Custom Wiring a Table Lamp for Lightsabers

Wiring a lamp is one of the easiest projects known to mankind. If you are rewiring an old lamp, the process is simply replacing what was there. This instructable will demonstrate how to customize a few features that will make any lamp more interesting. This will be a first time wiring for a Lightsaber Power Generator Lamp.
Contrary to popular belief, Lightsabers do have a finite amount of energy and periodically need to be recharged. On a full charge, a Lightsaber can produce energy for many years.
I recently built this power generator lamp and the final step is to complete the wiring. The wiring process is basically the same for almost any lamp. However, I will be slightly modifying the process for a more custom look. This instructable will focus on a new switch knob and a brass powercord fitting.

A cloth powercord will definitely give a more sophisticated look. This powercord has a factory installed plug. The outside diameter of the cord is about a 1/4 inch. A common rubber grommet is usually all that is needed for a powercord to connect to a lamp. However, for a more custom look, a brass fitting will be machined in the next step. I will modify 2 existing brass fittings to complete 1 piece.

These are standard 1/4 inch tubing connecters that will work fine. Machine away 1/2 of the hexagon part for a sleeker look. While still mounted in the lathe chuck, tightly insert the threaded connecter. Cut off the excess but leave the threads. Machine or file the leading edge for smooth threading. Drill a 1/4 inch diameter through hole and bevel each end to avoid wear on the powercord. Sand and polish the hexagon section to remove any imperfections.
Drill an 11-32 inch diameter hole and tap 3/8-24 threads and screw in the brass coupling tightly.

You could use a standard push on knob but since the switch is a focal point, a machined wood and brass knob will look more custom. I have some nice rosewood that machines well.
Machine an end piece from 5/8 inch diameter brass. Then drill and tap for 8-32 threads about a 1/4 inch deep. Insert and tighten a 1/2 inch long 8-32 set screw. Final length of the brass is about 3/8 inch.
Machine a 5/8 inch diameter rosewood dowel at least 3/4 inch long. Optional grooves can be added at this time. Drill and tap for 8-32 threads. Now apply a small amount of super glue to the threads and tighten the brass firmly to the rosewood. Now machine the brass end into a pleasing dome shape. Sand and polish the assembly to a nice finish.
Cut off the knob assembly and machine the other side flat. Drill a 5/16 inch diameter hole into the wood about 3/8 inches deep.
The rotary switch brass section is knurled to accept a knob. To make the newly machined knob fit properly, carefully file tiny grooves to correspond to the switch knurling with a miniature file. This is a fairly time consuming procedure but is worth the effort to insure a proper snug fit.

The switch sits rather tall so a brass shoulder piece is machined to cover the mounting nut. Then a round brass nut holds this cover piece in place. A 3/8 inch diameter hole is drilled into the cast iron base to accept the switch. Insert the switch and tighten securely with the supplied nut. Slide on the cover piece and tighten securely with a brass nut. Now push on the rosewood knob. If prepared properly, the knob should slide on with a snug fit. This knob was a fair amount of work but was worth the effort.

This lamp has a 24 inch tall tower section and additional wire is needed to reach the base. Attach 20 extra inches of wire to the main ceramic socket wires by soldering and then using shrink tubing. Snake the wires down to the bottom of the base. Bring the secondary ceramic socket wires up to the powercord wires. The secondary socket accepts miniature bulbs. A small red LED bulb makes for a nice status light.
All white wires are connected together with a wire nut. The black wire from the powercord is connected to one of the rotary switch wires. The other rotary switch wire is then connected to the remaining black wires with a wire nut. Tuck all wiring up into the base. This wiring project is now done. Plug the powercord into an outlet to test the rotary switch. Both lights should turn on and off together.

P.S. If you do not want to solder any connections, wire nuts can be used throughout. Also if you choose to, electrical tape can be used to further secure the wire nuts.

This was a fairly simple wiring project. However, by making a custom brass fitting and control knob, any rewired lamp can have a more sophisticated look.
The main bulb used is a remote controlled LED type which gives an additional on/off feature and multiple color options. For a pure ambience effect, the red LED option compliments the red status light. White light can be chosen when more illumination is needed. This was very difficult to photograph with colored lights but I hope you get the point. Now, which Lightsaber to charge first....

-MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU-