How to Make the Omniwing Swift Paper Airplane

Very fast, long range and stealthy, the Omniwing Swift is a flying wing paper airplane derived from the larger Omniwing Zeta.

The concept of the Omniwing Swift preceded the Omniwing Zeta, despite the latter's ultimately earlier publication. The Swift was originally intended to serve as a half-scale testbed for the Zeta's design, exploring the viability of whether or not the design would work. Ultimately, the Swift was not built before the Zeta was proceeded with because I elected to proceed with full scale work on the Zeta immediately.

The Omniwing Swift as it is presented here came into being in late 2016, as a result of my decision to produce a standardized aircraft which could complement the original Omniwing by menamiketrx. The design draws substantially upon the Zeta, but there are some unique parts that differentiate the two.

Flight testing of the Omniwing Swift showed it to be an excellent performer, and combined with its very unique shape, it was quickly deemed worthy of a published tutorial.

TAA USAF Designation: F3-8A

Required:

4 Pieces of 8.5 inch by 11 inch Paper

1 Post-It (3 inch by 3 inch)

Tape

Scissors

Ruler

Pencil

Optional:

Paper clips (for use during construction)

Fold the paper in half along its length and then in half along its width. After making these folds, unfold the paper. Fold the paper along its width again as shown in the sixth photo. Cut (or tear) the paper along the length half crease as shown in the seventh photograph and select one of the two resulting halves for usage. Retain the other half that you do not use for the remainder of this step. This piece will become SS-1 in the step 4. (Pictures 1 to 7)

Once you have prepared the half you will be working with, begin by measuring 1.5 inches from edge of the paper along the length side and make a mark. Along the width edge of the paper, measure 1 inch from the same corner along the width and make a mark as pictured. After doing this, make a diagonal line between these marks and cut while both paper are aligned over top of one another. This should result in the papers being symmetrical about the taped center line. (Photographs 8 to 14)

Along the width, measure 0.25 inches back from the mark made previously and make another mark. Along the length, measure 0.375 inches. Fold down the paper so the crease connects these two marks and repeat on the other side. (Photographs 15 to 19)

Repeating the process, measure 0.5 inch back from the crease along the width and mark and measure 0.3125 inches from the crease along the length edge and make a mark. Once again, connect the new marks with a diagonal fold. (Photographs 20 to 24)

After completing the last fold, measure 0.3125 inches from the crease along the width and mark; then measure 0.5 inch down from the crease along the length and make a mark. Make another diagonal fold to connect these two marks and repeat on the other side. (Photographs 25 to 29)

After completing the last fold, measure 0.25 inches from the crease along the width and mark; then measure 1 inch down from the crease along the length and make a mark. Make a fold to connect these two marks and repeat on the other side. (Photographs 30 to 34)

After completing the last fold, mark a line and fold between the forward corner of the taped center edge to the wingtip without creasing the existing folds again. (Photographs 35 to 37)

While the aircraft is folded in half along its taped center crease, measure 1.5 inches forward of the trailing edge at center crease and make a mark. Measure 0.5 inches forward of the trailing edge along the wingtip and make a mark. (Photographs 1 to 2)

Connect these marks with a diagonal line. Before cutting, apply a paper clip to the outer sections on each side of the line as shown to hold them together. Cut along the diagonal line and save the pieces of paper you cut off. These will become pieces SK-1 later. Remove the paper clips after making the cut. (Photographs 3 to 5)

Measure 2 inches from the center crease along the trailing edge and make a mark. Measure a further 1.5 inches from this mark and make another mark. (Photographs 6 to 8)

Parallel with the center crease, measure 0.375 inches inward from each mark and make lines to the trailing edge. From the outboard mark, measure 0.0625 inches toward the inboard mark and make another mark as shown. Connect this new mark with the outboard line's inner end. With the wing still folded in half along its center crease, cut along the outer two lines, then the diagonal one as shown. (Photographs 9 to 14)

When laid out flat, the airframe should appear as it does in photograph 15.

