DIY Pelican 1050 Bluetooth Speaker Dayton Audio

From the first Project I started, I had always wanted to do Bluetooth Speakers. I wasn't skilled at any electrical, so I started my research and watching hours and hours of videos. 100's of projects later, I finally felt comfortable enough to start building them. I had already purchased most of the main components, and they just sat in a box for the past 3 years until now. I have built around 6 total, with this one being my first published video on BT Speakers. The other videos will be coming as I edit. Projects are done, just need to find the time to edit and do an instructable. Please like, subscribe and share and most of all enjoy!! In this project, you will also see me built a 18650 3s pack with BMS, Post on Youtube and Build a Great looking Bluetooth Speaker

I like to stage all parts and peice I am going to use, just so I get a rough idea of the build. This lets me know who I might throw it together. Here is a list of the main components I used.

Dayton Audio DTA-2 Class D Digital Audio Amplifier Module

Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 4 Ohm

TinyShine 4.0 Bluetooth Audio Receiver Board(TWS/Apt-X)

Passive Speaker 3.5

Pelican 1050 Clear Micro Case

1/8" 3.5mm Chassis Panel Mount TRS Headphone Jack with Solder Terminals for Auxiliary Input/Output Port

Round Rocker Toggle Switch With Red Led 12v Illuminated Car Dash On / Off

Panel Mount Metal DC Power Jack 2.1 x 5.5 mm

6-24V to 5V 3A USB DC-DC Buck Step-Down Converter

3S 25A Li-ion 18650 BMS PCM battery protection board bms pcm with balance for li-ion lipo battery cell pack

3 x NCR18650

Mis. parts and pieces.

Most of these items were purchased a couple of years ago, so the links I would have used are probably dead. Parts Express has most of the items above and I got the case from B&H. If you have any issue locating a part, just drop me a line and I will do my best to find it.

To prevent marking up the case and having to erase any markings. I use masking tape before I start the process. Just encase I mess up. If I mess up, I simply pull off the masking tape and start all over with no harm to the case. Using the Calipers, I measure the speaker's diameter and divide that by 2 to get my center. I place the speakers on the case to figure out where I want them placed. because I'll have the amp on the same side, I decided to place the speakers kinda low and the passive dead center of the back of the case. I also like to write the measurement of the cutout next to the dot I mark for the cutout. These cases are around 20$, and 2 years ago there were around 10. So make sure you have them marked exactly where you want them before doing any drilling. No room for mistakes, with smaller cases. BTW, I was at Winco Foods the other day, and I saw a case they had there for sale. They had a wide variety of sizes, with the smallest resembling the Pelican 1050. The cost was around 6$. I am sure any of the cases they had would work just as good.

Before I drilled any holes in the case, I figured I'd better write up a Circuit/Pictorial to follow. This helps from making any mistakes when you get to the assembly phase of your build. This also helps if you decide to share your build with anyone else. May save them a step or 2. Also, this lets you know if you need to add or take away components. I always like to draw out the parts in a rough way.

I started out by connecting the amp to the Bluetooth Module. Then I connect the aux of the BT Module to the outside of the case (This is optional and I found out later on, this Module doesn't allow Aux-in and BT mode at the same time, so I disconnected before I tested). Next, I connected the Postive and Negative of the amp and Buck Converter to the Battery. Then I connected the charging port to the negative and Postive running into the battery. Same with the Voltmeter (I did not use one in my build).I connect the speakers to the amp. Last I figured out where the On-Off switch would be.

I personally like to predrill my Pilot holes for the hole saw before using the actual hole saw. This seems to help me keep it straight and exactly where I placed the marking. Make sure to use a bit a couple size smaller than the bit you use on your hole saw. Make sure to use a file, or a piece of sandpaper to clean up any burrs.

.Because I am mounting these speakers on the outside, I needed to mark and sand the raised strips on the case. I used a Xacto to mark the lines around the speaker. Then I took a Dremel and sanded the raised lines off flush with the case. Placing the speakers in the case, I marked with a thumb tac where I needed to drill the holes. I will be using a nut and bolt type screw. I made sure to use the correct bit and drilled were I marked for the nuts.

I taped where I might be adding the smaller Components. With the Calipers, I measured and then wrote down the size of the hole on the Tape. Then using a ruler, I centered each with a line and dot for the Pilot hole. I then predrilled each spot with a 1/8in drill bit and finished off with a step bit. I use a piece of tape to make the depth on the step bit.

Some might think this is a waste of wire, but I like to pre solder my smaller parts with the positive and negative wires and then add heat-shrink. Later after I add them to the case, I can trim to fit. Make sure to add heat-shrink anywhere it is needed.

Make it a point to read the instructions and then solder the supplied wires to the board. It only requires the left and right speaker, positive and negative and the power, positive and negative. With this board, you have the option of using the DC jack for power or solder the wires to the board. I chose to solder the wires to the board. This will save room later when you add all the components. Make sure to use a Multimeter to check your connection often. I also opted not to use the LED see last pic.

I try and make it a point to test any battery going into anything I build, regardless if it is new or used. I decided to go with the NCR18650 for this build. I also took around 12 or so batteries to test and picked the best 3. Here I am just getting the testing started while I move onto the next step.

Using a Towel to protect from scratches, I started adding the Speakers and the Passive Speaker. The Nut and bolt system I am using has a Philips head on one side and a self-locking nut on the other. I needed to do this before I made the battery pack, only so I can figure out which configuration would work best. I didn't worry about sealing these speakers. They actually had a gasket that seals perfectly when installed like this.

Here I found the best 3 NCR18650 I had and decide to use in a 3S configuration. Typically with my packs, I like to re-sleeve them. After I re-sleeved them, I had to find the best configuration to fit the case. It seemed and little offset and it would fit perfectly with the BMS. I used Hot glue to hold them together. Once I figured out the configuration, I used my DIY Battery Tab welder to weld the battery with pure Nickel strip. I then prepped the BMS and the wires including the balance cables. Finally using captan tape, on the back, and attached and tested the battery. Make sure when you pick your batteries, you use the batteries with the closest Capacity and Resistance.

Down to the Home Strech! Just install all components starting with the outside switches and plugs. Use Hot glue if you think air may leak. Then using Hotglue, position the inside components for the best fit. Once everything is positioned, Connect all wiring, according to the schematic/pictorial. Last connect the Power to the amp, and the speakers according to the amp instructions. The amp comes with added capacitors and inductors that go to each speaker. Make sure to connect the ribbon and Volume cable. Lastly, connect the power to the battery. It should be pretty simple if you follow your pictorial and instruction given with the amp.

Pretty simple instructions in the title. I used small zip ties to clean up the wiring and trimmed the excess. Also the case came with an insert. You will need to trim the insert, so you can use the outside piece on the case for better closing and opening. See First Pic. Last I will add the knob to the volume control. I didn't use the included knob.

Once I connected this to Bluetooth, I was blown away at the bass those little speakers carry. This little speaker sounds amazing. The only issue I ran across. One of the zip ties I put in the wiring was rattling on the passive speaker. Also, I made sure the Test Video was the very first turn on and test. My iPhone picks up the feedback way worse than it actually sounds. But this was also fixed by a dab of hot glue...But A simple dab of hot glue and the rattle went away. This is the end of my Instructable, please feel free to ask me anything about the build. Here is the test video I did. Unfortatntly I don't own the proper recording equipment, I had to use my iPhone. The video does not do the speaker justice. Please enjoy and Look for my next Bluetooth speaker or DIY Project on my channel. I'll probably post this test video on my channel in the next day or so. Thanks for reading my Instructable!!!