DIY DSLR Camera Slider

Camera sliders are amazing. They allow us to be able to create ultra-smooth tracking shots and dynamic time lapses. They're also really expensive. As a moderate beginner in photography, I could never afford the expensive overpriced gear that was always recommended to get professional shots. However, I also happen to be a pretty competent maker, and I had some 80/20 laying around. This is my attempt at a low budget but moderately capable camera slider that could still achieve professional shots. Enjoy!

Tools

3d Printer (alternatively, you can use a 3d printing service like Digikey's)

Allen wrench

Pliers

Saw

Frame

64 in of 1"x1" aluminum profiling - 80/20.com

80/20 gusset angle brackets (x4) - 80/20.com

3/8" long 1/4-20 socket head bolt for angle brackets (x4) - 80/20.com

80/20 t-nuts (x4) - 80/20.com

Carriage

608-2rs bearings (x4) - Amazon

1 1/2 in long 1/4-20 bolts (x4) - Best found at your local hardware store.

1/4-20 nuts (x4) - Best found at your local hardware store.

3d printed carriage plate. (x1) - file below

3d printed bearing spacers (x4) - file below

For the frame you will need:

2x24" lengths for the main slides;

2x6" lengths for the end stops;

To cut the aluminum, you can use a variety of means. A normal miter saw with a carbide tipped blade would work fine, but be sure to clamp down the profiles, and spray lubricant to cool the blade. Don't forget to where proper PPE including a face shield and gloves!

Arrange the cut profiles in the rectangular pattern as above, with the 24" rails inside the 6" sections Then, slide the T-nuts inside the slots on the profiles, and attach the 90-degree corner brackets. Insert the hex-head bolts, and tighten down the brackets. Don't forget that when placing the T-nuts into the profiles, the flat side is facing the outside, and that the bump is facing the inside. Keep one of the 24" profiles loose so that you can assemble the carriage later.

This step varies on which printer you have access to, but here are the settings I used:

Printer: Prusa i3 mk3s+

Infill: 30%

Filament type: PLA

Raft: no

Extruder Heat: 210 degrees

Bed Heat: 60 degrees

Wall thickness: 3 layers

That last setting is important as all 3d printers have different tolerances and the holes may be too small. This is an easy fix, you just have to drill out the holes with a 1/4" drill bit. For the bearing spacer you may need to slow down the extruder speed as the thin walls have a tendency to fail.

To start, you might need to lubricate the bearings. When first purchased they can be a bit stiff. First, connect the bearings to the spacers, and attach the 1 1/4 long bolt. Be sure to reference the picture, as direction is important. Then, insert the 4 nuts into the slots on the slider plate. Finally, screw the bearing assembly into the nuts, and tighten them down gently.

Squeeze one of the main rails in and slip the carriage over the profiles. Then, move the carriage to one end of the frame and expand the profiles until they support the carriage. be sure that the bearings are aligned inside the slot. When it is lined up, tighten the hex nut on that side of the rails. Then, move the carriage to the other side and repeat the process. When the bolt is tightened, move the carriage back and forth. If it is too loose, repeat the process, but move the rails further outside. If it is difficult to move, decrease the gap between the rails. If the carriage is moving smoothly, then you are almost done! The last step is to attach the camera. There are many ways to achieve this, ranging in complexity and cost. The simplest way is to just thread a short 1/4-20 bolt through the bottom of the plate straight into the camera. If you want to have more control over the angle and the direction, a tripod head like this one will be sufficient. However, these usually have a 3/8" thread, and may require an adapter to work.

This camera slider has a lot of potential and if used carefully can achieve professional results. However, I do recommend using some sort of video editing software such as Premiere Pro or Final Cut Pro to stabilize your videos. In a future rendition I hope to add a stepper motor and a Arduino to add timelapse functionality. Below I have included the fusion 360 project file, and I encourage you to take my design and edit it to your own desires. If you enjoyed this Instructable, consider voting for this project on the Photography contest.