Contempory Accent Wall Light

This recycled Marri and brass accent light was designed to incorporate themes of identity and sustainability as a student project in 2021. It is called the 3-1 Lamp as I have Australian, British and Moroccan heritage, and the brass bowl represent finding belonging within those identites.

The light were designed and built over a 6 month period (including research, initial ideas, material exploration, refinement, and prototyping).

How to use this Instructable;

1. Build this 3-1 Lamp (these instructions result in 2 lights) - it creates a lovely soft glow in a living area or bedroom, and is still beautiful when the light is not on. This is due to its colour, texture and pattern (wood grain of the Marri or equivalent hardwood that is available), its aesthetic shape and angle, the boldness and refective quality of the brass, and how the brass and the wood compliment each other.
2. Or, use this design process (or aspects of it) to create your own bespoke accent light that works well in your space.

Please note:

1. This project was made possible with the generous input (planning and build) of Tafe (Community College) design lecturers and technicians, where I studied a Diploma in Visual Arts (Product Design) in 2021. Cutting of the wood, and soldering was performed by staff due to safety precautions, and my skill level at the time.
2. This project makes two lights, due to the way the rectangular wood is cut on an angle (as long as you are willing to get 2 brass bowls made).
3. You may have to outsource some of this project, depending on your skill level and access to equipment. The Brass Bowls in Step 2 are made using a technique called Metal Spinning. This requires training in metal spinning and access to tools (e.g. spoon, rollers, cutters). I outsourced this to a metal fabricator for a reasonable fee, as this was outside my skill set. The brass soldering in Step 8 was done by a lecturer and the soldering of the steel brackets in Step 10 by a technician.

Equipment:

• Woodworking Bench
• with Bench Vice
• Table Saw
• Mitre Saw
• Domino Joiner
• 6 x 5mm x 40mm dominos (e.g. Beech)
• 6 x C-Clamps
• 2 x Band Clamps

Note: (Metal spinning, brass soldering and polishing equipment, and a spray painting booth were used for this project - these can be outsourced if you do not have access to this equipment, or don't have these skills yet).

Safety Equipment:

• Eye protection (safety glasses)
• Hearing protection (ear muffs)
• Safety footwear (steel cap boots)
• Dust mask
• Fitted, high strength disposable gloves

Tools:

• Drill
• Drill bit for metal
• Countersink Drill Bit (for metal)
• Metalwork Hammer
• Steel Claw Hammer
• Metal Snip
• Pliers
• Flat (Steel) File
• Computer
• Calculator
• Ruler
• Pencil and eraser
• Paper - A3 and notepad

Supplies:

• Hard Wood;
• Recycled Marri wood (or similar hardwood) - in good condition;
• Rough Lumber (approximate) size:
• 1 x 626mm L x 108mm W x 78mm T
• 1 x 840mm L x 108mm W x 78mm T
• 1 x 960mm L x 108mm W x 78mm T
• 2 x Brass Bowls*
• 30mm circumference, 40mm H, and approximately 1 mm thick
• *see Step 2 for details
• 1 x Sheet of Brass
• 1mm thick x 150mm x 300mm
• 4 Steel Flat Bars;
• 2 x (400mm L x 13mm W x 2mm T)
• 2 x (387mm L x 13mm W x 2mm T)
• 4 metal rods
• 50mmL x 3mm diameter
• Metal rod - 3mm diamter x 300mm L
• 2 x small LED lights (no more than 30mm diameter) - ideally cordless (battery operated)
• MDF - to make Jigs
• 100ml Woodworking glue - quality, fast-drying, for interior use
• Waterproof abrasive paper ('Wet & Dry');
• 1 sheet each of 180, 240, 320 and 600 grit
• Polishing compounds for Brass
• Etch Primer (small amount of a 400g spray can) - optional
• Metalic Spray Paint (small amount of a 312g spray can) - optional
• Metal Polish - suitable for Brass (small amount of a 250ml spray can)
• 6 x 4mm mounting screws
• 28 brass nails - optional

