DIY Escape Proof Dog Harness-Leash

Our two dogs love to go for walks, but one of them is a bit challenging. She is very nervous and hyperaware of noises, which in turn, causes her to sometimes get spooked during the walk. At this moment, she turns into an escape artist and slips out of her collar or harness and thankfully, so far, runs home. This takes an already stressful situation and makes it worse for her and us.

We have spent hundreds of dollars on various harnesses and collars, but time after time, she finds a way to wiggle out of each one...until now! While searching, yet one more time, for an escape proof harness, I ran across pictures of a similar design to this and thought "I can make that!"

After a bit of trial and error, this is the design that seemed to work the best.

So, for all of you out there who have Houdini dogs that seem to escape any harness, here is my version of a DIY Escape Proof Dog Harness-Leash.

Leather - anywhere from 2 to 6 oz, depending on your dog's size. (Scrap leather from the local hobby store or veg tan leather works great.)

Nylon Rope - Appropriate for your dog's size (Example project is 1/2" rope from the hardware store)

Barge's Contact Cement or Leather Glue (or any brand you prefer)

A Leather Knife ( or sharp hobby knife like an Exacto)

Leather Thread Punch or Chisels and Awl (Just using an awl is fine, but the punch or chisels make sewing easier)

Mallet or Hammer

(2) Leather Sewing Needles

Waxed Thread for Leather Work

Thread Nippers or Scissors

Lighter or Butane Torch (for melting/finishing thread ends)

Leather Edge Beveller

Tokenole or Gum Tragacanth (for burnishing/finishing edges of the leather if desired)

Leather Burnishing Tool

Leather Edge Paint

Edge Painting Tool (Make-up sponge or Q-tip will work as well)

Cutting Mat

Hole punch the same size as your rope for clean holes - Optional (can also use a hobby knife)

To make your version of the DIY Escape Proof Dog Harness-Leash, the first thing to do is plan out what sizes are needed to make the leather pieces to fit your dog and the appropriate size rope. The rope diameter is necessary for use as a guideline for sizing all leather parts.

Example project is for a 50+ pound hound dog, so a 1/2 inch diameter nylon rope will be used. For a small dog like a Yorkie, you may only want to use 1/4 inch rope. Most dogs, even large breeds, won't need any thicker rope than 1/2 inch. Just choose something appropriate for your dog's size.

Next up: Leather Parts - There are 4 parts needed to make the leather parts of the harness. Starting from the top left and moving clockwise:

The Top piece that will sit between your dog's shoulder blades.

The Chest piece that will hold the rope together under the chest and creates the loop for the head and the front legs.

Lastly, the two pieces that will be used as covers for the ends of the rope.

Top Piece Pattern: Use the diameter of the rope as a guide. Example project rope diameter is 1/2 inch, therefore the holes will also be 1/2 inch in diameter so the rope would be able to slide easily for adjustment, but still maintain a bit of friction to keep it from coming loose when there is slack in the leash.

The distance between the first two holes is the same as the diameter of the rope (example project is 1/2 inch). Place the center of the holes 2 times the diameter of the rope apart from left to right, and then double that spacing between the holes from front to back. (pic 1) If you are using smaller rope, than adjust the measurements accordingly.

Rounding off the edges gives a nice appearance and adds comfort to your dog. For this project, a half inch radius was used. This was a personal preference, but a smaller radius or even squared corners would work as well.

Cut two of these pieces to glue together for a double the thickness, additional support, and to have finished leather on both sides. One piece is also an option, if you don't mind the unfinished suede on the bottom and you don't need the additional support.

Cut the border of the pattern for both the top and bottom pieces. Use the top piece as a guide for the bottom one so they will match.

Glue the top piece to the bottom and let sit for the glue to dry.

Cut the holes with your knife once the glue is dry. (A 1/2" round punch would have made this step easier and cleaner, but the knife totally works too.)

Determine how long to make the piece that holds the rope together at the chest. Simply wrap the leather around two parts of the rope and then leave enough room for stitching. Mark the leather where it overlaps leaving about a 1/4 inch for the stitches.

Once the length is determined, cut a rectangle. (Example project width is approximately 1-1/2 inches.)

Glue the ends together so that it makes a loop.

Clamp together to allow the glue to set.

Wrap the end of the rope with tape to keep it from fraying/unraveling when it is cut.

Cut the end of the rope at a 45° angle to prepare measuring the leather cover pieces. The 45° angle will allow the rope to make a smooth transition where the end meets the other section of the rope.

Use a torch or lighter to melt the end of the rope to prevent fraying/unraveling.

Remove the tape from the end of the rope. If you need to touch up the end of the rope with the torch, now is a great time to do it.

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 to create the two cover pieces.

Wrap tape around the end of the rope to make it easier to hold and so the point at the end will sit flush against the other part of the rope.

Use where the rope narrows as a guide and leave enough room for stitches.

Mark leather and cut it to make a loop that will be 2 times the rope diameter at one end, and only big enough to loop one section of rope at the other end.

