A Vintage Bear
Recently while cleaning up I came across an old teddy bear (I estimate about sixty years old) and decided to copy it. I had a stack of excess washcloths in the closet and these seemed very suitable for creating a 'vintage look'.
While these bears can also be made with the sewing machine, I wanted to make an Instructable without the use of machines this time so that anyone can make it. I will describe how the bears are made by hand. It may seem like a lot of work, but it's not that bad. I made six in total: one bear with the sewing machine and five bears by hand. When sewing the felt: if you don't want to see the blanket stitch, you should use thread in the color of the felt.
While these bears can also be made with the sewing machine, I wanted to make an Instructable without the use of machines this time so that anyone can make it. I will describe how the bears are made by hand. It may seem like a lot of work, but it's not that bad. I made six in total: one bear with the sewing machine and five bears by hand. When sewing the felt: if you don't want to see the blanket stitch, you should use thread in the color of the felt.
Supplies
2 Washcloths (per bear)
Pins
Yarn
Basting thread
Black cotton thread, about 3 m
Cotton thread or embroidery silk in the color of the washcloths about 4 m
Needle
Darning needle
Fiberfill or other filling
Pencil
Squared paper 0.5 cm x 0.5 cm per square
Paper to cut out pattern (option)
Small piece of felt big enough to cut out the soles and inside ears
Scissors
Pins
Yarn
Basting thread
Black cotton thread, about 3 m
Cotton thread or embroidery silk in the color of the washcloths about 4 m
Needle
Darning needle
Fiberfill or other filling
Pencil
Squared paper 0.5 cm x 0.5 cm per square
Paper to cut out pattern (option)
Small piece of felt big enough to cut out the soles and inside ears
Scissors
The Pattern
Copy the pattern from the photos, use squared paper with a square size of 0.5 cm x 0.5 cm.
I made two bodies. Bodice 1 is the pattern in the photo that also includes the forelegs, hind-legs and head. Bodice 2 is a modified bodice because I wanted to make a variant, this is a bodice with (just like the head) an intermediate piece and is on the other photo. This can be used with the forelegs, hind-legs and head of body one.
If you want to draw a bear or another animal from a toy yourself, there is a photo of how I did that, in this case the body. The starting point is a vertical line. This line only exists on paper, is the center of a pattern piece and serves as an aid. Then measure the bear from the seam to the center (the vertical line) and from the center to the next seam. Connect these two points to form a horizontal line. So I made a total of four horizontal lines, but make as many as needed. If you then draw the points from the top vertical line around the horizontal points, you get a reasonable body. Adjust the curves if necessary.
Because I doubted whether the original size would go out of two washcloths, I reduced each pattern-piece by about two cm. I did this by drawing a reduced version in the original size. After all the parts were measured and resized, I redrawn them on squared paper so they can go in my pattern folder. From the squared paper I traced them onto pattern paper. But if you don't want to save the pattern, you can skip this step and cut the parts right away from the squared paper.
I first sewed a test bodice, but it turned out so well that I haven't tried the rest of the pattern. The green, blue and yellow bears are made with body 1. The purple, beige and orange bear are made with body 2. On two bears I used buttons for the eyes. However, if you're making this bear for small children, don't use buttons but embroider the eyes!
I made two bodies. Bodice 1 is the pattern in the photo that also includes the forelegs, hind-legs and head. Bodice 2 is a modified bodice because I wanted to make a variant, this is a bodice with (just like the head) an intermediate piece and is on the other photo. This can be used with the forelegs, hind-legs and head of body one.
If you want to draw a bear or another animal from a toy yourself, there is a photo of how I did that, in this case the body. The starting point is a vertical line. This line only exists on paper, is the center of a pattern piece and serves as an aid. Then measure the bear from the seam to the center (the vertical line) and from the center to the next seam. Connect these two points to form a horizontal line. So I made a total of four horizontal lines, but make as many as needed. If you then draw the points from the top vertical line around the horizontal points, you get a reasonable body. Adjust the curves if necessary.
