Using Paper for Patterns and Transfers on Clay

Paper is a very important tool for working with clay. It can function as a surface to let polymer clay leech on, a surface to bake polymer clay on, a backdrop to take photos with, and so much more.

But I think two of the most useful functions paper has with clay mainly get ignored! These are its ability to substitute for cutters and to make transfers for putting designs on clay. Today I will show you how.

This Instructable has sections. Skip to whatever one you want.

Section One: Paper as a Template Instead of Cutters

Section Two: Paper for Transferring 2D Designs

1. Paper: just regular, white, copy paper

2. Pencil or pen

3. Scissors

4. Tape (optional)

5. Clay (polymer clay or air dry)

6. Clay tools: roller, knife, stylus or other pointed tool (like a dull pencil)

7. A work surface

8. Cornstarch (optional, but you may find you need it)

9. 2D designs for transferring to clay..

Sometimes when you are working with clay you might find you don't have a specific cutter you need (and don't want to buy it!) This is especially true when making flower petals.

Or maybe you are making totally unique pieces that you want to make a lot of the shape organic shape. This could help you out by making sure your pieces are basically uniform because you have a template.

Whatever your reason, paper can make a good substitute. It does take a little more effort, but it can be reused and is cheap. Also, you can make your template whatever shape you want.

**Although my example is a flower petal, remember that this can work for ANYTHING. Any shape that you want but can't find or don't have the cutters for (as long as it is a flat shape), this can help you. I have made many templates for shapes that I was making a lot of but didn't have cutters for.**

First you need to draw out the shape you need on the paper.

My example is a flower petal. I want a petal cutter for a daffodil. First, I google photos of daffodils or look in flower catalogs at photos of daffodils so I can see what shape the petals are.

With a pencil, I draw out the shape (or roughly the shape) of a daffodil petal. If you are nervous about your drawing abilities, you can trace the shape you need from a photo. If that isn't possible, perhaps you know someone who could draw the shape for you.

After I'm happy with the shape I have draw, I cut it out with the scissors.

Here is where the optional tape comes in. If you want to use this cutter over and over the way I do with mine, I "laminate" the paper with tape. It doesn't stick to the clay and it keeps the paper from tearing or wearing out. I generally do this before I cut the paper by taping on both sides of the design. Then I cut it out.

Now that I have my template, it is time to use it.

I roll my clay out to the desired thickness. I place the template on top of the clay, making sure not to press it into the clay.

Using the knife tool, I trace around the outside of my template. You have to make sure that your template doesn't move, but that isn't very difficult.

Once you have completely traced around the shape, remove the template from the clay. You should have the shape you need.

Remove the excess clay from around your cutout and keep claying!

Try to make sure that there are hardly any seams if you "laminate" with tape. Sometimes these can come through onto the clay.

Don't press templates into the clay. The afore mentioned might happen, or they might get stuck to the clay (I have only had that happen with paper that I didn't coat with tape).

Try to make sure it moves as little as possible while you are cutting around it. Moving it will obviously make your shape not come out right.

Try to make all of your cuts with the knife very precise. What I mean is, don't wiggle the knife around or drag the knife a whole lot. Make as solid of cuts as you can. This will help prevent your final shape from being warped.

Use the tip of your knife or another tool to remove the template. That way you don't damage your clay shape with your fingers as you try to get a hold of the edge of the paper.

If your shape does come out slightly warped, don't freak out. You can fix it, or if all else fails, you can just cut a new one.

Store your templates laying flat. I keep mine in a little plastic container because most of mine are very small shapes.

This can be very useful if you like to draw and would like some of your drawings to be on your jewelry. Or perhaps your clay stuff has a mascot (like Parker from Kater's Acres) and you want that image on some pendants. Maybe you like to draw but are nervous about clay.

Whatever the reason, using paper to transfer images to clay is a cheap way to get your designs on clay. All you need is a roller, a stylus or other pointed tool, a pencil or pen, and a piece of paper.

Draw or copy your design onto the paper. This can be a drawing of something or a pattern. The details shouldn't be too tiny because that will be more difficult to make.

Make the design the size you want it to be on the clay. This may involve resizing. If it does, you can take a photo of your drawing or scan it into the computer using a scanner/printer. Either way, once you get your photo onto the computer, you can put it in a word document or the like and size it to the size you want it to be.

Print out your design or draw your design.

Roll out your clay as thick or thin as you want it.

Cut the design out of the paper so it can be small enough to be easily used. You don't want to try to use a whole sheet of paper because then you won't be able to see your clay.

Line up the paper on top of the clay and position the design where you want it.

Using the stylus, trace over the design, making sure to indent on the clay. You don't have to push a whole lot (you'll break the paper), but make sure that it is actually coming out on the clay.

*TIP: You may want to dust a light layer of cornstarch over the clay surface to make sure the paper doesn't stick. I have had that happen to me in the past.

Trace the whole design, then carefully remove the paper. You should have your design on the clay. Refine pieces of the design as needed.

As I said, you might want to lightly dust cornstarch on the surface of the clay to make sure the paper doesn't stick. Not pushing too hard on the stylus will also help ensure that the paper doesn't get stuck.

Try not to scratch or tear the paper.

Paper transfers last much less time than paper templates. I advise making several copies of your design and keeping one "on file" for later use.

You can cover the transfer with tape to help it last longer. Be forewarned that this may cause your traced lines to not come out as distinct.

To help your design show up on clay, use a wash of dark paint after baking/drying. This will bring out the lines. I have another Instructable on that as well if you need help. Just click on my user name "Little Lightning Bug" and scroll through my Instructables to access it (as of this writing I don't have the url).

Here I have an example wolf that I did a while back. After my clay had dried, I did a wash with burnt umber paint to bring out the details (you don't have to use black or brown. Any color that will make the design stand out will work.).

I hope this Instructable helped you realize how important paper could be to your clay work. Whether you liked one technique or both, go use them to make your clay even better!

The little wolf totem on my wolf necklace was made using both techniques. I drew and cut out a template that I also drew the design on, then I traced around the template and pressed the design into the clay using the stylus. These techniques are easy and cheap ways to expand your clay work.

Go clay today!