Source the hardwood required for this project:

1. You may need to substitue Marri wood to a hardwood that is more readily available in your area, and may want to consider using recyled wood.
2. Solid Marri is native to WA, attractive, durable, and relatively easy to use and repair. However it can be challenging to find quality repurposed Marri wood, it is a moderately hard and heavy timber, has a relatively expensive upfront cost, is subject to decay and vunerable to termite attack.
3. The recycled timber supplier smoothed and cut the Marri wood for me into 3 transportable rectangular blocks. I presume a surface planer would be required to smooth the rough wood if you do this yourself. You will need to be careful with recycled wood, ensuring that anything that can damage your woodworking equipment is removed (such as nails).

• Final timber sizes needed:
• 1 x 800mm L x 90mm W x 65mm T
• 1 x 700mm L x 90mm W x 65mm T
• 1 x 522mm L x 90mm W x 65mm T

Order 2 brass bowls with your local metal fabricator (unless you have these skills and access to equipment):

1. The brass bowls are made using a technique called Metal Spinning. This requires training in metal spinning and access to tools (e.g. spoon, rollers, cutters). The bowls seen in these photos were outsourced to a metal fabricator for a reasonable fee.

• You will need 2 bowls made. The final bowl dimensions shoud be 130mm circumference, 40mm H, and approximately 1 mm thick*.
• *In the initial plan drawing attached, I had the thickness as 5mm, but 1 mm thickness is fine and saves on costs.

Cut the planks longways, so that you are able to get 2 lights out the wood (2 lots of 3 pieces - 6 pieces total).

Note: please get assistance with this step if required. I had not trained in this type of cutting at the time, and as this project was done while I was a student, for safety reasons the Technician did the cutting. There are plenty of videos on You Tube about how long miters are cut on a Table Saw.

• The angle of the cut is 68.7 degrees, 15mm from the longest edge.
• Final sizes needed:
• 2 x 800mm L x 90mm W x 50mm T
• 2 x 700mm L x 90mm W x 50mm T
• 2 x 522mm L x 90mm W x 50mm T

Cut the wood pieces at the ends to create the mitre joints that make up the triangles.

• The triangle joints are made up of 3 angles: 40°, 60° and 80°.
• From what I have read online, the best tool for precision mitre joints, where the angles are not 90 degrees, is a quality mitre saw with a sharp, fine-toothed blade.
• Note: please get assistance with this step if required.
• As this project was done while I was studying, the technician was required to do the cutting. We first created a test piece using some spare MDF. One of the angles ended up being 59° instead of 60°. The technician used a jig to assist with cutting on the Table Saw at the desired angle.

Assemble the two wooden triangle frames using domino joints:

1. Mark with a pencil a small line on each joining face where each of the dominos are going to be inserted, at least 5mm from the edges. You will need one domino for each joint (3 dominos per triangle).
2. Do a test run, inserting the dominos, and making sure the 3 wooden pieces align to make triangles with flush edges.
3. Get 3 C-Clamps and 1 Band Clamp ready next to each triangle.
4. Take the pieces apart enough to be able to apply a small to moderate amount of glue into the holes and onto the joining faces. Do one joint at a time, wiping awaying the excess glue.
5. Working on 1 triangle at a time, add the Band Clamp around the triangle, then position 1 C-Clamp onto each joint. This is easier with 2 people! Be sure to check and adjust the alignment of the wood pieces to ensure that they are flush, and wipe away all excess glue. Repeat for the 2nd triangle.
6. Leave to dry as per the wood glue instructions.

Apply wood oil to the triangular frames:

1. This is one of the most enjoyable steps, as the beautiful hardwood (in this case Marri), looks 100% improved as the wood grain is highlighted and the colour enhanced.
2. Choose a finish that works best for you by researching and sampling a few products. I sampled polyurethane, but ended up chosing Danish Oil, for the resulting colour and feel. Another good option would be Hardwax oil.

