Building Solid, Variable & Removable Wall Bars

Instead of stressing (destroying) the door frame by an expanding pull-up bar or attaching all the weight directly to the frame, I built pillars using small wooden boards. These pillars rest on the trim/baseboard, allowing most of the load to be transferred to the ground.

What you'll need:

1. 2 wooden boards (either plywood or another slightly harder wood—I used Siberian larch, as it was the only hardwood available at my local store)
2. Wooden dowels/bars
3. 4 (or 6) screws and anchors
4. Small piece of wood or plywood for a template
5. Some scrap wood for the stoppers

Tools:

1. A drill with a bit (Forstner, spade or hole bit)
2. Saw (I have a miter saw but hand or jigsaw will work as well)
3. Fretsaw or scroll saw
4. Screwdriver
5. Router with the top bearing flush trim pattern bit
6. 2 Clamps
7. A bit of sanding paper
8. Safety gear (headset and googles)

Begin by drilling holes with a diameter slightly smaller than the wooden bar. I drilled 3 holes in an 'L' shape and then used a scroll saw to remove the excess wood. If you don’t have a scroll saw, a fretsaw or a rasp along with a bit of sandpaper should do the job as well.

Decide where you want to have holes for the bars - I spaced them 20cm apart since this provides flexibility, allowing us to rearrange the bars or install multiple ones.

To set up the router - Clamp the template onto the pillar and place the router on top of your template. Plunge the router until the bearing engages with the guide/template surface and the spinning/cutting part is positioned lower. Since this is a flush-trimming straight bit, it will trim the wood flush with the template.

Once you have cut out the template, you can lower the bit and guide it along the wood with the bearing.

I finished rounding the edges with a round-over bit, but you can also sand them down if you prefer.

Drill 3 holes for each pillar, place screw anchors and secure them in place. I positioned the pillars on the trim/baseboard to ensure that the load is transferred to the ground.

First, cut bars to the length. Since the diameter of the bars is larger than the template holes, you will need to shape them into and oval shape to prevent the bars from turning and overstretching your arm - it will also be easier and safer to hang on them.

I simply wedged the corners with a utility knife until I could slip them into the 'L' slot.

From a scrap piece of wood, I cut pieces that were the same dimensions as the slot. I sanded the corners down and made final adjustments with a utility knife. When you slide them into the slot, the bar is secured and can not slip out. While this may not be necessary for the top bars, it can be helpful if you start exercising with elastic bands on the lower levels.

• Use the pillars/side boards as the growth chart
  
• Hang a swing
  
• Make a home training center by hanging sling trainer, rubber powerbands, rings, etc.
  
• Make a climbing wall
  
• Hang your laundry
  
• The only limit is your ingenuity!