Building a Modern Media Console, TV Stand, Credenza

I was commissioned to build this large media console for her living room. The customer gave me the size she wanted, and told me to just do whatever I wanted with it. I'm so happy with the way this turned out! I love the contrast between the dark walnut and the white cubbies.

Be sure to check out the full build video!

I also have full plans available, with detailed dimensions, on my website: www.bevelishcreations.com

Contain Affiliate Links

■ Gorilla Gripper

■ White Marker

■ Plywood Router Bit

■ Microjig Gripper Blocks

■ Microjig Gripper

■ Crosscut Sled

■ Shelf Pin Jig

■ Soft Close Hinges

■ Soft Close Drawer Slides

■ Cabinet Handles

■ Primer

■ White Spray Paint

I started by breaking down the walnut plywood I used for the build. I first used my tracksaw to cut the panels down to their final depth. Then I tilted the tracksaw to 45 degrees and cut the miters on the ends for the top and bottom panels. And I cut the miters on the ends of the shorter panels at my table saw. I used my tracksaw on the longer panels because they're too long to fit on my table saw.

Once all the panels are cut to size, it's time to cut the dados. I used a router bit that's specifically sized for plywood to cut these dados. I used an attachment on my router to cut the rabbet along the back edge for fitting a 1/4" back panel later on.

After the dados are cut, I pressed the panels against each other along the edges, making sure the front and back edges are flush. I started to layout the position for the Dominoes I'll use for assembly. I drilled the Domino mortises, applied glue inside the mortises and inserted the Dominoes inside. Finally, I glued up the case panels together.

While the case is drying, we can start working on the trim. Start by ripping the pieces to their final width. Then I used my dado set to cut a dado along the length of the part to create the "lip" in the final part. Then I cut 45-deg miters on both ends of just one of the short pieces, and cut a 45-deg on just one end of a long pieces. I glued that single short trim on and used it as a reference to figure out the location to cut the miter on the other end of the long piece. Once that's marked out, I made the cut and glued on the first long piece. I continued this procedure around until all four trim pieces were glued on.

Use referential measurements to figure out the final size of the partitions. Cut them out of 3/4" plywood, apply glue into the dados in the in the case, and slide the partitions in one at a time. Once the partitions are glued in, cut more walnut hardwood strips to size and glue them on to the front edges of the partitions to coverup the plywood edges.

Once all the partitions are glued in, I used a jig to drill holes for the shelf pins into the partitions.

I used 1/4" plywood for the back panel. Just measure the space between the rabbets cut out previously, and cut the panel down to size to fit. I used two separate pieces for this, one to cover up the storage on the left side of the console, and one two cover up the bottom area with the drawers. Only addition I added was a cover for the wires to pass through, which I designed in Shapr3D and Fusion 360, and then cut out on my CNC. This cover allows to be rotated to create the opening for the wires to pass through, but can also be rotated to close up the opening to cover up the hole if someone isn't going to pass wires through.

The back panel is attached with glue and brad nails.

Once everything is glued up, I sanded everything up to 220 grit and applied a polyurethane finish over everything.

Next, I used 3/4" MDF to make the cubbies and partitions. I cut the case of the cubbies by referencing the opening on the case of the console. These will also have 45-deg miters on the ends. In addition, I will also cut a 45-deg bevel along the length of all the parts. Just like we did for the main case, we will also cut stop-dados into these panels for receiving the partitions.

Once all the parts are cut to size, I used painter's tape to cover up the glue surfaces and began prepping it for painting by first applying a couple layers of primer. Then I came back and sprayed on a couple layers of white paint. Once the paint is completely cured, I used the tape method to glue everything up.

Just like I did with the main case, I also cut holes in the back for wire pass through, and I added the rotating covers as well. And the entire cubby assembly is friction fitted into the main case. You can also add screws to attach it to the main case, but this was a perfect fit and didn't require additional attachment points.

With the case set aside, I began working on the drawers. First, I installed the drawer slides, and used that as reference to cut the 1/2" drawer box pieces down to size, and attached hardwood trim around all the edges. For the longer front and back pieces, I cut rabbets on the ends. I also took a couple of passes to cut a dado along the bottom of all the pieces for attaching a 1/4" bottom panel later on.

I attached the shorter sides of the box to the front and back pieces first, slid the 1/4" bottom panel in place, and closed off the fourth side. Everything was attached using glue and brad nails.

Once the drawer boxes were slid in place, I cut the drawer fronts to size with 3/4" plywood. Once again, all edges were covered using hard wood trim. Then I laid out the placement for the drawer pulls and drilled the holes for them. Then I used those holes as guides to drill the holes in the drawer box, and attached the drawer fronts to the drawer box with the drawer pulls. I added a couple more screws to strengthen the connection between the parts.

Last piece for the case are the doors, which were also made from 3/4" plywood. After cutting them down to size and applying hard wood trim around them, I used a jig to cut the pockets for the soft close door hinges. Then just like the drawers, I cut the holes and attached the door pulls, and finally attached the doors to the case.

The legs are made from 8/4 walnut. After milling the stock, I ripped the pieces down to width for the legs. Then I used a tapering jig to cut the first taper on the legs. I taped the off-cut back onto the workpiece, rotated the piece, and cut the second taper to finish the leg pieces. Next, I placed the legs on the corners of the case for reference to figure out the length of the stretchers. Once I have those laid out, I cut the stretchers to their final lengths. Repeat this process for all stretchers.

I used dominoes to glue the feet to the stretchers, working one piece at a time until everything came together. The last thing I did was use a rabbet bit on my router to cut a rabbet along the top edge of the leg assembly.

Finally, I used a Forstner bit to cut recesses into the top surface of the leg assembly for some figure-8 clips to sit into. And the other end of the clips attaches directly to the bottom side of the case to complete the assembly!