Nerf Mod for Hammershot (with LEDs!)
by legospence in Outside > Launchers
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Nerf Mod for Hammershot (with LEDs!)
Hey everyone! This is my 3rd nerf mod, and I really like it so far! I plan to eventually add a BlasterParts metal hammer. So, let's get into it! You'll need about 2-3 days to work on it as well as...
-A dremel
-A #1 screwdriver
-Quality spray paint (I use Krylon and valsper. Rustolium works well too, but avoid color palace products)
-Silver brush paint (for dry-brushing)
-Sandpaper
-Small paintbrushes
-Painters tape
-Silicon grease
If you plan to do the internal LEDs, you'll also need
-Electrical tape
-LED of your choice
-9V battery
-9v battery case with switch
-Hookup wire
-1k resistor
-A push button (I salvaged mine from an old nerf Stryfe)
-OPTIONAL: micro LED strip
The first thing I did was unscrewing the blaster, butter-flying it open, and pulled all the internals out. It's ALWAYS a good idea to take a picture of the internals so you can put them back in the same places. I own an app called 53Paper, and I used it to draw over the half-shell of my blaster. I imported the picture and drew over the frame, choosing the colors I wanted. Once that was done, I brought it to my garage and sanded it down with a 120 grit sandpaper. I then used a dremel tool to get to the places I couldn't reach, but be warned, if you use a dremel, you could leave dents in the blaster. After the 120 grit, I then cut down all the way to a 500 grit to get it smooth. I pulled out the dremel again to create two thin holes in the bottom portion for an LED. I then put on two coats of primer (I used dark grey). After it dried, I taped off all the parts I didn't want red and then sprayed two coats of my main color. I then brought it back to my workbench and I did detail work by hand. It may look messy, but that's what I was aiming for. After customizing all the paints, I did two coats of Krylon clear coat. I prefer Krylon clear over Rustolium clear because Rustolium leaves the finished product a bit darker than Krylon does. I then painted some of the internals silver, and I inserted the new spring.
I'm now going to explain my LED circuit I put in my blaster. I used basic hookup wire to connect a micro LED strip and a blue LED with a 1k resistor to a 9v battery. The LEDs will only work if both switches are in the on position. I put mine in so the LEDs only turn on when the blaster is primed. If I do t want them to come on at all, I simply flick the switch on the 9v case. I was going to use shrink wrap, but I ran out, so I stuck with electrical tape. The LED strip has a microchip that effects how the current flows, so my blue LED flickers, which I love! It's all really simple. Just measure the wires, solder them together, and place them in the blaster. Just FYI, I got the micro LED strip off of an old toy helicopter that never worked properly.
So yea! Just before I put the blaster together, I glued in two little blue pieces of plastic that I had sanded down where I had made the two little slits for the LED. I then put the blaster back together and I love it! It shoots really well! If you have any questions, please let me know!
-A dremel
-A #1 screwdriver
-Quality spray paint (I use Krylon and valsper. Rustolium works well too, but avoid color palace products)
-Silver brush paint (for dry-brushing)
-Sandpaper
-Small paintbrushes
-Painters tape
-Silicon grease
If you plan to do the internal LEDs, you'll also need
-Electrical tape
-LED of your choice
-9V battery
-9v battery case with switch
-Hookup wire
-1k resistor
-A push button (I salvaged mine from an old nerf Stryfe)
-OPTIONAL: micro LED strip
The first thing I did was unscrewing the blaster, butter-flying it open, and pulled all the internals out. It's ALWAYS a good idea to take a picture of the internals so you can put them back in the same places. I own an app called 53Paper, and I used it to draw over the half-shell of my blaster. I imported the picture and drew over the frame, choosing the colors I wanted. Once that was done, I brought it to my garage and sanded it down with a 120 grit sandpaper. I then used a dremel tool to get to the places I couldn't reach, but be warned, if you use a dremel, you could leave dents in the blaster. After the 120 grit, I then cut down all the way to a 500 grit to get it smooth. I pulled out the dremel again to create two thin holes in the bottom portion for an LED. I then put on two coats of primer (I used dark grey). After it dried, I taped off all the parts I didn't want red and then sprayed two coats of my main color. I then brought it back to my workbench and I did detail work by hand. It may look messy, but that's what I was aiming for. After customizing all the paints, I did two coats of Krylon clear coat. I prefer Krylon clear over Rustolium clear because Rustolium leaves the finished product a bit darker than Krylon does. I then painted some of the internals silver, and I inserted the new spring.
I'm now going to explain my LED circuit I put in my blaster. I used basic hookup wire to connect a micro LED strip and a blue LED with a 1k resistor to a 9v battery. The LEDs will only work if both switches are in the on position. I put mine in so the LEDs only turn on when the blaster is primed. If I do t want them to come on at all, I simply flick the switch on the 9v case. I was going to use shrink wrap, but I ran out, so I stuck with electrical tape. The LED strip has a microchip that effects how the current flows, so my blue LED flickers, which I love! It's all really simple. Just measure the wires, solder them together, and place them in the blaster. Just FYI, I got the micro LED strip off of an old toy helicopter that never worked properly.
So yea! Just before I put the blaster together, I glued in two little blue pieces of plastic that I had sanded down where I had made the two little slits for the LED. I then put the blaster back together and I love it! It shoots really well! If you have any questions, please let me know!