Make the brass tags that will provide an attachment point to the wooden triangles:

1. Take the brass sheet and using the metal snips, carefully cut out 2 rectangules; 40mm L x 15mm W.
2. Use the flat file to smooth and slighty curl the eges of the tags.
3. Cut out a small hole in each tag that will be where the screw will be inserted.

Solder the brass hook onto the brass bowl, then repeat with the 2nd bowl.

• Note: Outsource this section if you don't have training in soldering or access to equipment and a safe workspace. This section was done by a lecturer.

Polish the brass bowls:

1. Use a Buffing Machine to smooth off any rough areas of the bowls, removing tarnish where possible.
2. Sand the brass bowls by hand using waterproof abrasive paper ('Wet & Dry'). Start with P180, then 240, 320 and 600, removing any last tarnish and smoothing the surfaces.
3. Polish the brass bowls using the buffing wheels on a Bench Grinder with polishing compounds.
4. Note: Outsource this section if you don't have access to equipment and a safe workspace.

Make 2 brackets:

1. The 3-1 Lamp is designed to be hung on an angle, as it works better asthetically. The attachment holes in the brackets are aligned horizontally to make it easier to mount on the wall, while positioning the triangular frame at the correct angle.
2. Source 4 pieces of metal;
3. 2 x (400mm L x 13mm W x 2mm T)
4. 2 x (387mm L x 13mm W x 2mm T)
5. For each bracket, solder the two pieces of metal together. Use a jig to hold the metal together at the correct angle (so that they make an 80 degree angle.
6. Note: The soldering in this section was done by a lecturer - outsource this if you don't have training in soldering or access to equipment and a safe workspace.
7. Source 4 metal rods (approx. 50mm L x 3mm diameter) - 2 for each bracket.
8. Mark out on the brackets where the rods need to attach (see measurements drawing).
9. Solder 2 metal rods to each bracket in the correct positions - get assistance as required. The rods on each bracket should line up horizontally.
10. Drill 3 countersink holes (the wall bracket screws have a diameter of 4mm) into each bracket where the screws will insert into the wall*. *make sure this is on the same side as where the rods stick out (see photos).
11. With a light pencil, mark out on each rectangular wooden frame, where the metal rods will insert. Drill 3mm diameter holes, 5mm deep, straight into the wood (2 holes per frame) - see photos.
12. Test the brackets and make sure they attach well to the wooden frames (they may be a little challeging to get out again!).

Spray paint the brackets, then polish the brass bowls:

• Note: This is an optional step as the brackets will be hidden when mounted. This must be done in a safe workspace with adequate ventilation. Get assistance as required.

1. Spray the brackets with etch primer - following the instruction regarding application, drying times, and safety precautions.
2. Spray the brackets with Metallic Spray Pain (in a matching brass colour) - following the instructions.
3. Do a final polish of the brass bowls using Metal polish (suitable for Brass).

Make the metal attachments that will secure the LED light cord to the back of the wooden frames:

• Note: This step is optional - I ended up not using these attachments. There are some LED lights that are cordless (battery operated) which can be an easier and are a more aesthetic option.

1. Start by cutting out 3 long strips of brass with the metal snips - allow extra width for where the cord will go. Use a metal rod (the size of the light cord) and a metalworking hammer to mould out a hollow area for where the cord will sit.
2. Hold the metal with a benchtop vice and use a flat file to smooth the edges and round the corners of the metal pieces.

• Final brass metal attachment sizes needed:
• 2 x (300mm x 20mm W)
• 2x (60mm L x 20mm W)

Attach the LED light to the back of the brass bowl, then repeat on the other bowl:

1. If using an LED light with a cord, nail in the brass attachments (holding down the cord underneath) with the brass nails - see photos. Be careful to angle the nails so they don't split the wood.

• Note:
• In the case of cordlesss lights, no other attachments are necessary (except for some tape).
• You can experiment with cordless lights that offer different colours, and are remote controlled.

Mount your light (or 2 lights together) onto the wall using the brackets and screws.

Enjoy your beautiful accent light!