Custom Closet Organization

I recently renovated my master bedroom by combining two bedrooms in my house. This meant that I had to build new closets. To fill the empty closets I wanted something more than a simple closet rod, so I designed his and hers matching closet organizers. My wife and I had different ideas on how we wanted to store things, so they are a little different (as you can see in the pictures). This instructable will go over the basic structure which can be modified to fit any closet. My next instructable will show you taking a closet organizer to the next level by adding drawers, so make sure to follow me.

Don't forget to check out the video at the top to see the entire process in action and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask in the comments below.

Below are links to tools and materials I used in this article. It is either the exact tool/supply or something very close.
Supplies:

- 3/4" plywood (I used maple veneered plywood)

- 3/4" solid maple (for edge banding)

- Wood glue

- Wood screws

- Blue tape

- 3/8" Dowels

- Water based polyurethane

- Closet rod flanges

- Closet rod

Tools:

- Table saw

- Circular saw

- Router

- 3/4 router bit

- Clamps

- Random orbit sander

- Drill/drvier

- Drill press

- Plug cutter

- Flush cut saw

- Angle Grinder

Note: The amazon links in this article are affiliate links, meaning, at
no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

With the help of my dad, we ripped (cut along the length of the board) the plywood to width. Initially I ripped it to 20" but that ended up making the cabinet too deep (see step 5). So I suggest ripping the plywood to 18" (assuming your closet is 24" deep)

Ripping down full sheets of plywood is difficult, if you are by yourself and don't think it would be possible to do so safely on the table saw I suggest using a circular saw with a board clamped to it as a guide.

To cut the material to length I used a circular saw with a guide clamped to the wood. To ensure the best cut I also added masking tape along the edge of the cut. This helps to minimize tear out.

I have attached a drawing that shows all of the measurements I used in my build (along with measurements for the dados that will be routed in the next step)

All of the shelves (cross pieces) will be attached to the side pieces with dados. Dados are just a fancy name for slots cut into wood. I used a router with a guide clamped in place to make the lines. I did both side pieces at the same time to ensure that the dados would be at the same heights on both pieces. You can refer to the image in the previous step for the location where I put my dados. That being said, you can customize and place shelves where ever works best for you.

Tip1: Add a sacrificial piece at the end of the dado to prevent tear out.

Tip2: If you don't have a router bit that is the right size (in my case I was making 3/4" dados and only had a 1/2" router bit) you can add a small piece of wood as a spacer (1/4" in my example) which will offset the router off of the guide. This allows you to make one pass along the guide, then add the spacer and make a second pass. This way you don't have to move the guide between passes.

Assembly was pretty straight forward, but at the same time a bit hectic because I did not have enough long clamps. You also have to work fast before the glue sets up. I used titebond III because it has an extended open time.

I put glue on a joint, then clamped a horizontal piece to the side piece. (while trying to ensure it was square) There were clamps on the floor and on top. After I had all of the horizontal shelves in place, I unscrewed the clamps and added the second side piece (and this was where the real fun started!) It was a race against time to get all of the clamps in place and ensure that everything was square before the glue set up.

While it turned out ok, one of the shelves didn't fit in perfectly. I ended up putting that side at the back so I didn't have to look at it.

I suggest you skip this step, but I left it in just in case you make the same mistake I did. I originally designed the shelving to be 20" deep. My closet is 24" deep so I figured 4" would be enough space. Once it was in place it just felt too deep.

I took the assembled shelving downstairs and first cut it on the table saw to 18". As the table saw blade only cuts about 4" deep I then needed to cut the shelving using a circular saw. The circular saw was not able to get all the way to the end, so I used a jigsaw to finish the cut. It was a lot of work, but better than throwing the entire project in the trash.

For the second shelving unit I had yet to assemble it, so I was able to cut all the pieces to the correct width on the table saw.

The top shelf is just a single piece of plywood cut to fit the space (18"x92"). In order to support it I added cleats (which happened to be cut offs from the previous step). I used a stud finder to locate the studs (tip: mark the studs on masking tape so that it can be easily removed afterwards). I then transferred the location of the studs to the cleats. I drilled and added a countersink to match the locations of the studs.

I screwed the cleats to the wall and used a spirit level to ensure the top shelf would be level.

