Orthopedic Brace or Splint Repair & Custom Upgrade

I was deciding whether and when to have joint replacement surgery when the pandemic hit. I decided the logistics of an elective surgery and months of therapy during quarantine was too much of a hurdle, so I'd put off the decision for a while longer. Unfortunately, about a month in my custom molded hand brace started to deteriorate, and developed large cracks at the stress points. I took it in for repair, but the repair only lasted weeks.

I was told that even if PT made me a new brace, the molding material wasn't intended for long term use - especially if I wanted to wash it frequently. I came up with a solution using my jewelry making and resin skills that resulted in a stronger, better brace. And its's still like new after months of wear.

Will these techniques work on other projects? Yes! You can use this tutorial to strengthen, repair, and waterproof almost any surface - just test your materials first.

I used my original brace as the form for the better one. This means my original brace was changed forever. Don't change anything you may regret!! My brace was soon going to be unusable, so I had nothing to lose.

In addition, I asked the PT tech who repaired my brace the first time for some scraps of the molding materials. That way I was able to test the glues and resin in a safe way before adding anything to my brace.

They were also willing to give me some extra velcro, though this is easy enough to buy. And I ended up not needing it.

So the moral is, don't make permanent changes to something you can't replace unless you have no choice. Also, you'll be without your brace/support for a day or two at a time, so take this into account.

Last, I'm not any kind of PT tech or medical professional. If you're unsure about something here, talk to an orthopedic specialist.

The base form, like your original splint or brace

Sample of the brace material to use for testing, if possible

Apoxie Sculpt in the colors of your choice

and/or

Epoxy glue (not the 5 minute kind)

and/or

Clear epoxy (not the 5 minute kind)

Dremel with sanding bit

Sandpaper - coarse and fine

Wax paper or Parchment paper

Round toothpicks

Dust mask

Apoxie Sculpt

Pros: Moldable 2 part epoxy that can be worked like clay. It comes in many colors that can be mixed. Hardens to a hard, waterproof, flat finish. No toxic fumes.

Cons: Expensive. Not self-leveling.

Epoxy Glue

Pros: Cheap and strong. 2 part epoxy. Self-leveling when first mixed. Hardens to a hard, waterproof, satin finish.

Cons: Very limited color choices. Messy. Toxic fumes.

Clear Epoxy (or epoxy resin)

Pros: Great for finishing and adding shine. 2 part epoxy. (Epoxy resin is thinner and pourable) Can be mixed with colors and or glitter. Self-leveling when first mixed. Hardens to a hard, waterproof, shiny finish

Cons: Messy. Toxic fumes.

All of these epoxies are appropriate for covering and sealing the moldable material of your brace or splint. You can use any one of them or any combination.

I used beige epoxy glue to seal the cracks at the beginning and fill in gaps in the splint material.

I used Apoxie Sculpt as the main cover to add color.

And I coated the whole thing in clear epoxy resin to make the brace shiny and smooth.

If your brace has cracks or weak spots (mine was nearly cracked in half) you'll need to stabilize it first.

Wearing gloves, mix a small amount of epoxy glue according to package instructions. I used the beige cheap stuff here.

Important Note: PUT PARCHMENT PAPER or WAX PAPER BETWEEN the WET EPOXY and anything used to hold the repairs. Epoxy doesn't stick to these parchment or wax paper.

Use the mixed glue to mend broken pieces and fill in cracks. Apply with a toothpick and wipe off any excess. If there are cracks, gently separate the edges to get glue all the way in.

Use tape, paper clips, and/or rubber bands to hold the repairs together. Secure as tightly as possible.

After the gluing is done, let cure on the wax or parchment paper.

Leave to cure overnight.

Apoxie Sculpt has a working time of around an hour, so mix up a batch based on how fast you work and how large an area you're planning to cover.

Mix equal amounts of color and hardener. I make a small ball of each to measure. Decide how many colors you'll be using, and mix each color separately.

I used grey, brown, and white. (The beige in my brace is the epoxy glue.) And lightly rolled the mixed colors to create marbling.

At this stage, the repairs are probably stronger than the original material, so work firmly, but gently.

When we get to sanding the brace, multiple colors will create a marbled look.

