Beginners Guide to Drawers. Measure, Cut, Assemble, Mount, Finish. No Jig Method

I'm going to show you everything you need to know to build a super simple, very sturdy, great looking cabinet drawer! There is no special tools (but there could be if you wanted) and with some patience, anybody can do this and update a kitchen, or add some to a piece of furniture. A jig can make this easier to line up, but I'll show you how to do it without one. It's a lot of info to take in, but very straight forward. Once you learn how to do this and have the lightbulb go off, it will open so many new things you may have been avoiding building or fixing because of drawers. Especially paying somebody to build one to replace one that may be broken in a existing piece. I love doing it, and every time I open one up I'm proud of it. So lets get into it!

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• 3/4 Opening Euro Slides (if you want these, least expensive and easiest)
• Full Extension Slides (if you want these, mid price)
• Soft Close Slides (if you want these, most expensive and need to lined up perfect)
• Drawer Pull of your choice
• 1/2" or 3/4" sanded plywood (for the sides, I use Birch)
• 1/4" sanded plywood (for the bottom)
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Combination square
• Drill and Impact (Impact is optional)
• Pocket Hole Jig (large or small) and screws
• Wood Glue
• Edge Banding (iron and trimmer to install)
• Brad Nailer (or finishing nails and hammer)
• Circular Saw and Track Guide (or table saw)
• Miter saw
• Sander and 220 grit paper
• Drawer Slide Jig (if you want to use it)

Before we start anything, we need to choose our slides. The most common are 3/4 opening Euro slides (the white ones), and full extension ball bearing slides. You can get both with or without soft close, the Euro soft close are harder to find, although soft close does add some cost and a bit more precision to it, not much to worry about though. The Euro slides are the easiest to install as they are a bit more forgiving and typically better on a light small drawer since they open so easy, but they aren't as refined feeling when in use. The ball bearing slides are nicer in operation and much smoother, but take a bit more measuring precision.

With the slides decided upon, now we need to know the length of them. To determine that decide if your drawer front when completed is going to be inset in the frame like the little block I have shown, or is it going to mount overlay style on the face of the project. This is important because that is a additional 3/4" in or out for the slide. I went inset. Then take a total measurement of your available space and subtract 1" to leave a space behind the drawer so it doesn't hit the back and bottom out. Because I went inset I also have to take off 3/4" for my drawer front (but if you go overlay you don't take this off). My total opening was 16.5" deep, so my math went like this: 16.5 - 1 - .75 = 14.75" total depth available, so I ordered 14" slides. They go in 2" increments so the next slide was 16" and obviously too large.

Following up from the last step, my slides are 14", but my total depth was 14.75" available. This will be the depth of your drawer side panels, but you can round it down if you like to match the slides.

Let's check height next. Now if you have a single opening between 2 points you can take your total opening height and subtract 1" and that will give you your total height with a nice snug fit at the end. However the easiest math and mounting, especially for multiple drawers will be to remove 2" per drawer, this gives you 1" below and another 1" above the drawer. So if your total opening height is 7" you'd make a 5" tall drawer. Now if you have a large opening like I do and you are adding 2 different sized drawers to it the same thing applies. My total opening was 18", I am adding 2 drawers so that's 4" total I have to take off, that leaves me with 14" total drawer height. Now I could make 2 drawers of 7", but I am going to make a 9" drawer and a 5" drawer. You can do whatever combination you like as long as they come to your total drawer height.

With the height done, let's check our width. Typically most consumer drawer slides are 1/2" thick regardless of ball bearing or euro but double check your instructions for the size of it. Because we have a slide on each side we need to account for that, so 1" total, member that. Now cut off 2 small scraps of the wood you are using to build the drawer whether it is 1/2" or 3/4" plywood (1/2" for more space but a lighter drawer, 3/4" for a heavy duty drawer). This is important because sometimes the wood is not perfectly to size so this allows up to account for that. Now take your 2 scraps and place them on one side, these are simulating your drawer sides. From there take a remaining measurement of the opening, from your blocks to the other side and then subtract your 1" for the slides. I had 19 1/8" - 1" = 18 1/8" and that gives you the size of your front and back drawer panel. Now if you want to and are accurate at measuring and cutting, you can also take another 1/16" off that as drawers are better to be slightly undersized just a smidge than too tight.

