DIY Epoxy Mold for Large Table

In this instructable, I show you how to make a high quality epoxy resin table mold for your next large epoxy table.

From choosing the right materials to designing and assembling your own mold, this tutorial covers every step of the process in detail. 

Epoxy resin kit

Wood (or other inclusions)

Large mold box

Mold release agent (e.g., silicone spray or paste wax)

Tuck Tape or Sheathing Tape

Gloves

Mask

Level and shims

Epoxy Resin Table DIY Plans

Now that you have chosen the right materials for your mold, it’s time to dive into the epoxy mold-making process.

As a first step, plan and measure the shape and size of the table. Obviously, this is a very important step before creating your DIY mold,

The desired shape of the epoxy resin table depends on various factors, such as the available space in your home, the size of the wooden slab, and other personal preferences. 

 As a quick tip, sketch out your design on paper or in a 3D modeling program.

Remember, take accurate measurements and plan out your design carefully as this will form the basis of your entire project.

Once you have your measurements in hand, it’s time to determine the size of the epoxy table mold.

Don’t worry, a formula helps you determine the mold size.

The best space to leave between the table and the mold is 1″.

Using the aforementioned measurements, the formula to determine the size of an epoxy resin table mold is: 

• Length of Table + 1″ + .75″ + .75″ = Mold Length
• Width of Table + 1″ + .75″ + .75″ = Mold Width
• Thickness of Table + 1″ = Mold Height
• For example, your table measurement are 72″ (Length) x 36″ (Width) x 2″ (Thickness)
• Length of Mold = 74.5″
• 72 + 1 + .75 + .75
• Width of Mold = 38.5″
• 36 + 1 + .75 + .75
• Height of Mold = 3″
• Final Measurements: 74.5″ x 38.5″ x 3″

As a final step, use the final epoxy resin table mold measurements to determine the size of the base, sides, and ends. This will be your cut list.

• Base = Final Length x Final Width
• 74.5″ x 38.5″
• Quantity 1
• Sides = Final Length x Final Height
• 74.5″ x 3″
• Quantity 2
• Ends = (Final width – .75″ – .75″) x Final Height .
• 37″ x 3″
• Quantity 2

5 pieces of wood form the base and 4 walls of your epoxy mold.

As previously mentioned, any type of wood works.

For best results, choose a 3/4″ melamine 4’x8′ sheet. Melamine has a non-stick surface, sufficient wall thickness, readily available, and relatively affordable.. 

First, use a circular saw or track saw to cut the wood for the base piece to the final width and length measurements listed above.

If you don’t own a track saw or circular saw, ask your local home center to cut the base for you.

Their panel saw cuts straight lines, but be sure to monitor the epoxy resin table mold measurements before they cut. 

Then, sand the entire surface of each piece to remove any rough spots or imperfections.

Next, cut the sides and ends.

To ensure that your epoxy table turns out perfectly level, it's crucial to choose a flat surface on which to construct your mold. 

A great place to build your epoxy resin table mold is a sturdy workbench, a large sheet of plywood, or even a section of your garage floor. 

The easiest way to build the epoxy resin form is to attach the sides to the base.

In fact, the formulas in the previous step take this into account.

First, drill 4 pilot holes on each side and on each end. Make sure the holes are spaced apart appropriately. 

Next, run a bead of caulk along the epoxy mold sides. Also, fast dry caulk is a great option to use.  It seals well, but isn't hard to remove.

Silicone or construction adhesive may be a lot of work to remove. The damage you cause to the mold during the removal process may prevent it from being used on a future project.

Next, place the sides on the base and use clamps to hold in place. Drive screws through the pilot holes from the underside of the epoxy resin table form. Ultimately, pilot holes prevent the screws from protruding causing the epoxy mold to be uneven.

Then, drive 2 screws through the sides into the ends.

Keep in mind, pilot holes aren't needed since the screws are not on the bottom.

Seal your mold frame using fast dry caulk on every inside and outside seam. 

Next, smooth the caulk with your finger.

As a quick tip, wet your finger when smoothing caulk to prevent it from sticking. This will prevent any leaks during the pouring process.

Allow the epoxy mold to rest for 24 to 48 hours before attempting a pour of epoxy.

If you used MDF or plywood for your epoxy resin table mold, use tuck tape and sheathing tape to seal the joints and edges of your epoxy mold.

This ensures the resin doesn't leak during the casting process.

Both types of tape are waterproof and highly adhesive, making them ideal for use with epoxy resin.

Reusing your epoxy resin mold is a great way to save money on future projects.

​So, a mold release agent is one of the most vital parts of the epoxy mold making process. Otherwise, the epoxy sticks to the surface and ruins the mold during the demolding process.

Simply wipe it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe off the excess.

For those on a budget, vaseline or furniture wax works well.

Use a level and shims to ensure the mold is perfectly level, as this will affect the final appearance of your table.

Place your prepared wood and any additional elements of different shapes in the mold.

Next, secure them with CA glue or hot glue if necessary.

With your mold prepared, it's time to mix and pour the epoxy resin.

Use this resin calculator to determine the amount of epoxy you need. 

Slowly pour your mixed epoxy resin into the mold frame, filling the void between the wooden slab and the walls of the mold.

As the epoxy resin cures, it will undergo a chemical reaction that generates heat. 

Consequently, epoxy leaks may occur due to heat from the chemical reaction or from an improperly sealed epoxy resin mold. 

By monitoring for leaks, you can potentially save your project without losing too much resin.

Keep in mind, you can easily fix epoxy leaks with a hot glue gun, tuck tape, or fast curing caulk.

Lastly, press the surface gently with your fingernail to ensure the epoxy has reached its full hardness before attempting to remove the table from the mold, 

Disassemble the mold box by hitting the top of the sides away from the table using a deadblow mallet every 12 inches.

If it doesn't break free, repeat the process. Remove one end by using the same process.

Next, use a number of shims to raise the table about 1/8" at each end.

I hope this instructable provided you with value. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions - I'm happy to help.

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and my website for more DIY tutorials.