CNC Machined Voronoi Box

Boxes

Everyone has it, everyone needs one. Let's make one!

I always wanted to create my own furniture and desktop accessories. I could buy them, but I want to have meaningful items in my room, even if they serve the most basic roles such as holding items. I can 3D print them, but I'm not a fan of plastic and also want to expand my knowledge about machining and designing in Fusion 360.

I just started learning Fusion 360 CAM and decided that a simple box would be a great project. But a simple box is too simple, right? So I added extra difficulty and decided to add the Voronoi pattern to the challenge. It's an immense opportunity to learn both Fusion's CAD and CAM.

This project is reproducible by any desktop mill or router, so don't worry if you don't have the best mill for the job.

The workflow will be split into multiple sections

• The raw sketch on a paper
• Sketching and designing in Fusion 360
• Using Fusion 360 Voronoi generator plugin
• 3D printing the prototype
• Creating CAM
• Setting up the machine and the stock
• Milling
• Final assembly and assessment

Main items

• 3 Axis milling machine(router or desktop mill can do the job)
• 8 x M3 0.5 x 12mm screws
• Aluminum stock 100mm by 100mm by 10mm (preferably 6000 series)
• 3D printer (Optional)
• CAD and CAM (I'm using Fusion 360)

Tools used in CNC

• Face mill (whatever diameter)
• Endmill Diameter 4 mm (For pockets)
• Endmill Diameter 8 mm (Side milling)(or you can use 4mm as well)
• Drill 5.5 mm and 2.5 mm(for M3 threads)
• M3 threading tool (M3x0.5), I threaded holes by hand, because I don't trust the machine.

When imagining the idea, a quick sketch helps a lot. It helps me to put an idea into perspective before I design them in Fusion 360. The drawing should be only for orientation purposes, so I don't waste too much time drawing(my preference).

I want to have a box for holding my pills. So I decided to make a base box that I can scale later if needed.

Dimension:

• Length 100mm
• Width 100mm
• Height 50mm

As you will see the actual dimensions will be smaller

The assembled box is made of:

• Base plate with M3 thread holes
• 2 sides each 50mm height and 100mm in width
• 2 sides each 50mm height and 90mm in width
• 8 x M3x0.5 HEX Screws

The thickness of the box is based on the stock we have. I'll be using 100x100x10mm aluminum stock however the overall thickness is 8mm.

Why are actual dimensions smaller? It's because we take 1mm of each side to prevent the part from having a "raw stock look".

I suggest using 6000 series aluminum as it's the best for later customization but you can take any stock, even wood if you like.

In this step, I will show you the designing part of Fusion 360. There are pictures of each step to help you orientate.

Images are in chronological order

Creating new component and drawing up a base sketch

• First, I created a new component and named it "Base".
• Next, created a new sketch on the XY plane. Selected 2-point Rectangle and used origin as the starting point. Both dimensions should be 100mm. This is the approximate stock size.

• Then I selected tool "Offset" and clicked on the rectangle, (As seen on the image). Typed 1mm (or -1mm if sides are switched so that the new rectangle faces inward). Selected the rectangle and changed it to "Construction".

  Now design will have a 98x98 actual size. Why? By taking 1mm from each side,I will have a nicer finished surface.

• I used "Offset" tool again and offset 1st rectangle by 9mm. This is the width of the side. It's a reference for the Voronoi pattern.
• Using "Circle" tool and placing a 5,5mm circle between 2 and 3 rectangle in the middle (Dimension it from the second rectangle in the middle for 4mm) Dimension it from the side by 12mm. (See the image for help)
• I repeated the process for all other 4 corners.

Extruding

• Using Extrude tool, I picked the whole sketch(including circles)and extruded it for 8m,

Getting the Voronoi Generator.

With Autodesk's App Store, you can quickly search for any plugin and install it in minutes

• Navigate to https://apps.autodesk.com/ , select Fusion 360, and type "Voronoi generator", You should find a generator made by Autodesk. Select win64 version(if you use win), download and install.
• Restart Fusion.

Using the Voronoi generator

1. First, I hid the body I just created(So that only the sketch is visible).
2. The plugin should be located under "Create" tab at the bottom. A box opens up where you can select the sketch or profile. Select the innermost rectangle and click on "use profile size".
3. The width and height should be exactly 82mm, add 3-4mm to both (The pattern has a "buffer" between border and cells). Click Voronoi editor.
4. Another tab opens where we can generate the pattern.
5. Cell style should be "curved"(as we can't machine straight edges, but you can use it for laser cutting!),
6. In the cell count slider, you can see the pattern changing depending on the number of cells, I suggest using between 20-30 cells as too much generates small cells which are impossible to machine (I've tried).
7. Click publish. The sketch pattern should appear next to the sketch.
8. Navigate to Top plane for a better visual, select the whole sketch and drag it into inner rectangle. Place it approximately in the middle (if you don't see the sketch, double click on the sketch and edit it).

