Desalination With Piezo and Peltier

by Markus Opitz in Outside > Water

10619 Views, 104 Favorites, 0 Comments

Desalination With Piezo and Peltier

DesalinationTitel1.jpg
works1.jpg
Animation.gif

70% of our planet's surface is covered by water - salt water. Not usable for humans and most plants. Of course, there are non-technical methods of desalination, for example through evaporation. This can be done in an emergency, but the process takes a long time and does not produce much drinking water. You could heat the water, but that costs a lot of valuable energy.

With a little technology, we try to speed up the process and make it more effective. Whether the desalination has worked can be determined with another project: Salinity Measuring Device

Supplies

Supplies-1l1.jpg

Solar panel 12V or 24V

Ultrasonic USB Humidifier with Circuit Board

Peltier element 12V

Converter 12V to 5V

Pipes from the DIY store (see illustration)

2x aluminum cooling elements / heat sink

Theory

Theoretically, the H2O in our system should also evaporate from the seawater and leave behind salt. The water vapor condenses into drinkable and largely clean water. Getting water into the air consumes quite a lot of heat energy. There is a trick: we use a piezo humidifier to fire fine droplets into the air.

The Tube Containers

capture_007_05082024_173830.jpg

We build our device with pipes from the DIY store. It consists of an evaporation area and a condensation area. Because of the Peltier element, which produces heat on one side and cold on the other, the two chambers have to be close to each other. The two are connected at the top by a cooling area made of pipes.

The Humidifier

capture_019_05082024_174122.jpg
PCB-2.JPG
capture_020_05082024_174135.jpg
capture_021_05082024_174212.jpg
capture_022_05082024_174218.jpg
capture_025_05082024_174230.jpg

The humidifier is a ready-to-use device, it receives its power from [....]. The two large contacts on the bottom of the circuit board must be connected with solder so that it starts automatically and no button has to be pressed.

Solder the power supply cable. GND [....], the 5V connection is soldered [....].

The piezo disk is placed in the supplied holder and the foam piece is inserted. The humidifier can now be placed into a hole in the evaporation area as shown in the pictures and the connection plugged into the circuit board.

Peltier Heating/cooling Element W/ Solar Power

capture_002_05082024_173638.jpg
capture_003_05082024_173645.jpg
capture_004_05082024_173725.jpg
capture_005_05082024_173747.jpg
capture_006_05082024_173757.jpg
capture_008_05082024_173840.jpg
capture_010_05082024_173913.jpg
capture_011_05082024_173919.jpg
capture_013_05082024_173958.jpg
capture_015_05082024_174023.jpg

From the outside, a Peltier element is a ceramic plate that generates heat on one side and cold on the other when a voltage is applied. We can use both for our distillation process. The only disadvantage is that both are close together.

With the help of an aluminum body, we use the heat to convert the droplet mist into the gaseous state of water.


Cool Down and Condense

capture_016_05082024_174050.jpg
capture_018_05082024_174112.jpg

In the cooling area of our little system, the saturated air flow touches the cooled aluminum body, the water condenses and can be collected in a container.

As our system is powered by solar energy, there are no running costs. In sunny areas, the system can operate all day long. It doesn't even have to be particularly warm - sunlight is enough.

To support the evaporation of the water, the pipes in this area can be painted black and those in the condensation area white.

Test of the System and Salinity

capture_027_05082024_174302.jpg

I do a test with a 3.5% salt solution (35g salt/liter) that is similar to seawater.

I had the problem that I couldn't measure the salt content of the end product. So I built a small Salinity Measuring Device to be able to detect the removal of the salt.

Water input: 35 g/liter --> water output:~5 g/liter (0.5% salinity)


A first test showed a significant reduction in salt, from 35g salt/liter to ~5 g/liter. Certainly, the droplets are thrown towards the heater along with the salt, a few salt droplets find their way towards the condensation area. 

The result is brackish water and still not fresh water, but it's a great start!


Further Improvements

I have currently managed to reduce the salinity from 35 g/l to 4 g/l with a larger aluminium body on the heating side.


Further improvements will be made soon: 

a) a radiator that reaches more into the pipe

b) a permanently installed wire brush with which the salt crust can be removed with a few movements.