Glue the edges together as in Step 5 and clamp to allow the glue to dry.

Once the glue is set, finish the edges of the leather. This step is optional, but it dresses up the piece to give it a more finished appearance. If a raw edge is your preference, skip to Step 10 Stitching the Leather Pieces.

Run the edge beveller down each edge of the leather. This will round off the edge corner to help in the slicking of the edge in the next step. (If the holes were punched beveling the edges around the holes is not necessary.)

Apply the Tokenole (or Gum Tragacanth) to the edges and slick them by rubbing the edge slicker (burnishing tool) back and forth on the edge. Do this until a smooth and shiny edge appears that is ready for paint application.

Repeat for the Chest and Cover pieces.

Apply edge paint (color of choice) with your favorite edge paint tool. Tandy leather has a great application tool (shown in photo) which a mesh "cage" that you dip into the paint. With the loaded tool, roll it along the edge and it will create a clean line and a consistent coat of paint.

Alternatively, using a make-up sponge, Q-tip, or paint brush is perfectly acceptable.

Stitching Leather Together:

Use a stitch punch or chisel to punch holes for the stitching. (Alternatively, use a stitch spacer and stitching awl to make the holes.)

Stitch pieces together using your preferred stitching method. (Example piece is a two needle saddle stitch, used for its strength.)

If needed, take a look at this stitching tutorial for various types of stitches: https://www.instructables.com/Sewing-Leather-1/

Burn the ends of the thread with a lighter to keep from fraying and coming unsewn.

All four leather pieces should be complete.

Next up: Assembly of the DIY Escape Proof Dog Harness-Leash!

The Assembly:

See pic. 1 for numbering diagram.

Insert the end of the rope through hole number 1 (pic. 2), from the top/finished side.

Feed the end through the chest piece (pic 3).

Bring the end back up and feed it through Hole 2 from the bottom (pic. 4), then back down through Hole 3 (pic. 5).

Feed it back through the chest piece again (pic 6). TIP: To make this step easier to pull the rope back through the chest piece, tape the threading end to the rope length already through, and use it to help pull the the end through (pic 6), then remove the tape.

Finish routing the end of the rope through the last hole from the bottom (pic 7).

Test Fit: To ensure there is enough rope so that the harness can be adjusted properly and there is enough slack left to be able to get the harness on and off easily.

Slip each side loop around the dog's legs, ensuring the chest piece is centered between the legs.

Loosen the top enough to fit over the dog's head. At this point, ensure there is enough of the loose end of the rope through the top, so that when you loosen the harness it won't pull back through the hole. (Example project is approximately 18 inches extra.)

Adjustment length has now been determined.

Determine leash length:

Making sure the harness is still in it's tightened position, measure out the desired length of the lead.

(Example project is 10 ft from the top of the leather adjustment piece to the end of the rope that will loop around for the handle.) This leash length is completely a personal preference, so determine the desired length that's right for you and your pooch.

Tape the area where you are going to cut the end to prevent fraying/unravelling of the rope.

Cut the rope at 45° angle at your desired length. Torch the end to melt it together like we did on the other end in Step 6 Cut the End of the Rope.

Bind the adjustment end together. Sew the end with a couple of stitches, then wrap around several times for strength (pic 1).

Run thread back under the wrap and cut end of thread.

Feed the long end of the rope through the end cover from the larger side (pic 2).

Slide the leather cover down to where the adjustment end will be.

Apply some glue over the threads and to the part where the two pieces come together (pic 3).

Slip the leather cover over the wrapped portion (pic 4). This should keep your leather cover piece held in firmly and protect the end of the rope from coming loose.

Making the loop for the handle is similar to the way you joined the rope at the adjustment end.

Slip the second leather cover piece on from the slender side first, so the joined pieces will sit in the larger pocket created on the loop side.

Make a loop large enough for a hand to fit through.

Bind the end together the same way that the other end was joined in Step 13 Closing Up the Ends.

Run thread back under the wrap and cut end of thread.

Glue the threads and slip the cover over the joined area.

Once your glue has set, you and your pup are ready to go!

The first fit will take the longest to get situated.

Put the harness on the same way as for the test fit before.

Slip the legs through the side loops.

Ensure chest piece in centered between the upper part of the legs, just below the neck.

Slip head through the top loop.

Tighten adjustment by pulling on the leash once head and legs are in.

TIP: It may be required to adjust each leg loop and around the neck to make sure everything is evenly distributed and and your pup is comfortable.

When the harness is fully adjusted, the top leather piece should sit directly between the shoulders and the chest piece should be just in front of the legs below the neck, centered nicely between the legs.

Now, if your dog decides to try and be an escape artist, as they pull away, the leash will tighten around the upper part of the legs and shoulders, preventing escape!

To remove the harness simply let out the slack on the leash and loosen the loops at the legs and head. Pull loop over head and allow pup to step out of the harness.

Now, go and enjoy a nice walk with your pup!