There are two ways to apply multiple colors to your brace or splint. You can either lightly mix the colors together by making coils and rolling them together as shown. Or you can lay down each color separately into any pattern you want. Either way, start with little balls of color, either solid color or mixed colors.

Flatten out one ball at a time with a roller, or by hand. Make these small sheets as thin as possible, as long as you can still pick them up in one piece.

Pick up the first flattened piece of Apoxie Sculpt and lay it down on your splint where you want color.

Press down the Apoxie Sculpt, starting at the center of the sheet and moving outward. Press out air bubbles as you go. Apoxie Sculpt is a glue, so you don't have to worry about it sticking.

When you get to the edges smooth them down onto the splint.

If you covered any ventilation holes use a toothpick to poke through them and open them back up. (More on this to come)

Flatten a second ball and repeat the process in a new spot.

Repeat until you've covered everything you want covered.

Smooth all edges together.

Let the Apoxie Sculpt cure overnight on a piece of wax paper.

Note: You don't have to wear gloves, but some colors may come off on your hands, so you may want to.

1) Thickness

When adding to the original brace, you're adding thickness. Keep this in mind as you apply Apoxie Sculpt and glue. The outside should be no problem, but be aware when working on the inside, especially at finger holes. If you do add too much though, it's fixable, just more work.

2) Holes

You can poke through the clay to open the original ventilation holes as I mentioned in the previous step. Or you can fill in the holes and drill them out at the end when everything is cured. Use a small drill bit on your Dremel or drill.

3) Velcro and other attachments

Bring the glues and Apoxie Sculpt up to the edges of the Velcro, but be careful not to cover the loops and hooks. The glue will help attachments stay attached.

4) Gluing Timing

Depending on the shape of your brace or splint, you not be able to do the epoxy steps in one go. You will have to use your judgment as to whether or not you can hold the brace and set it down to dry if you do all the gluing in one sitting.

This is an optional step.

I mixed a little more beige epoxy glue and used it to fill in gaps in the Apoxie Sculpt. The beige will work well with the other colors I chose and will add to the marbled effect when sanded. This is also a good way to ensure attachments are well secured.

Let the epoxy cure overnight.

This part is where the real artistry and craftsmanship comes in.

First, inspect your work. See where you have high and low spots. Have you covered all of the original material?

Next, try the brace or splint on. Where does it fit well? Where is it tight? Where doesn't it fit at all?

The fitted areas will be sanded for smoothness, if needed. Tight areas will be shaped with the Dremel.

Safety First! You must either wear a dust mask, or wet sand. Epoxy dust is very bad to breathe in.

Start by sanding or Dremeling the places that are too tight. I used a coarse drum on my Dremel. Take off a little epoxy at a time and try on frequently. Do not go past the original brace material. The sanding will take time, but is very important for comfort, so don't skimp.

When the fit is good all over, sand down all the high points inside and out.

Rinse off the dust as needed.

Now sand the entire splint with finer sandpaper until everything feels smooth.

If you're drilling ventilation holes, drill them now.

Rinse.

Make sure the splint is dry before the next step.

This step is optional.

Pros: The clear outer coating insures a good waterproof seal and a beautiful shine.

Cons: The smooth finish can get a little sweatier than the satin finish of sanded Apoxie Sculpt.

Mix up enough Clear epoxy or epoxy resin to cover half the brace in a thin layer. You will want to work quickly so the epoxy doesn't thicken. Resin will stay thinner longer.

Use a popsicle stick or plastic utensil to spread a very thin layer of clear over EITHER the inside or the outside.

Poke a round toothpick through holes to keep them open.

Set on wax paper without the glue touching anything - you make need to prop the splint on something (like a soup can).

Let cure overnight.

The next day repeat with the other side and let cure.

Make sure the epoxy or resin is 100% cured. Then reattach any straps or velcro.

Try the brace on, check over, check the holes and re-drill if necessary.

If any thing gets too tight with the clear coat on, sand to fit. Sanded epoxy is still waterproof.

Your brace or splint is now fixed and super-strong. It can withstand hot water and vigorous scrubbing.

Please let me know how it goes if you try this. And if you have any suggestions feel free to add them to the comments.

Let me know if you have any questions!