Easy Kayak Trailer/Cart

Hello fellow kayakers! Here's a pretty simple kayak trailer/cart that requires very few materials and tools to make. I never intended to make this into an Instructable, but after using it, I figured I had too share the idea. The great thing about this is that it can be tweaked and redone to suit any kayak and attach almost anything from bikes to ATVs. PLEASE feel free to leave all criticism, ideas, and comments on here. I'm only 16 and this is my first instructable so everything helps. Thanks alot!

*EDIT*
Today this was tested with a 100lbs person sitting  in the back while I lugged it around. It held up quite nicely. The only thing I might change is  the space beteen the tires and the kayak. If she tilted a little bit the wheels would rub a little bit.

MATERIALS
Now, every kayak will be different. So your sizes will change depending on your kayak. Heres a rough list of what you'll need.
2- 12" cuts of 2" PVC piping.-I used the thick walled gray stuff
2- 25" cuts of 1/2" PVC
2- Lawn Mower Tires Or Whatever You Have
12" of 90 degree bend metal plus some for later. (See Picture 2)
2- 3" Bolts and nuts to go with it

The length of my 2" PVC is based off the distance of my scupper holes. For sit-in kayaks, just make sure its at least 3/4 of your kayaks width or more, and the 1/2" might have to be longer than 25" so you have enough ground clearance.

TOOLS
Drill-For Putting Holes In PVC and In Metal
Saw capable of cutting through PVC (ie; Bow Saw, Hack Saw, etc.)
Welder-To weld a wall on the angled metal so your wheels can attach, but there can be many alternatives to the "Axle" design that don't involve a welder
Grinder-To cut out square to be welded on

NOTICE
Now I use the angled metal and such for strength. You could very easily just take a long axel and string it through to your wheels. It would make things a bit easier, but I'm a complicated man.

I measured out about 10" between scuppers and marked it on my 2" PVC. Then I took a stone type drill bit and drilled holes on both ends of the pipe, front and back just BARELY big enough for the 1/2" to fit. We want a tight fit. I did this to both the 2" pipes. Getting the two holes to line up can be tough, but if there a little off, dont worry about it. When you put everything together it'll only add tention on it and make everything tighter.

Now with your 2 drilled pipes. Start to slide the 1/2" through  all the holes made. I left 5 inches sticking out the back, and 4 sticking out the front.

Now I say this is optional because you could always just use an axle design or make something up yourself. You could even just make the axle, slide in through some 1/2" or 1/4" PVC then attach it too the main frame and not use any metal at all. But I went with the metal design for this. So, the 90 degree metal I used was 1.5" by 1.5" and 12' long, so I cut out two 1.5x1.5" squares to be welded on the ends. Then once it was welded, I drilled a hole right in the center of the square so my wheel bolt could go through and be tightened.

Next I found the center where the 2" and 1/2" line up and drilled a hole through it big enough to allow my 3" bolt go through. Make sure your drilling the backside tho where the 5" is sticking out.

This part can be kinda tricky. You need to drill holes in the metal so they line up with the holes in the PVC exactly. You can just measure the holes and mark the spot. Make sure there big enough for your bolt again!

Now just slide the bolts through the PVC and metal and fasten the nut down so its nice and snug. I like to make the nut face the ground. Makes it look neater. You may tighten them down with a  wrench if you like, but if you plan on collapsing this, chances are you wont be able to get the nuts off without the wrench.

So to keep the kayak from sliding around like crazy, I cut groves so it rests nicely and is almost cradled. You have a few options here that you can do. What I did was I took a grinder to it. Just making a "V". MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CUT TO DEEP! You don't have to worry much about the back because it has the metal support, but if you cut the front to shallow, it'll flex to much and you'll have to replace it and it might rub the tire too. You can also use any of those saws mentioned earlier or even a sander if you want. Whatever works for you. I went quick and made it kinda sloppy, but it works just fine so you don't need to worry too much.
WARNING
If you use a grinder, wear glasses and do it outside because it leaves a BIG mess.

What I do is I run a ratchet strap through the front tube and all the way around up to the seat molding. That way it doesn't slide or slip. Now if your kayak is really long, you'll want to find a way to move it back further or extend the 1/2" pipe longer.

I don't have my license yet. Not for another few weeks here so I haul it around with my bike or my 3-wheeler. I made an extention on my bike and devised a one pin system that goes through the front hole and into a bar on my bike. (Picture 2) Then to take it off all you have to do is pull the pin and unratchet the strap and your good to go. Now you can tweak it however you want to, whether you make it bigger or smaller or outta different materials. And as far as hooking it up to a bike or something, be creative! You can run a  As you can see in picture 3. It has pretty good ground clearance, and if i was ever worried I could just slide the trailer back or slide the 2" PVC Back or forward so it had more length and  was riding more on the tires and less was hanging out. Well THANK YOU for viewing my Instructable! Again if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.