With the sheet of paper you retained from step 2, separate the paper along the existent half fold. Select one of these halves for usage as SS-1; keep the other, as it will become SS-2L/R in the next step. (Photographs 1 to 2)

Using one of these halves, fold the paper in half along the length and width to divide it into fourths. Once they have been made into fourths, separate the fourths from one another. (Photographs 3 to 8)

Working with one of the fourths, fold the paper in half along its length and then unfold. Fold the paper in half along its width and then again unfold. Fold the paper's width edges into its center. (Photographs 9 to 15)

Use your pencil to accentuate the width half fold. (Photographs 16 to 17)

Fold the paper in half along its length half folds with the width edge folds on the outside of the paper. With the paper oriented like this, measure 0.375 inches inward from each edge and mark as shown in the nineteenth photograph. Unfold the paper and draw a line between these two marks. (Photographs 18 to 21)

Unfold the paper entirely, then fold it along its existent length fold. Cut along the solid line you made in the last and then restore the existent folds. (Photographs 22 to 27)

With the half of paper you saved on the last step, fold the paper in half along its width and length to divide it into fourths. After folding the paper in half along its length, pull the length edges outward and down on each side to make fourth folds. (Photographs 1 to 8)

Open the paper along the length half fold, the pull the outer edge in to the length half crease again. When you have done this, fold one side over the half fold again. (Photographs 9 to 12)

Accentuate the width half crease of the paper and, with the open edge facing toward the maker, mark the left half as SS-2L and the right half as SS-2R. From the width half crease, measure 0.25 inches to each side of the width half crease along the open edge. (Photographs 13 to 14)

Between the marks you have made and the width half crease's forward edge, make a diagonal line to cut along. Cut along the width half crease to separate pieces SS-2L and SS-2R. After doing this, cut along the two diagonal lines. (Photographs 15 to 17)

Pieces SS-2L and SS-2R are now completed.

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You will need to create a third SS-2 piece, SS-2C. Begin work on the SS-3 in the next step before returning to to this step to make SS-2C. The fourth of paper that you will make SS-2C out of will be an unused portion of the paper used to make SS-3.

After repeating all of the above instructions on this step to make SS-2C, open it along its center fold. It should appear as it does in photograph 18.

With a new sheet of paper, fold the paper in half along its length and width to divide it into fourths. After doing this, divide the paper along these creases to separate the fourths. Retain one of these fourths for continued construction of SS-3 while other fourths should be placed aside to create SS-2C (which you will need to complete the final portion of step 5) and SS-5L/R (which will be created on step 8). (Photographs 1 to 6)

With the fourth you have selected to construct SS-3, fold the paper in half along its length and width to divide it
into fourths. Cut along the length-wise center crease. Keep the remaining paper below--this will become SS-4 in the next step. (Photographs 7 to 14)

With this new and smaller piece, again fold the paper up in half along its length center crease and pull the length sides' edges into the center crease to create new fourth folds. (Photographs 15 to 18)

Fold the length edges of the paper into the center again to make eighth folds. After you have done this, fold the eighths over top of one another. (Photographs 19 to 22)

Accentuate the width center crease with your pencil; with the open edge facing toward the maker constructing the piece and identify side as SS-3L and the right as SS-3R. With this done, cut along the width half fold to bisect the paper. (Photographs 23 to 25)

On SS-3L, measure 1.125 inches from the inboard half mark you just cut previously. On SS-3R, measure 1.125 inches from the inboard half mark you just cut previously. (Photographs 26 to 27)

Using the piece of paper that was saved and identified as SS-4 in the previous step, fold the paper into halves lengthwise. Pull the edges of the length sides on each side into the center crease to create fourth folds. (Photographs 1 to 4)

After doing this, pull creased edges into the center again on each side to create eighth folds. Once you have done this, fold one side of eighth folds over the other. (Photographs 5 to 8)

Use your pencil to accentuate the width half fold to make the centerpoint readily identifable and mark the piece as "SS-4." (Photographs 9 to 10)

Using one of the fourths of paper you retained from step 6, prepare to make the piece of the supporting structure that will be identified as SS-5.

Fold the paper in half along its length and width to divide it into fourths. After folding it into fourths, fold the paper up along its length half crease and then pull the outer edges of the crease down to the center crease as shown. (Photographs 1 to 9)

With the fourth folds still folded, pull the length creases in again to make eighth folds. Pull the eighth folds over themselves. (Photographs 10 to 16)

Accentuate the width half crease with pencil marking and then cut it to separate the paper into pieces SS-5L and SS-5R. After separating pieces SS-5L and SS-5R, orient the two pieces vertically with the open ended sides facing one another. (Photographs 17 to 19)

Along the open ended side of the SS-5L, measure 0.25 inches forward of the width sides of each and make a mark as shown. When you have done this, measure 0.125 inches from the width sides of each and make a mark as shown. Connect the two marks with a solid line. Cut the small portion below the line away. (Photographs 20 to 23)