Extruding

1. Finally, I unhid the body, selected each cell, and extruded through(see image for help). Now that the base is finished (adding holes comes later), ill continue the work on the sides.
2. Again, I created a sketch on top of the body. Used a rectangle tool to outline the part and offset it by 8mm(Width!). Added 2 small rectangles in the corner (each 4mm). I repeated this for each corner. (See the image for reference)
3. The first side should be extruded for about 48mm without selecting squares (Don't forget to select "Create new Component"!). I did the same for the other side but this time I selected both squares on each side, so the side is longer.

Now we have 1 base plate with 4 sides of which 2 are 98mm long and other two 90mm

By this point, we are half the way designing the box

Placing Voronoi pattern on each side

Instead of placing 4 unique patterns on each side, which would take a lot of time, I simply created just 2 and extend them to the other two.

To help me orientate I used "project" Tool(P key). Picked the inner face of the side I wanted to place a pattern on then. (see the image for more help). This is important as placing the pattern can be tricky

Important! To avoid any problems you should activate the component on which the pattern is placed.

I repeated the process by selecting the same face and used Voronoi generator. (in the Voronoi editor we repeat as before (20-30 cells))

A pattern appeares next to the model. I just drag it into our projected sketch and finished it. Again In the extruded box, I selected individual cells but this time I put direction as "Two Sides". Drag both sides to "cut through"(See image)

Tip! If Extrude command doesn't cut through both components but just one, go back and in the Extrude box and in the "objects to cut" select both bodies/components.

After finishing one side, I repeated the same process for the other side. But this time I edited the projected sketch and offset it additionally by 4mm on each vertical side. (See image). Then I placed Voronoi pattern and extruded the same as before.

Now our box is almost complete. The only thing that is missing is the holes for screws.

By this point you can also 3D print the box, just use combine tool to merge all the components together for a better printing experience(i printed each separately to accurately see the design).

I flipped the part and used "Holes" tool. Using 1st sketch(Where I created 5,5mm holes), I placed each hole. The hole is around size 3mm and depth 12mm (m3 hex screw!). In the hole type, I used "Counterbore" and made the "hat" of the screw 5mm in diameter and 3mm in length (See the image)

Tip! Check the box Modeled. This will model our threads as we need them for our 3D print.

But wait, after analyzing the design I realized that the screws intersect with our pattern, so if I were to machine in this state, the screws would be visible, which would make the box look ugly. In order to fix this, I used "Analysis" tool(which cuts through the model unveiling the problem),

I selected the side and drag it until I saw the screws. Found the right Voronoi sketch and using Arc and Spline tool shortened up the pattern, so the screw will have a solid body to thread in (See image for help).

Great! Our box is finished! Now onto 3D printing!

Using a 3D printer for prototyping is a great idea. We can see and fix problems before we get into a real deal especially when it comes to milling as the material is not so cheap.

I'm using Cura slicer and default template "Super Quality".

Settings for Cura

• 10% infill
• No supports
• Gyroid pattern
• Build plate adhesion is set to none.

If you wish to use just 3D printed version I suggest using Combine tool in Fusion. Or you can create solid cube, using shell command (5mm or custom), and place voronoi pattern without extra work.

I printed each component separately and assemble it.

Looks great! Now onto machining the real deal.

This section is dedicated to explaining you the machining process, and everything major is accompanied by images.

The setup and operations for each of the sides are almost the same(the size is the only thing different). So I will only show machining of the "Base" plate

What I love about Fusion is its ability to quickly switch between CAD and CAM. So if I forget to add a feature or additional sketch it takes me just a few minutes instead of importing and exporting each file if I were to use different CAM software. And soon as I was done I forgot to add few things

Derive

Before I switched to CAM, I derived all the components. This is to organize the process.

Why derive? Why not just save as it is? By using derive function, the component will remain connected to the original "assembly" or part. So if I make a change in the main file, it will automatically update it. Keeping you up to date.

If you are worried about sharp edges in the cells, we fix that by setting the minimum cutting radius to 1mm.

Additional sketches

• Additionally, I created 2 more sketches to help me with machining. In 1st sketch, I added a point for each cell serving as predrill orientation as this will allow us to avoid ramping and subsequently speed up machining time.
• In 2nd sketch, I added 4 rectangles, 2 on each side(See attached image for help). This is to contain the tool in 3D Adaptive, as we cannot mill the entire stock in one go due to jaws being in the way.

Now our part is ready to be machined!

