How to Make a Leather Pull Tab Minimalist Wallet (Free Template!)

Ever since I first saw one of these pull tab card wallets, I’ve wanted to try to figure out how to make one, so that’s exactly what I did. The pull tab works by being attached inside the wallet to the back piece, and then it runs underneath the cards and out the front of the wallet. When the tab is pulled, the cards get pulled out of the wallet. When you push the cards back into the wallet, the pull tab retracts back into the wallet as well. Really simple, but a fun little detail to set your wallets apart! This could also be used as business card holder…just a thought!

(Affiliate Links):

· Leather (3-3.5oz) - https://districtleathersupply.com/

· Rotary Cutter - https://amzn.to/2uTr1yd

· Leather Marking Pen - https://amzn.to/30pEEAV

· Sinabroks Pricking Irons - https://sinabroks.com/

· Punch Pad - https://amzn.to/3oGTUVt

· Edge Rougher - https://amzn.to/2SxCcWP

· Thread - https://amzn.to/2NvIdAf

· EcoWeld Adhesive - https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/ecoweld-water-based-contact-adhesive

· Disposable Foam Brushes - https://amzn.to/2QWAD3X

· Tokonole Burnishing Gum - https://amzn.to/2NvnEEl

· Edge Slicker - https://amzn.to/3ubhfB1

· Micro Mesh Sanding Pads - https://amzn.to/3mbKDEp

To figure out the size to make the wallet, I started by making a template out of some cardstock

First, I traced a card

Then to make sure I had enough space for multiple cards and the stitch line I added a little over a quarter inch or 10/32nds to be exact, to both sides and the bottom

Next, I used the cut-out template to score some cut lines on the leather I was using

Once everything was laid out, I used my rotary cutter to cut the matching front and back pieces

Then I moved on to figuring out the pull tab that will be used to pull the cards out of the wallet

The pull tab works by being attached inside the wallet to the back piece

It then runs underneath the cards and out the front of the wallet

For the pull tab, I used a 3/4th of an inch-wide piece of leather attached an inch and a quarter from the top

Based on the width of the pull tab, I used my marking pen to sketch out where to glue the strap

In addition to the glue, I also decided to add some stitching to reinforce it

To mark out the stitching line, I drew a square slightly smaller then the strap on the template and then cut it out

I then used the template to score the stitching box on the outside of the wallet back

Because I was going to be gluing the finished side of the strap to the wallet, I used me edge rougher to scratch up the portion to be glued which helps the adhesive bond better

I then used some of Tandy Leather’s EcoWeld adhesive to glue the strap in place

You simply apply some to each piece, wait for it to get tacky and then stick them together

Once that had dried, I used my pricking irons to punch the stitching holes and then saddle stitched the two pieces together

I’ll go into more details about this process later in the video

Next, I moved on to cutting the slot for the pull tab to exit the wallet on the front piece

I ended up making the slot a half an inch from the top

To keep the leather from ripping, I punched a hole at each end of the slot and then connected them with my X-Acto

To attach the front and the back pieces, I again used Tandy Leather’s EcoWeld Adhesive

Then I pulled the strap through the slot on the front

I also added another piece of leather at the end of the strap to make it easier to grab and to prevent it from getting pulled back into the wallet

Next, I used my wing dividers to score a stitch line

Then I used my pricking irons to punch the stitching holes

To ensure the spacing between each hole stays consistent as I work my way down the line, I always make sure to place the stitching chisel point furthest to the left in the last hole of the previous set of holes I punched

I made a video dedicated to leather stitching where I go in depth into the process of how to do this saddle stitch and others and here’s a link if you want to check it out https://youtu.be/PNy6wGvmww8

But at a high level, what I’ve found is easiest is to just pick a sequence and then stick to that

For example, I always start using the right needle to stich from the back and then stitch the left needle from the front into the same hole but in front & under the right needles thread.

If you continue this sequence, you’ll get a very nice-looking stitch pattern in my experience

With the stitching done, I moved on to cleaning up and burnishing the edges

There are tons of ways to burnish edges, but here’s what I’ve found is easiest

I start by using some 220 grit sand paper to sand the edges flush which I already did earlier

Then I use some Tokonole Leather Finish to burnish the edges

I spread a small amount on the edges with my finger, rub it in a little, and then run my edge slicker back and forth along the edge

You could stop there and it would look pretty good, but if you want a really nice edge finish I do a couple more steps

I start by using these micro mesh sanding pads to work the edge all the way up to 12000 grit

Then I apply one more thin layer of Tokonole on the edge again and use a piece of canvas to sort of polish the edges

I really like the Tokonole and think it’s totally worth the price, but you can also use a piece of beeswax instead

And with that, the wallet was done!

Thanks so much for following along with this project! I’d love to know what you think. Leave a comment below and don’t forget to watch the video on my channel!

See you on the next project!