Along the open ended side of the SS-5R, measure 0.25 inches forward of the width sides of each and make a mark as shown. When you have done this, measure 0.125 inches from the width sides of each and make a mark as shown. Connect the two marks with a solid line. Cut the small portion below the line away. (Photographs 24 to 28)

Unfold the SS-5L piece and measure 1.125 inches up from the pointed edge as shown; mark at this point. From this mark, measure a further 0.375 inches further and make another mark. Connect these two marks with a solid line. Punch through this solid line with your pencil to create a slit in the paper. After doing this, fold the piece back together again. (Photographs 29 to 34)

Unfold the SS-5R piece and measure 1.125 inches up from the pointed edge as shown; mark at this point. From this mark, measure a further 0.375 inches further and make another mark. Connect these two marks with a solid line. Punch through this solid line with your pencil to create a slit in the paper. After doing this, fold the piece back together again. (Photographs 35 to 39)

Slide piece SS-4 through the slits of SS-5L/R to ensure these parts to be fit together. (Photograph 40)

To improve their fit on the aircraft, we must revisit and trim SS-2C. (Photograph 1)

Begin with the SS-2C part by folding it along its center crease again. Measure 0.0625 inches up the creased side from the flat trailing edge and make a mark. Make a perpendicular line from this mark to the other side. After making this line, cut along it. You may discard the small bit you cut off. (Photographs 2 to 4)

Along the both sides of pieces SS-5L/R, measure 0.125 inches up from the trailing edge and make marks. Connect these two marks with a solid line and cut along this solid line. Discard the small chunks you have separated. (Photographs 5 to 12)

When you have completed the specified trimming, put the SS-4 piece through SS-5L/R and under SS-2C to again confirm that the parts fit as designed. (Photograph 13)

Flip over the subassembly to tape piece SS-4 to the ventral side of piece SS-2C. After doing this, tape pieces SS-5L and SS-5R to SS-2C on both the ventral and dorsal sides. (Photographs 14 to 16)

Place the SS-2L and SS-2R pieces next to one another flush; open them and apply tape to their lower internal joint as shown in the third photograph. To enhance strength, flip the assembly over and apply tape to the side opposite where you just applied tape. (Photographs 1 to 5)

Opening the now connected SS-2 pieces, apply tape here designated in the seventh photograph. (Photographs 6 to 8)

With the SS-2 pieces secured together and taped accordingly, the SS-3 pieces will now be integrated. To do this, place piece SS-3L into piece SS-2L piece until the marks you made earlier on SS-3L match the edges of SS-2L. Apply tape where designated in the photograph and in the order given. (Photographs 9 to 10)

You will now repeat this process on the other side. Place piece SS-3R into piece SS-2R piece until the marks you made earlier on SS-3R match the edges of SS-2R. Apply tape where designated in the photograph and in the order given. (Photographs 11 to 12)

Bring the forward and rear structural assemblies together as shown. Fit the rear support structure subassembly through the slit you made in SS-1 earlier. The folded sides of SS-1 should face inward. (Photograph 1)

Once the two subassemblies are put into position together, it is time to secure them to one another with tape. Apply tape at the points designated in the photographs to ensure structural integrity. (Photographs 2 to 4)

Flip the assembly over and apply tape in the places designated to secure the ventral side of SS-1 to SS-2L and SS-2R. (Photographs 5 to 6)

To complete the assembly, tuck the trailing parts of the SS-2L/R into the SS-4 while the SS-4's own edges should be tucked into the SS-3s as shown. When this is done, apply tape where designated to secure the parts. (Photographs 7 to 12)

Fold the dorsal side of SS-1 forward (over the SS-2L/R joint) and tape it as shown. (Photographs 13 to 15)

Keep both skin pieces together and flush with one another when making these changes throughout this step.

Along the straight trailing edge, measure 0.375 inches upward from the center crease and make a mark. Then connect this mark with the meeting point of the leading edge and center crease with a diagonal line. (Photographs 2 to 3)

Along the swept leading edge, measure 1.875 inches inward from the outer tips and make a mark. Along the straight trailing edge, measure 2.25 inches from the outer tips and make a mark. Connect these two marks with a diagonal line. Cut along this diagonal line and discard the noted portions to complete the skins. (Photographs 4 to 7)

Cut away the portion of the paper beneath the diagonal line you made to follow photograph 3 to separate and ready the two skin panels. (Photographs 8 to 9)

