Lift Up Coffee Table

Ever experienced the problem wanting to dine and watch television at the same time?

A coffee table is the perfect solution to combine both activities. Driven by this unease I created a lift-up coffee table. Watching my favorite series, depositing magazines, drinks and food while watching tv no longer a problem.

First of all, the size of the coffee table is quite large (length × width × height: 110 cm × 60 cm × 70 cm, 43.3 inches × 23.6 inches × 27.6 inches). Depending on your desired size, you should adjust the list of materials. To make welding easier, I chose metal profiles with a wall thickness of 3 mm (0.12 inch). In addition, it is beneficial for the steadiness of the table.

Materials:

· 4 squares tubes 30 mm × 30 mm × 1000 mm (1.2 inches × 1.2 inches × 39.4 inches) with a wall thickness 3 mm (0.12 inches)

· 8 square tubes 30 mm × 30 mm × 500 mm (1.2 inches × 1.2 inches × 39.4 inches) with a wall thickness 3 mm (0.12 inches)

· rod electrodes if you are using an electrode welding machine

· metal primer

· metal paint

· wood plate 110 cm × 60 cm × 2 cm (43.3 inches × 23.6 inches × 0.8 inches)

· wood oil

· lift-up hinges

· screws

· felt pads

· washers

Tools:

· welding machine

· angle grinder

· (cinder) hammer

· wire brush

· drill

· tap

· air compressor (optional)

· spray gun (optional)

· sanding machine

For a better welding result, it is important to deburring the edges of the square tubes. I bought the metal online since local shops were closed during corona pandemic. First, I cleaned the metal tubes from excess graphite. As a next step, I filed the sharp edges of the metal for better handling.

The lift-up hinges are an essential part of the coffee table. You can get these from bigger online platform by searching for “Lift up coffee table”. They usually cost around 15-25$ per set. To create a solid connection between the hinges and the metal frame use threaded bolts. To assure good access to the square tube I created the thread before welding. The bottom of the hinges had to align with the profile so it can´t be seen from the side.

For a seamless joint of the metal tubes, four of the short profiles and four of the longer profiles needs to get a miter cut. So, in the next step the metal can be connected to a sealed tube. I have used an angle grinder in a special mount to create a precise corner. As a tip, if you have the chance to get a miter cut at your local dealer just invest the few extra bugs because it saves you a lot of work. I used a wooden block as a stopper therefore I don’t have to measure every corner. Make sure the square tubes with the threads point in the right direction. After cutting the tubes and filing the sharp edges it is time for the next step.

Since I am not the best welder, furthermore, being a bloody beginner don´t try to learn welding skills by this Instructable.

For the frame I´ve first created two parts by welding two longer and two shorter tubes with a miter cut together. One of the parts has the two tubes with the threads installed. To connect these tubes in an 90° angle, I used an angular magnet and an angular gauge. For a temporary connection and less warp use welding points. After the four tubes are connected the slag can be removed and the remaining gap can be filled with a weld seam. The weld beads had to be removed by an angle grinder. The two parts are connected with the remaining four square tubes. Make sure the part with the threads is pointing in the right direction. When the welding seams are generally satisfactory, it is time for the next step.

For a durable painted surface, it is important that the metal don´t have any remaining dirt such as graphite or welding droplets. The frame is sprayed with a layer of primer. After its dry the first layer of metal paint can be applied. Make sure that you don´t miss any spots. Depending on your paint one layer is enough.

In my case the hinges are higher than the square tubes. As a result, the plate rest in case of a folded coffee table on the hinges only. To create a rest for the plate I used washers and screws to create an offset between plate and frame. A felt pad prevent the contact between the plate and the screws. The washers are used to adjust the high of the wood plate.

For the wood plate I used an old tabletop which wasn´t in a good shape anymore. I cut the plate into the right size and removed the old clear coat. Therefore, I used a sanding machine, also get rid of scratches in the surface. I first used 80er grid paper followed by 120er and 240er grid paper.

For a natural look of the wood plate I don´t want to use paint. To create a more durable plate, use wood oil. This is applied with a brush or like I did with a cloth. Make sure you wear gloves even if it´s natural oil. It is important to apply oil also on the underside, so the plate stays flat.

With all parts complete it is time for the final assembly. Screw the hinges to the frame. Use a washer to create distance between the moving part of the hinge and the frame. After positioning the plate at the right spot, it can be screwed to the frame. In a last step additional felt pads are added under the table to prevent damages to the floor. To be clear, damaged from the floor to the table isn´t a thing.

If you like this Instructable, have no qualms about giving me a thumbs up! Besides if you have questions or suggestions for improvement, I really like reading your notes in the comments!