Now for the fun stuff. We need to cut our plywood down to size, but it can be tricky to cut a full sheet. If you don't have the ability to and trust your local store can cut it to the exact sizes you need, go that route. I wouldn't try to cut a full sheet on a table saw at home because it is very heavy and awkward and most people don't have large cast iron saws. I much prefer a circular saw with with a good blade and a track guide, and the plywood sitting on some sawhorses. I use this to cut my drawer height, make a rip the length of the sheet at my 9" and 5". Then with the strips I have cut, take them to the miter saw and cut my side panels and front panels using the measurements we grabbed in the last step.

With everything cut, set your pocket hole jig for whatever material thickness you are using (mine is 3/4") and determine they are all the same side up. Typically there is a nice and not as nice side, the not nice side is the side we will be drilling our holes into so we don't want to get them mixed up. Take your front and back panels only, then flip them to the not nice side and drill your holes on each end. I put 2 holes in each end of my 5" drawer and 3 in my 9" drawer, that is plenty, more is not needed. I keep them about 1" from the edges and then another in the middle or gaps of 3" or so between screws. This part is optional but to give a cleaner look to the tops of the drawers I like to edge band them. You can find iron on edge banding from the same place you bought your wood, just make sure to get the same species of wood you are using. Take a piece, iron it on and press it down, let it sit for 30 seconds or so and trim it off using a trimmer, razor, chisel or knife. The trimmer is best. Then give all the pieces a quick buzz with 220 grit. After that just soften the transition lightly from the edge banding to the ply by hand with 220 grit, making a slight curve with your hand.

With them all prettied up we can build it. Take a panel with pocket holes and another without, make sure the tops are all up. Add a bead of glue to the piece with the pocket holes, then add a side panel, making sure the not so nice sides are both facing out and the side panel goes away from the pocket holes. You can use clamps to hold them but it isn't necessary, you can just hold them, making sure they are flush on top and screw them together. Then add the other pocket hole panel the same way, making sure the pocket holes face out. After that add the other side panel. This way we aren't smearing the glue because it just butts up to them instead of squeezing in between. Now with your basic box, the pocket holes are going to be on the rear where nobody will see them, on the front hidden behind the drawer face where nobody will see them, and because the sides are full length and we edge banded, there will be no exposed plywood edges anywhere giving us a nice clean look!

Grab a total length and width of your drawer box and cut a bottom out of 1/4" plywood (you can use 3/8" if you need it beefier) using a track guide or table saw, then finish cut however you have available. With it trimmed to size, flip the box over so it is bottom side up. Add a thin bead of wood glue around the whole perimeter, then start setting the bottom panel down 1 corner at a time, this will prevent setting it down and having to move it around smearing the glue. Now once you have it in place you can just let it dry with some weight on it like a dumbell, but a quicker and stronger way is a brad nailer with some 5/8" nails. Keep your brads dead center of your plywood drawer box panels, avoid getting close to the edge. Pin one corner on each side of it, then double check the drawer for square, it it is out a bit, pull it into place and pin another corner. Then pin the rest of the corners. After that I usually go in the centers, and then the centers again. That spaces them evenly, spreads the strength out, and now you don't have to wait for the glue to dry.

I said before we had no exposed plywood, well this is the only spot we do, but we can fix it! This is why we didn't nail close to the edge. Take a router and load up a 45 degree chamfer bit and set the depth of it using the box and bottom, we only want to just remove the plywood bottom, and none of the sides. With the depth set, route the whole bottom side. If there is any fraying clean it up with some 220 grit sandpaper by hand and then flip it over and have a look. Now the plywood bottom has disappeared for a super clean look!

