Digifab: Josh's 3D Printed Speaker

Preparation: tap the labeled holes with the specified metric tap sizes. 3D print the 3 supplied files.

1x Tectonic TEBM35C10 speaker driver

1x Dayton Audio DSA90 passive radiator

1x 3D printed crown

1x 3D printed body

1x 3D printed base Bulgin C16 snap in plug, 1.5mm

1x Adafruit MAX9744 stereo 20W amp

1x Mean Well 21.6W 12V encapsulated SMPS

7x M2.5 x 6mm button head screw, pozi

8x M4 x 8mm button head screw, pozi

2x 5mm diameter x 10mm heatshrink, red

2x 5mm diametex 10mm heatshrink, black

1x 8mm diameter x 20mm heatshrink, red

1x 8mm radius x 20mm heatshrink, black

3x 100mm power wire, red

3x 100mm power wire, black

Ensure your tap is fastened securely in your tap holder. Carefully rotate the tap clockwise, ensuring is it perfectly perpendicular to the tapped hole. Apply only light pressure to ensure the hole does not get prematurely stripped.

Use a pair of flush cutters to carefully cut into the wire shielding approximately 7mm from the end. Use them to slowly pry the shielding off the wire. Repeat this to all the wires, both black and red.

Ensuring your soldering iron is clean, apply some solder to the tip of the iron, then apply the solder from the hot iron to the stripped ends of the power wire. Ensure the wire ends are coated with a thin layer of solder.

Referencing the supplied diagram, solder a coloured wire to each of the pins on the power supply.

Slide the matching colour 5mm diameter heatshrink over the solder joints, then use a lighter or other heat source to shrink the heatshrink tight around the joint.

Placing the amp over the suitable holes, with the 3.5mm jack facing outside, use the M2.5 screws to screw the amp in place. Then, place the power supply in the snap in holder, ensuring the black wires are on the bottom. Connect the two closely spaced wires to the amp's 12V input, the red going in positive and the black in negative. Tighten the screws to hold the wires in place.

Attach the base to the underside of the main body, ensuring the 3.5mm jack lines up with the designated hole in the print. Use M4 screws to hold the two parts together. Pull the free wires through the hole above the 3.5mm jack.

Ensuring the matching 8mm diameter heatshrink is pushed on the wire prior, solder the red and black wires to the Bulgin C16 connector with polarity as indicated in the image. Use heat to shrink the heatshrink around the solder joint. Then, snap the connector into the designated hole.

Solder a red and black wire to the driver as indicated in the image, ensuring the black wire is connected to the narrower tab. Then, pushing the wires through the front hole, connect it to a channel of your choice (red to positive, black to negative). Finally, use M2.5 screws to attach the driver to the front face of the main body.

Get the passive radiator, place the crown on top (making sure to line up the holes), then push the remaining M4 screws through the holes. Fasten the passive radiator and crown combination to the top of the body with the 4 screws placed earlier.