To attach the top shelf to the cleats and the shelving unit I wanted to use screws. I first drilled pilot holes, then used a countersinking bit to add a countersink. Lastly I screwed it in using 1 1/4" wood screws.

As screw holes are not very nice to look at I decided to add plugs. I used a plug cutter to cut some plugs in some scrap maple. I used my bandsaw to cut them out, but you can also just pry on them with a screwdriver.

I added glue and hammered them in place with a mallet.

After the glue was dry I cut them flush with a flush cut handsaw.

The edges of plywood (especially cheap plywood) don't look very nice. To cover them people use edge banding. They sell some that can be ironed on, but I have never had success using the iron on edge banding. I always have at least one spot where the glue doesn't quite work, or I get a chip out. Instead I just use some thin strips of solid wood.

The lumber I had was rough cut, which meant that in order to use it I had to square up the sides. I used a jointer jig (similar to this one https://www.instructables.com/Table-Saw-Jointer/) to create a flat surface on one side. I was then able to use that side as a reference against the table saw fence and I cut strips of wood 1/8" thick.

There seems to be two schools of thought when it comes to stuff like this, the first is measuring and cutting and the second is marking in place and cutting. I am of the later school.

Each piece was put in place and then marked with a pencil. I then ensured a square cut by using a tiny square to transfer the mark across the piece. I used a Japanese pull saw to cut the piece to length. Every piece was then taken back to the shelving unit confirm that it was the correct size.

Glue was then added and it was taped in place. I used 1 piece of tape every few inches.

After the glue is dry. don't forget to argue with yourself about whether or not it's a good idea to film the process of removing the tape.

Tip 1: Always do the longest pieces first. If you end up cutting them too short, you can always turn them into short pieces.

Tip 2: Before putting glue on the piece, add some pieces of masking tape to the shelving that way it is easily accessible when you are trying to hold the piece in place.

I like things to be subdivided as much as possible so I opted to add some interior shelving on my closet. This obviously complicated the build, so it is completely option. I used a combination of dowels, screws and a dado (which I routed in before I assembled the shelving unit).

I first cut two pieces of wood, one for the middle shelf and one to be an upright. The dimensions do not matter as long it isn't the same width as the middle section below as that will make it difficult to attach.

The shelf piece first got three holes drilled into it using my milescraft dowel drill guide. This guide ensures that the drill bit is centered and that it is drilling perpendicular to the work piece.

I then slid the shelf piece into the dado and added dowel centers to the holes I had just drilled. Dowel centers are used to transfer the location of the drilled holes to another piece of wood. I slid the upright piece in place and ensured that the shelf was square. To transfer the marks from the dowel centers I just simply tapped on the upright piece.

I then drilled the holes in the upright piece. I again used the milescraft dowel drill guide to ensure I drilled perpendicular to the surface. I used a brad point bit which made it very easy to align with the marks from the dowel centers.

To assemble this extra shelf I first started by adding glue to the dowels and putting them in place. I then added glue to the edges of the shelf piece. I slid it all together and clamped it in place.

To ensure the upright didn't end up moving I added some screws. I drilled, countersunk and added 1 1/4" wood screws. As it wasn't a structural piece, I only added two screws.

I added plugs just like I did in step 8.

Sanding is one of the most boring, but also most important steps. I used a random orbit sander for most of the work. Anywhere I couldn't reach with that I used sandpaper.

For finish I went with a water based polyurethane. I applied three coats with a light sanding between coats.

In order to hang clothes in a closet you need closet rods! I bought some at the local home center and cut them to length using an angle grinder. You could also use a hack saw if you don't have an angle grinder.

For the closet rod flanges I used 3/4" screws into the plywood side and ensured to drill a pilot hole first. On the drywall side I used 1 1/2" screws and as I was not going into a stud I also added drywall anchors on the drywall side.

After the flanges were installed I just dropped the closet rod in place. On one of the sides I ended up adding a midway closet rod as well and I use it to hang pants.

Now the custom closet organizer is made and it can be filled up. You can add boxes or baskets to the make the space more functional or just stack your clothing.
My plan was to add drawers to the bottom two levels and I will be covering that in a future instructable, so make sure to follow me.

I hope you found this project as fun as I did. If you did I would appreciate if you check me out on other social media:

YouTube

Instagram

If you make this project (or something inspired by this project) I would love to see some pictures! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask them in the comments.