If you are using a euro hinge, they just pull and slide apart. If you are using ball bearing extend it fully, there is a tab lock on it, press it down and pull them apart to have a large (frame) and small (drawer) piece. Get a 1/16" drill bit and a screw from your slides and set the depth of the bit in your drill to the depth of the screw threads, this will stop you from drilling too deep. Using the 2 same 3/4" scrap plywood pieces we used before, set them along the side wall and then rest your slide on that. If you are using a euro slide only set the plywood spacer in the middle flat area of the slide since the front is thicker and back kicks down. Now set your slide depth for inset or overlay opening you measured for before, using a block of the same material you are using for your drawer front, mine is 3/4" thick poplar, and referencing any additional setback your slides might want in the instructions. Holding it in place, slide it out to reveal the screw holes. Take the drill and bit and make a hole in the slide front hole, then without moving the slide, add a screw. Then move to the middle and repeat the process, and again on the rear. Don't be too worried about which hole to use on the rear, but back here don't leave the screw fully tight, I back it off maybe a half turn or so after by hand, this just lets the rear self align slightly, especially if it soft close. Then repeat for the other side. Once they are installed, extend the slides out and slide in the part we removed earlier. Make sure to reference your drawer slide instructions as well for anything else to pay attention to.

Using a couple scraps of the 1/4" plywood we used earlier for the bottoms, cut 2 of them about the same depth of the drawer and place them on the bottom of your cabinet on each side. Then take and set the drawer on top of them in the hole, make sure to press down on the drawer box so it is sitting flat. Slide the drawer out slightly bringing the drawer slides with it, just until the front mounting hole is exposed, and push down on the drawer again, we need to make sure the drawer box stays flat on the floor. Using a scrap block pull the slide out to be flush with the drawer box, and then push it back in to set it about 1/32" back from the front. Then it's the same as before, drill your hole and add your screw. Then do the other side. Pull the drawer out a little farther again until you see the next hole, bringing the spacers it's sitting on forward as well and keep making sure it's flat on them. Drill your hole and add your screw, repeat for the other side. Now pull it out fully, releasing the locking tabs on the sides and add the rear screw the same way. Again, back this one off ever so slightly by hand for easier self aligning. Now reinstall the box. They make take a time or 2 before sliding nicely as things realign.

If you are using the euro hinges they are super easy. With the box outside the cabinet and on its side, just lay the slide on it. It wraps around the bottom edge of the drawer. Slide it to the front just like the ball bearing ones, and set it back 1/32" as well. You can choose to add your screws on the sides or bottom of these slides, I prefer bottom for better bite as the side tend to land right between the plywood pieces and want to split them apart.

This part can be really confusing, but I'll give it my best shot. Mounting a slide when you have a bottom floor to reference is fairly easy and straightforward right? Right. What do you do if you have one that seems to be floating in free space like I do, where there is no floor, or even a divider in the frame to reference from? Math! Yay!.....said nobody ever lol. Still has to be done, so get out your measurements from before, we are going to need them.

Now if you are install the same size drawers all the way up, even if it's more than 2 this will work. We need to divide our opening into equal "boxes". In my case it's for 2, so take the total opening height from floor to top and divide that into 2, or how many drawers are being installed. That measurement is your virtual box openings for your drawers, so take that and make marks all the way up at every interval of that measurement. My opening was 18" so I'd make a mark at 9". Now to mount the slide we need something to set it on, we need to cut a spacer. So take your virtual box opening measurement, and then measure your slide, subtract your slide measurement from that and that gives you the size of spacer to cut out. It will place your next slide in the same spot, in the next "box" up. Lets say the opening was 8", my slide is 1 7/8" wide, that leaves 6 1/8" so I'd cut my spacers at that. However I need to adjust my measurement since I'm making 2 different sized drawers. In this case I already know how much I've allotted for my drawers. My bottom is 9" tall, but my virtual "box" available is 2" more than that. So I'd take 11" - 1 7/8" = 9 1/8" spacers. Set your spacers on top of your first slide, get your set backs correct and mount it just the same as before.

