Making a C-Clamp From a Railroad Spike

by Make Everything in Workshop > Metalworking

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Making a C-Clamp From a Railroad Spike

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In this instructable im going to be showing you how I turned a High Carbon Railroad Spike into a functional C-Clamp. I really enjoy making things out of railroad spikes, and this was a challenging build. I also made a YouTube video showing the process that you can see here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvVU7Z24C-0

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Supplies

Railroad Spike

Forge

Anvil

Tongs

Hammer

Drill

Tap

Lathe

Bar Stock

Starting the Shape

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Im going to be using an induction forge to heat the railroad spike for this process. An induction forge uses electricity to heat metal and is really efficient for a small forging like this. You could definitely do this in a gas forge or coal forge as well. If you want to learn more about induction forges ive got a YouTube video about this one here:

HERE


To start, I heat the head of the spike and condense it down into a square to I can later forge it into the "pad" of the clamp. Using the edge of the anvil and precise hammer blows makes this material very uniform after only a few heats.

Reforming the Tip

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Once the head is formed into a square I also need to re-form the tip of the spike into a square that will eventually house the threads for the screw. This is a little harder to do than the head of the spike as the material is already tapered. Once this material has been upset I square it off and clean it up on the edges of the anvil.

Fullering/ Stretching the Spike

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I want the C-Clamp to have a sort of I-Beam like shape on the body. This will make it stronger and also give it a cool look. To do this im going to add a fuller to both sides of the material. The best way to do that is using my guillotine tool. This is essentially a guided ram that I hit with a hammer with different shapes on the end. This process takes a few heats but makes a really consistent result that looks great. I made this guillotine tool and have a video showing how on my YouTube as well:

Guillotine Tool Video

Bending the Clamp

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Now that the fuller is in, I can bend the clamp into the C shape. First I make sure its nice and straight then I put it in my post vise and bend it over. I make sure that I do this when the material is really hot, and take my time. If you try and bend something over thats not red hot it can tear and rip. Once I got the C shape I was looking for im able to move on to clean up the shape.

Drilling and Taping for the Screw

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I cleaned up the top of the clamp with a file before making dead center with a ruler and scribe. After that I drilled it up in steps to 5/16", and then tapped it with a 3/8-16 tap.

Making the Screw

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I decided to make the screw out of 3/4" bar stock. I turned it down and then threaded it using a geometric die head. I made sure to get the diameter right on the money with a micrometer. A geometric die head is a way to thread on a lathe without using the carriage. Its great for longer threads like this. Once I had the threads working and checked them in the clamp I cleaned up the other end and cut it off using the parting tool.

Making the Pad

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After the screw was made I used the same 3/4" bar stock to make a pad that would act as the clamping surface.

Finishing the Screw and Adding a Handle

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I drilled a hole in the end of the screw and cut a piece of 1/4" rod to be the handle. To make the handle permanently captured in the screw I heated up both ends and smashed them over using the vise. This is a little tricky and requires a lot of clean up on the belt grinder to make it comfortable.

Final Adjustments

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Through all that work the clamp got a little crooked so I heated up the ends and straightened it in the vise.

Wire Wheeling

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A wire wheel really brightens up the forged material and softens all the edges. It also softens up the threads and makes it function that much better in the clamp.

Adding a Touch Mark

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I added my signature "Z" stamp in the clamp to make it my own!

Adding Finish

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To protect the raw steel I finished it with Boiled Linseed oil. This brightens it up and will keep it from rusting.

Complete!

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After all that work, its done! This was such a fun challenge to use the existing railroad spike material mass to make such a functional thing. The induction forge really made this easier, because the heat is very isolated and you can keep from making mistakes by overheating material. Try it out!