Column Clock

Do you like unique designs? Do you have free desk space? Do you need a new clock? In this instructable I briefly walk through the design and construction process of my new desk clock.

Recently I upgraded my workstation by building a new desk and accompanying shelf. I began to decorate and quickly realized that I didn't have a clock. I also realized that I was limited to both desk and wall space and would need to find something compact. After looking for a while I couldn't find anything that fit both my space and style and realized I was going to have to make one myself. While I have always been intrigued by clock making it is not a skill set that I possess. This led me to begin to reimagine how I could repurpose off the shelf clock parts. Before long I had begun to come up with the rough idea of the clock that I made here. While I set out just to make a compact clock, I ended up remaking the humble clock in a more readable way. Though I can read an analog clock, and own digital clocks, I imagined a way to have the best of both worlds in stylish compact form. Through this project I have not only designed and made a beautiful clock but have created a functional item that has helped me be more aware of how long I’ve been working on projects.

• Clock movement
• Ender 3 pro
• Pla filament
• Autodesk Fusion 360
• Cura or equivalent slicer
• Clock movement
• Glass Cup
• Hobby knife or side cutter
• Calipers

Optional

• Alcohol lamp or induction heater

I have always been a fan of unique designs and try to incorporate this interest into my own work. A few years ago, I came across a desk clock that was cone in shape that really kicked off my interest in reimagining everyday items. Being inspired, I began to wonder how far I could push the design of a clock without having to design my own movement. After many days of daydreaming, I began to form an idea of a clock composed of two nested columns. I was interested in creating a clock in which the numbers moved while the “hands” stayed stationary and felt that I might have figured it out. Originally I intended the clock to be much taller and be constructed with columns made of paper. I abandoned this idea when I keep running into design issues relating to producing a clean seam and numbers. When I decided to go fully 3d printed I was initially concerned about weight, so I reduced the height. Having played with 3d printers growing up I knew the importance of designing parts that limited the need for supports. While much of the design would be able to be printed without supports, I knew the numbers would be challenging. I went through a few iterations of number designs but felt that blocky numbers would provide the best readability while remaining easy to print.  

One thing I like to personally see in designs is the use of multiple materials. As I stated earlier, I originally wanted to make the columns from paper, but had to pivot. From the beginning I wanted to design the clock so that the columns where enclosed to give it an encapsulated look and protect it from bumps and air movement. For this I began to brainstorm what everyday items around me I could repurpose as a glass cover. Originally I thought to look for simple flower vases but found that was available was either too large or questionable in quality. I next looked towards small glass vases used for candles but found they were too small to house the clock movement that I had left over from a previous repair. One day while aimlessly browsing target I came across a small simple glass that I thought might work. Luckily for me this ended up being just right in size to hold my movement and fit into my workspace.

While I already had the movement, I do believe that any movement with a 2 ¼ x 2 ¼ x 5/8 inches base and a 5/8 tall x 5/16-inch diameter shaft should work. While I have not used these personally I do believe that a movement like the one linked below should work. I have also included the link to the glass that I used as well.

Clock Movement 

https://www.amazon.com/EMOON-Movement-Mechanism-Silent-Replacement/dp/B07T7HHJR2?th=1

Glass 

https://www.target.com/p/11oz-glass-asheboro-double-old-fashion-glass-threshold-8482/-/A-82304660?afid=google&ref=tgt_adv_xsf&CPNG=Dining&adgroup=200-3&lnm=0232ce70818826f8e138a12e29ec5a4679a51102a20451118e1453c682c174d8&preselect=82304660

Once I had my rough design sketched out, and my collected parts measured, I could begin modeling my design. For this project I used Fusion 360, a software I have previous experience with. While I do not feel this guide should be a tutorial on how to use the software I wanted to highlight two points of my design.

When designing the columns I knew I would need to figure out a way to create evenly spaced uniform numbers. For this I utilized the circular pattern function in sketch mode. After creating 12 evenly spaced points, which at each I drew a small circle, I extruded small columns of a defined length as a new body outside of one of the main columns. From here I used these columns as a reference to align squares onto which I would sketch each number to be later used as a cutting tool. I used this method for both columns and found after a little problem solving it was effective. If there is an easier streamline approach to this I would love for you to let me know in the comments.

