for this design. This way, one can easily remove any lattice to service the compressor.
• Adding a piece of lattice across the sides. This just helps hide the compressor a bit better. The lattice could be trimmed to the triangular shape if desired. The side pieces, at least in this build, could be secured to the frame.

Hope you have enjoyed building this Instructable and that you may have picked up some tips and tricks along the way.