LED Copper- Plywood Lamp
Ryan A, Amber, Ryan M, Matthew, Finley and Waldo- all Year 12 (age 14/15) designed this lamp themselves based on their plumbing, joinery and electrical classes. We are an SEN school therefore practical input is so important for us.
This took the pupils approx 2-3 hours to complete (except for the overnight PVA stage).
Supplies
Wood
Plywood (7 ply) was cut using the tenon saw.
Wood size.
Size A - largest- base. 26 x 21cm
Size B - medium size- middle. 21 x 17cm
Size C - Smallest size, top piece. 17 x 13cm
Router with edging bit
Sandpaper
10mm drill bit
16mm flat bit
Drill
Wood stain- Mahogany varnish
Copper 15mm
15mm length- 60cm
Copper pipe slice
Wire wool
x2 15mm brass clips with 4 brass screws
x2 15 mm Copper T joints
x4 15mm elbow compression joints
Sliding Wrench
Electrical
1 meter 0.75mm flat 2 core wire
1 plug
1 inline switch
1 E27 Antique lamp holder, Edison screw
Edison screw bulb- we could not decide on the most suitable bulb to fit so we have displayed both options.
3 (7-ply) were cut to sizes A, B and C.
To prevent tear-out the sides of the ply (A, B and C) were taped and routed edge created in a clockwise fashion.
All ply were gently sanded using sandpaper.
The 3 pieces were glued together with PVA overnight to make the plinth base.
Finding the centre of the top piece (C) drill to a depth of 50mm using a Flat bit (this is where the T copper joint will sit).
Align the wood and drill into the A piece using the 10mm bit so these 2 holes meet- this is to create a channel for the electrical wire to pass through.
(Optional- We stained our ply with Mahogany stain varnish).
Pass the electrical wire though the 10mm hole first, into the wood and up, exiting the 16mm hole.
Copper Frame
- Using the pipe slice cut x4 4.0cm of the 15mm copper
- Using the pipe slice cut x2 23.0cm of the 15mm copper.
- Arrange as per image.
- Pull additional wire through the ply.
- 1 feed wire into the T joint (pass the wire either through the left of right of the T joint- see image we passed the wire to the left).
- Pass wire into 1 of the 4.0cm copper pieces, pass wire next into an elbow joint then to the 23cm piece.
- Pass wire into the 2nd elbow joint then into another 4.0cm straight copper piece that is connect to another T- joint.
(DO NOT TIGHTEN the compression fittings -at this point you need flexibility in the wire to connect the lamp).
8.Once the wire has been passed through the T-piece connect the lamp.
9.Once completed, gently pull the wire so the top of the lamp is close to the T -piece- see image.
10.Assemble and complete the other side of the copper frame.
11.Using the sliding wrench tighten the elbow nuts- the T-joints do not need soldered as the brass copper pipe clips and elbow joints provide the strength.
The lamp has a ceramic interior that can be easily broken- be careful.
The copper frame will be rigid.
Gently raise the frame over the plinth so the bottom T-joint sits over the 16mm hole in the plinth (C piece).
Open the Brass 15mm pipe clips tightening screw and fit over the copper pipe- looks better with the tightening screw of the clip facing the front of the lamp.
The clips are placed and fitted on either side of the T- joint.
Ensure the clips are fitted equidistant to each other- attach to the plinth with 4 brass screws.
Electrical.
- Connect the inline switch
- Connect the mains plug
- We could not decide with bulb was most suitable. the Round LED of the long filament.
- 2 different bulbs fitted for comparison.
We could not decide which bulb was most suitable!
The copper is cleaned using wire wool.
Advantages of LED- long term running cost and sustainability V's aesthetically pleasing.
After we discussed our lamp it was decided we will make the copper frame in a triangular shape in keeping with the plinth format.
Ryan A, Amber, Ryan M, Matthew, Finley and Waldo all throughly enjoyed the lamp manufacture.
As a Special School based in Belfast, Northern Ireland we look forward to enter more competitions.
Thanks for this opportunity to showcase our work.