Now for the drawer side of the slide, we have nothing to set the drawer on this time, but there is another way. Grab the finished drawer, now measuring from the center of a hole on the drawer slide to the bottom of the side, not including the bottom panel since it's routered it's hard to see. I have 1 1/8". Take and transfer that to the other drawer and make a mark. Grab your adjustable square and hold it flush to the front of the drawer, on your mark and strike a line. This line is the center of the screw hole on the drawer slide. Lay the slide in place, get your setback of 1/32" from the front of it and drill the front hole and screw it in place. Then straighten the slide back out along your mark because it probably moved, drill and screw in the center screw. Do the same for the rear screw, again backing this one off slightly. Repeat for the other side. Phew...see, not so bad.

This and the next step kind of go together, they both have elements that can be first but I split them up as 2 sperate jobs. The pulls need to be first explanation wise, but the fronts need to be first because, well, you need fronts to put pulls onto. So here we go. The pulls are simple to add, but the first thing I like to do is add some masking tape in the area I know I'll be working so I can make my marks on that (easier to see plus nothing to sand off later), plus less tear out and chipping when I make my holes. If you are adding a knob, literally take the height of your drawer front, and make a mark half way down. Then take the width and make a mark. Cross them with a X and that's center.

For a bar pull, mostly the same. Take your height and make a mark halfway down, but put them offset of center to each side. Then take and mark center from the width. Now your height marks are level with each other so we will use a ruler or square and join the 2 marks we made from the height with a line. Take and measure the spacing from the center of your holes on your bar, divide that measurement in 2. Going from the center width mark we made, go back each direction half your total measurement each side, and make marks along the line we made. Now we have 2 marks that are the same distance away from center to the left and right, and the same distance down from the top. Centered! Add a small piece of wood behind your drawer front to avoid blowout on the back side and drill your holes.

Alrighty, next, but also before the last step lol, we need to make our fronts. These can be solid stock wood from something like a 1x10 of craftsman pine or whatever size works for your drawer. Or you can make it from 3/4" plywood and edge band all 4 sides and sand them smooth like the drawer tops, if you are going to paint it this is fine. I made mine from 1x3 poplar and some 1/4" ply but that is another explanation entirely, they are made just like cabinet doors, I have a video explaining it.

Either way you make them, they need to be sized correctly. Measure your total width opening and then take 1/4" off that. This gives you 1/8" on each side which is perfect. As for your height you want the same thing, so if you only have one drawer that makes it easy, do the same as the width. If you have more than one drawer like I do, account for your gaps accordingly. I need 1/8" on top and bottom, but if I make them both 1/4" smaller than my total I'll end up with 1/8" between the drawer front and the frame, but between the 2 fronts would now be combined at 1/4" gap. So I need to take my 1/8" gap, and cut the other in half at 1/16" gap. So all total I need to take my total opening and make it 3/16" smaller height wise. This way when I place it 1/8" up from the bottom and down from the top, my two 1/16" gaps between the fronts combine to make 1/8". You need to do that for every combined gap you have. The actual math I used to make it easy however was to take my total opening height of 18" and remove all my total gaps, so I needed 3/8"gone, that left me with 17 5/8" total. I also made my drawers 9" and 5", but my fronts are 2" larger than that so 11" and 7", but I need 3/16" gone per front, so 10 13/16" and 6 13/16". Total those 2 up and they should be your correct total height.

Now, with that made we need to place them in. Set it in place and slide it all the way to one side, using some playing cards fit as many as you can along the other side in the opening. Split that pile in half and that is your spacer for each side. Make another 2 piles of the same amount and place them under it. Since all our gaps should be about 1/8" this should work fine. Now you can take your drill and drill though your holes for the hardware pull, remove the upper drawer and attach the pull. That will hold the front in place while your add some screws in each corner through the drawer from the inside, just be sure they are short enough to not come all the way through. With that done that the same card spacers and repeat the same trick for the upper front. Another way to attach the fronts is to take a small screw and go through the pull holes from the front. This will screw the 2 together. Open the drawer and add a screw to each corner like before. Remove the front screws, drill through and attach your pulls. The nice thing about doing it this way is we can hold a block of scrap inside the drawer while we drill the pulls holes from the front so we don't get any blowout in the drawer.

I hope your project turned out awesome!

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions and I'll get back to ya!

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CanaDIYan

canadiyanjesse@gmail.com