How I Made My Own Mini Saregame Carva
by Tarun Kumar Dahake in Circuits > Speakers
1627 Views, 9 Favorites, 0 Comments
How I Made My Own Mini Saregame Carva
Hey everyone! Today I'm going to show you how I built this super own mini Saregame Carva - an excellent companion for these summer months! I've been designing, refining, and tweaking this speaker design over the past few months, and I'm happy to say that it's now as simple, affordable, good looking and good sounding as it can possibly be! This speaker is based around a 3 cell battery, all wrapped up in a multi-layer plywood enclosure.
Specs: 15W output per Channel Bluetooth 3.0 with Charging 12-hour battery life on high volume(Optional) function buttons Four and design Here's a build video for the speaker. However, I go into much more detail here on Instructables than in the video.
Parts List:
To make things easier, I have put together kits of the speaker parts needed, however, all the parts can also be found separately. All the parts linked are shipped internationally from Central and Western Europe so shipping times are a lot faster compared to india. Alternatively you can even just use this Instructable as inspiration/guidance if you're a more experienced builder, and find your own parts.
1 3W Speaker Amazon
2 amplifier board Amazon
3 Bluetooth Kit Amazon
4 Step Down Power Supply Module Amazon
5 3s charger bms Amazon
6 Battery 18650 3x Amazon
7 Switch Amazon
Enclosure 1
I made the enclosure by using 4mm balsa wood. The complete enclosure has 6 parts :
1. Front & Back Panels (15 x 7 cm )
2. Top & Bottom Panels ( 4 x 12 cm)
3. Left & Panels ( 4 x 6 cm) It is not mandatory to use balsa wood, you can use plywood / pinewood / MDF also.
Cutting the Rings
To start off, we will get a piece of 10mm plywood. It's important to use a good quality piece plywood for extra rigidity. Make sure that the plywood is straight and square on 2 sides. We will now use our 3mm plywood panels to trace out 2 shapes. Using a ruler we will retrace the shape 4mm inside of the original. The material left inside the inner line drawn will need to be taken out. Using a 16mm drill bit we will drill a hole in the corner of each traced shape . We can then get a jigsaw (or coping saw), and join the dots! Since I traced both shapes next to each other, I now need to separate them. I will do this using a table saw, in order to get the most accurate line possible.
Once cut out, we will have 2 rectangular shapes (with the insides cut hallowed out). We now just need to round off the sides. We can again do this using our jigsaw/coping saw.
Schematic Diagram
The schematic diagram is pretty simple. The heart of the circuit is the 3S bms board. It charges the 18650 battery and disconnects the load when the battery voltage drops below the threshold limit.
The output terminal of the 3s is connected to the following:
1. Bluetooth Amplifier Module
2. Switch
3.dc Boost Converter
4. 3s bms
Making the Speaker Circuit
he speaker terminals are marked with polarity. I soldered the speaker terminal wires that comes with Bluetooth amplifier module. The Red wire is positive and black wire is negative.
Then connect the wires to the Bluetooth Amplifier module as shown in the schematic diagram.
Charging, Switch, and Stepped Up Voltage:
Charging is going to take place through a 12v 3s bms charging board. You've more than likely seen these boards before. They're great. We're going to connect the wires from the protection board to the charging board (refer to the schematic in step 2). Our output wires from the charging board will also branch off to the step up module. But before they go there, we will need to add a switch so that we can turn on and off the speaker. We will solder on a slide switch on the positive cable.
The purpose of the step up module is in its name, it's used to step the voltage of the battery up, so that its the ideal voltage for the Bluetooth and amplifier board 12v . The BT and Amp board requires 5 volts, so before connecting it, we will step the voltage up. This is done by twisting the blue potentiometer anti clockwise until we get the reading we are after. At this time, we will also add the capacitor to the output of the step up module. The capacitor will go across the positive and negative contacts, with the longer leg of the capacitor going to the positive contact.
Mounting the Electronics
Now it's time to mount the electronics! We'll start with the battery. Add plenty of hot glue to the enclosure, and then stick it in place. We will then move on to glueing down the switch and charging board - probably the most difficult part of the project! It's very important to make sure that no air can escape through the either of these parts. Be clever with how you apply your hot glue, to ensure that it gets in every gap!Don't rely on your slide switch to be internally air tight. Completely glue over the whole switch and surrounding wires to make sure that absolutely no air can escape!!
Next we'll glue down the step up module and bluetooth and amp board. I decided to mount the bluetooth and amp board to the roof of the speaker, so that there would be less obstacles between the bluetooth board's antenna and the connected phone. Avoid glueing the board right next to your battery as it decreases signal strength.
The Finished Product!
Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you learnt something new/got some new ideas. If you've ever built a speaker, I'd love to see it! Feel free to post it down below for everyone to see! I also have a 'community speaker album' on Facebook where you can share your designs and expertise with others, and make new friends from around the world. Have a brilliant day, and I'll see you on social media/in the next Instructable! :)
If you think this Instructable is worthy of your vote in the competitions it's entered in, I would really appreciate it. Thanks! :)