After designing the numbers, I knew they would need to be supported. While I utilize supports when needed, I would much rather create a design that can be printed without them. This not only reduces waste, but my poor ender 3 pro is not the greatest at producing easy to remove supports. Knowing my machine’s limitations, I was concerned that using supports would result in a blemished finished product and wanted to find a work around. While the finish design deviated from my original solution the core concept was there. My thought was to create supports in design within the numbers that could be clipped or cut out later. Originally I thought to include small columns under areas in which I as concerned about overhangs but found this to be problematic. While the idea of using designed in support ended up being successful, I eventually settled on another design I will elaborate on later.

Once I had finished my design I could then begin the printing process. If I have learned anything from 3d printing, aside from 3d printer repair, it’s that the design process involves a lot of prototyping. While I originally wanted to print the columns a single layer thick I was running into seem issue leaving ugly blemished and holes. I was worried that increasing the thickness would make the column to heavy but found it not to be a problem. I also found that my idea of using small columns for support in the numbers was initially causing more problems that their worth. They often caused a lot of stringing, would break off sections of numbers when being removed, and did little to prevent overhang issues. After brainstorming I concluded it would be better to support the numbers horizontally instead of vertically as it better aligned to the additive manufacturing process. I realized while printing early iterations of the columns that the zero, the largest number, did not suffer from any overhang issue and that I could use this to my advantage. To do this I added in small horizontal sections among the numbers connected to areas I was concerned of overhang. Originally I made these sections thicker, but found they caused issues when cutting. After making them thinner they were less likely to break but still left a small mark behind. I did not like how this looked and began to seek an alternative method. Eventually I settled on using a heated hobby knife to help cut through the plastic and found this to work great. While I personally used an alcohol I do believe that an induction heater might be the better choice if available. While the alcohol lamp worked wonderfully it did seem to leave a soot on the blade that could stain the print.  

After I had successfully printed all my parts I quickly put them together to see how it looked. Being pleased with the results I then installed the clock movement and let it run overnight. At this point I was still concerned about the weight and needed to ensure it keep accurate time. Throughout the evening and in the morning I check the clock irregularly. After a full day I was pleased to see that it was still accurate and decided to call it finished.

For slicing I personally use Cura and will list my settings fro this project below. The white filament used is Polymaker Polyterra white Pla and the blue is Inland CornFlower Blue Pla both printed with the same settings. Generated supports where only needed to print the base for which I used tree supports.

Hotend: 200 C

Bed: 60 C

Print Speed: 35 mm/s

Layer height: 0.16 mm

Once you have all your parts printed you are just about done. As stated earlier, the columns will need a small amount of processing before they are ready to use.  Rather you are clipping or cutting the supports care should be taken as the numbers are fragile. Once the supports are removed the white background can be placed into the inner column making the numbers more legible. After this, the clock movement can be placed into the base and tightened down. I found it best to go ahead and add the battery into the movement at this stage compared to later.  I also found that a small piece of ribbon placed under the battery helps to remove it later. Once the movement is installed you can go ahead and place the columns onto the shaft. I designed the parts so that the holes where intentionally small so I could ensure a tight fit. Mine happened to be a bit too small and I shaved off a thing layer of plastic by rotating them on my side cutters. After Installing my columns, I noticed that the was a small amount of play in the portion of the shaft that corresponded to the hour. This caused the outer column to occasionally rest on the inner column. I was concerned at first that this would cause some issues with keeping time but found this to not be a problem personally. After placing the hand into the slot, you can place the glass over top. Be careful with this step as I found it easy to knock the columns out of place. Once assembled all that is left is to set the time. I found the clock is the most readable when the hand is set to line up with the bottom of the numbers. This helps to eliminate some confusion as you know anything fully passed the line should be read.

To say that I am pleased with my design would be an understatement. Not only did I create something unique and beautiful, but something that is functional. I often find myself looking at it not to tell the time, but just to watch it work. It is pleasing to see your ideas come to life and wild to see how far my cad and design skills have come. If you are interested in printing one for yourself I have included a link to it below. With the stl files I have also included a step file for easy remixes and edits. I was concerned that the variation in available clock movements might be a problem and wanted to make it as easy to adjust the design if needed.  I also have had individuals show interested in a version without a glass, so I have included a secondary optional base without the lip that can be used instead. Please let me know what you think of my design and upload a picture if you decide to make one for yourself.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/427400