Align one of the two skin pieces over the leading edges of SS-2L. After this, apply four pieces of tape along the leading edge span of the skin, connecting it to the SS-2L piece. In addition, the trailing edge should be taped down at the SS-2C/SS-5L joint. (Photographs 1 to 3)

Pull the skin under itself until it reaches its limits as shown in the fifth photograph. Apply tape as pictured where the skin overlaps with the SS-2/SS-3/SS-4 joint. (Photographs 4 to 6)

Align the other of the two skin pieces over the leading edges of SS-2R. After this, apply four pieces of
tape along the leading edge span of the skin, connecting it to the SS-2R piece. In addition, the trailing edge should be taped down at the SS-2C/SS-5R joint. (Photographs 7 to 9)

Pull the skin under itself until it reaches its limits as shown in the eleventh photograph. Apply tape as pictured where the skin overlaps with the SS-2/SS-3/SS-4 joint. (Photographs 10 to 12)

This process will have finished the construction of the internal structure. (Photograph 13)

Lay the airframe out flat as you prepare to mate it with the internal structure. Place the internal structure in and then push its forward edges up into line with the creases of the airfoil folds. Apply tape where designated to secure the internal structure in place. (Photographs 1 to 3)

Apply tape to the trailing edges of both sides of the internal structure to secure it to the wings' surface. (Photographs 4 to 5)

Tape the rear edges of the leading edges to the surface of the wings on both sides. (Photographs 5 to 8)

With the adhesive area of the Post-It facing toward you, measure the 3 inch Post-It and make 4 marks at intervals of 0.5 inches. (Photographs 1 to 2)

From each of these marks, make a vertical line from the marks perpendicular to the edge of the Post-It. (Photograph 3)

From the edge of the Post-It, measure 0.75 inches inward before stopping. Make a mark on one of the lines then make a line perpendicular to the others which intersects with the existing mark. (Photographs 4 to 5)

From this horizontal line, measure 0.5 inches vertically up one of the existent vertical lines and make a mark. From this mark, make another horizontal line. (Photographs 6 to 7)

From the two outboard vertical lines, measure 0.375 inches away from each on each side and make marks. From these marks, make diagonal lines which connect with the first horizontal line you made. The Post-It should now appear as it does in photograph 9. (Photographs 8 to 9)

From the original horizontal line, measure 0.375 inches toward the edge of the paper and make a mark. At this mark, then make another horizontal line as shown in photograph 10. (Photographs 9 to 10)

Cutting out the stabilizers together from the Post-It as shown in photograph 1 After making the three vertical and horizontal cuts specified, cut off the diagonal bits also separated off by the lines and fold along the remaining horizontal line. When this is done correctly, the stabilizers should appear as they do in photograph 2. (Photographs 1 to 2)

Apply the stabilizers to the wing as shown in photograph 3. The inboard stabilizers' adhesive bases should sit inboard of the vertical stabilizers themselves. The outboard stabilizers' adhesive bases should sit outboard of the vertical stabilizers themselves. (Photograph 3)

Flip the airframe over (without damaging the fins, which should be allowed to lay flat under the flipped wing) and cut off the noted overhanging portions of the inboard stabilizers' bases. When you have complete this, flip the airframe back over again. (Photographs 4 to 5)

Fold the fins down again to fold the elevators. They elevators should be folded forward to the limits established by the cuts you made earlier. After you have folded and creased the elevators at these limits, you may unfold the fins and reset the elevators' deflection to ~40 degrees nose up as pictured. (Photographs 6 to 9)

This will have completed your Omniwing Swift!

The Omniwing Swift is similar in its handling characteristics to other fast flying wing paper airplanes. Origami aviators who have used the UltraDelta, Turbo AeroDelta or similar Omniwing Zeta should be able to adapt to working with the Omniwing Swift quickly. (For those who are newer, I recommend training with the Turbo AeroDelta before using the Omniwing Swift).

Launches should be done at neutral or very slightly positive attitudes at moderate to high speed. To launch the Omniwing Swift, hold it with all fingers above the wing and only your thumb beneath it. Do not throw the airplane; instead, advance it forward until releasing it at the desired speed.

Elevator deflection is usually to be set around 40 to 45 degrees; determine if this needs to be adjusted by conducting test flights.

If yaw stability needs correction, adjust the vertical stabilizers' trimming as shown to be necessary by test flights. If roll stability needs correction, you may adjust the elevators' deflection and/or at ailerons for trimming.

Enjoy!

Your support in the Papercraft Contest would be appreciated!

-OAE