Live Edge Coaster From Ancient Himalayan Yew Log

I made a gift for a friend. This is a large live edge coaster made from a log of Himalayan Yew that has been in our family for over 25 years. The tree this log came from is probably 170 -200 years old. We ( My brother and I ) happened to salvage this from the river after a flood. The wood was already seasoned but wet, leading us to believe that it had been washed down from the very high altitudes that this species grows in to the river where it lay until that flood brought it home to us.

You could make such a project from any well seasoned log that you may have or try looking for something on a river floodplain if you happen to visit one.

This is more than just a coaster. Its a slice of ecological history and lets you see the harsh winters, balmy summers, the good years and the difficult ones, all as you enjoy a hot drink.

Tree trunk / branch which has been seasoned as is.

Handsaw ( I used a Japanese Razorsaw ) , You could use a bandsaw / tablesaw but where's the fun in that ?

Wirebrush

Sandpaper / Sanding Sheet

Orbital Sander - saves some time but not really needed

Danish oil / Butcherblock Oil / Tung oil / Mineral oil

Clamp / secure the log onto a worktable. This can be difficult if the log is oddly shaped like my sample was.

After a lot of frustration with the log moving about when sawing , I used a rope to tie it down onto the workbench ( my workbench has slots running along the length of the top and is designed to use a set of toggle clamps and other accessories to help hold down wood as I'm working on it.

Using rope and a set of wedges to tighten the rope down works well for such tasks.

Use a handsaw to make a flat cut across the log.

This step sounds simple but with a handsaw, make sure that the saw is sharp and runs true. Wax the blade and use a light cutting action. Don't vary the saw angle as you cut into the wood to avoid undulation and deep saw marks.

This task took me and my brother about 20 minutes, sawing with the razorsaw. Give yourself adequate time and try keep the cut as flat and regular as possible.

Once the first cut is made, start a second cut, parallel to the first, somewhere between 5/16 " and 3/4 " from the freshly cut face. The exact thickness of the coaster will be determined by the type and nature of the wood. Tight grained hardwood can be cut to thinner sections than coarse grained types. Too thin a slice can split off during sawing or finishing. I chose about 16mm for this even though this particular species has excellent grain and doesn't split easily.

Use a medium stiffness wirebrush to brush and clean up the edges of the slice and remove any wood that has rotted away or is too soft. If your log had bark on it, you may choose to leave the bark on for the added aesthetic.

I used a handheld wirebrush and a wire wheel on a drill to slowly clean up the worn wood from the edges.

Once the slice has been wirebrushed, you can begin the process of finishing it. Begin sanding with a 120 grit paper to remove all sawmarks from both faces. Check and ensure that the faces are parallel to each other. Coarse sandpaper can help level the coaster so make sure all of the major material removal and leveling is completed with this grade of sandpaper. Follow this with sanding using 150, 180, 220 grit papers.

Once you have finished sanding it to your satisfaction, coat the coaster with a penetrating oil such as Danish oil or mineral oil. You may choose to soak the coaster in a tray of oil overnight or just brush it in as per the instructions that come with the oil.

Buff lightly to bring out the sheen and enjoy the sight and feel of a wooden coaster that began life a couple of centuries ago.