First, I selected the "base" and activate it. Hide the rest of the components(the sides)

Setting up the part

Now I switched from the Design part to the Manufacturing part

Creating new setup

• I choose to put work coordinate system(WCS) at the bottom corner of the stock. so that the z-axis is pointed upwards. (See the image). This is where the parallel sits,from which Z-0 is(WCS is located)
• The stock size is fixed and the dimensions are slightly larger than the estimated stock, so to account for inaccuracy during stock cutting.
• The stock should be 100.5mm X, 100.5mm Y, and 10 mm Z
• Naming the program and set WCS to 1

Why is the stock larger? If we cut a bit too much and have too much stock and fail to realize that, It can happen that the tool crashes into the stock.

Operations

Facing operation.

• For the first operation, I used "Face" and used my 50mm facing tool.
• In the geometry tab, I used preset stock selection and put 50mm as stepover in Pasess tab. (This is how much it's going to take at once)

Drilling operation

• Next, I drill the holes for "Predrill". Use a 5.5mm drill, and selected points I sketched in each cell. I put bottom height to stock bottom.

Pocket operation.

• For clearing out the cells I found out that the best operation for it is .2D adaptive.
• I used a 4mm endmill, selected all the pockets, and under Linking - Ramp selected predrill. I reused all the points again.
• Also, don't forget to uncheck "Stock to leave". This will finish the cell in one go, instead of leaving the additional stock to machine later.

Now for the last 2 operations.

I again used drill operation

• This time the tool is 2.5mm in diameter as the M3 thread requires it and picked all the screw holes.
• And as before bottom height is set to stock bottom.

For the last operation,

I used 3D adaptive and 8mm endmill.

• I selected both rectangles from an additional sketch that I made before.
• Set tool containment to the outside boundary.
• And Stock contours selection is nothing. So our selection is entire stock instead of just the model. (See image for additional information)

Flipping the part

Since our part is done from the other side, I created a new setup and turned the part in order to machine the second side.

I again used Facing operation and drill operations, one with 5.4 drill and tap

• One for 5.4(head of the screw)
• M3 tap threading (Setting bottom height way lower at least -2mm, for proper thread)

And lastly, I used 3D adaptive again to shave stock from the sides,

And with this complete, our part is now finished

Now that we are done with Fusion, we can finally start getting to machining.

But before that, we need to set up a few things and prepare the stock

• I've cut 4 stock pieces 50x100 and one 100x100, I cut the stock a bit longer, in order to account for saw size and inaccuracies during cutting.
• I deburred each side and washed it.

It is important to deburr the stock in order for jaws to grab them better!

I initially wanted to machine this piece in my friend's router but I recently got an opportunity to make CNC-inspired Instructables, since our machine shop recently acquired a used mill. My boss allowed me to make some projects in my free time, so I did. This box is absolutely machinable on any home router, any small mill, or desktop mill, just it will take much longer to complete.

Oh boy, what I signed up for because it took me 8h to finally make something I'm proud of.

In this section, I will show you the process of machining

First, I started preparing the workplace.

• I cleaned off previous chips
• Oiled and cleaned the jaws
• Setup parallels
• Warmed up the spindle and checked coolant levels.

Machining

• I loaded the program and went through it, to check for proper tools on each position,
• I selected the "Clock" tool with which I can manually set up WCS, or where the 0 of the part is.
• I jogged to the stock and from each side to put pressure on the clock, for about 6.00 o'clock (See images!)

My hand (and yours) should always be on the stop button or potentiometer, so if anything goes wrong, we can prevent the worst from happening.

Machining went as planned, First operation was Facing, which took about 1min to complete. Next comes the drill, which I soon realized that the drill is drilling too fast and stopped the program, Again I changed speeds in Fusion and loaded the program again. This time it took longer but the drill wasn't suffering too much. The scariest operation was 2D adaptive as speeds and feeds are quite high, it made quite loud noise also(time ti took was about 5min). The final operation is 3D adaptive which I used for outside. I repeated the process on the other side, and for the sides. In less than 8h I was complete with the machining.

I've broken 2 endmills, and few pieces of stock to finish the box.

My list of beginner errors or tips for you

• Make sure that stock is securely affixed to jaws. The entire stock went flying around, because due to vibrations from 2D adaptive caused stock to loosen up and fly away, So keep your stock tight folks!
• Also, make sure that parallels are taken out before you start machining! You can see on the image what happened.
• Don't forget the coolant or the air, because aluminum is a sticky material and it will quickly clog up your endmill and break it(each setup required repositioning of coolant, and I forgot about it)
• Make sure your X, Y, or Z-axis is 100 accurate especially when flipping part over because if not you are going to you will break it

With this complete I only washed it in industrial cleaner, to shave off coolant.

Finally, after completing both design and machining parts I assembled with all sides with 8x M3 screws which I threaded manually(I don't trust the machine).

I learned quite a lot, and I'm happy that this project turned out great. I experimented with lots of other patterns but settled on this one.

This box now sits in my room holding the pills, such a great purpose right?

If you have any tips or ideas let me know.

I hope you enjoyed it as well.!