Because I doubted whether the original size would go out of two washcloths, I reduced each pattern-piece by about two cm. I did this by drawing a reduced version in the original size. After all the parts were measured and resized, I redrawn them on squared paper so they can go in my pattern folder. From the squared paper I traced them onto pattern paper. But if you don't want to save the pattern, you can skip this step and cut the parts right away from the squared paper.
I first sewed a test bodice, but it turned out so well that I haven't tried the rest of the pattern. The green, blue and yellow bears are made with body 1. The purple, beige and orange bear are made with body 2. On two bears I used buttons for the eyes. However, if you're making this bear for small children, don't use buttons but embroider the eyes!
the Stitches
The stitches used are the blanket stitch, the running stitch, the backstitch and tailor tack. If this will be your first sewing piece, you can see how to make the stitches in the pictures. The eyes and nose are made with a flat stitch (which is a kind of a pile backstitches above each other).
Cutting the Felt and Terry Cloth Parts
Cut the inside ears, soles for arms and soles for the feet twice without seam from felt and set aside. I myself use leftover felt from other projects.
For the parts that are cut from terry cloth, cut a seam of half a cm around the pattern. If you are using fabric that frays a lot, use a slightly larger seam.
Place the head on double-folded terry cloth and tailor tack around the pattern. Then cut out the head. The tailor tack ensures that you have two identical parts. Do the same with the ears.
Place the pattern from body 1 on the double folded terry cloth and baste around the body and cut out. If using body 2 then go around the pattern with the tailor tack stitch.
Place the foreleg on double-folded terry cloth, baste all around and cut out. Repeat this step for the second foreleg. Do the same with the hind-legs.
What left is the intermediate piece of the head. This needs to be cut once and also (if you make body 2) cut the intermediate piece for the body once. You do not need to baste or tailor tack these pieces. All parts are now cut and ready to assemble.
For the parts that are cut from terry cloth, cut a seam of half a cm around the pattern. If you are using fabric that frays a lot, use a slightly larger seam.
Place the head on double-folded terry cloth and tailor tack around the pattern. Then cut out the head. The tailor tack ensures that you have two identical parts. Do the same with the ears.
Place the pattern from body 1 on the double folded terry cloth and baste around the body and cut out. If using body 2 then go around the pattern with the tailor tack stitch.
Place the foreleg on double-folded terry cloth, baste all around and cut out. Repeat this step for the second foreleg. Do the same with the hind-legs.
What left is the intermediate piece of the head. This needs to be cut once and also (if you make body 2) cut the intermediate piece for the body once. You do not need to baste or tailor tack these pieces. All parts are now cut and ready to assemble.
Sewing the Head
Start with the ears. Sew the edge with a needle and thread to prevent the fabric from fraying (see photo). Tighten the thread so that the earpiece curls but do not pull the thread at the bottom of the ear. Place the inner ear of felt on the terry cloth outer ear and sew it with a blanket stitch. Fold the bottom inwards and secure this also with a blanket stitch. Do these steps with the other ear as well and set them aside.
Carefully pull the parts of the head apart and cut the tailor tack between the two heads pieces. Place the intermediate piece on one part of the head, starting at the tip where the nose will be (see photo). Turn over the edge of these parts, head and intermediate piece just like you did with the ears but do not tighten the tread.
Sew the intermediate piece to the main part with a backstitch, do not make the stitches too big (about 0.4 cm per stitch) and then remove the threads from the tailor tack. Repeat this step with the other part of the head, also close the seam under the nose up to the bottom.
About 2 cm remains open at the bottom to turn the head. Turn the head and fill it about halfway with fiberfill. By filling the head a little, it is easier to determine where the eyes, nose and mouth will be. The nose starts at the point where the intermediate piece and the main parts meet.
For the nose and mouth, use a 1.5 meter black cotton thread, pass it through the darning needle and pull until it is double. Insert the thread from the inside through the tip of the nose and leave about 10 cm in the head. With a double strand sew the nose first and then make 3 backstitches downwards.
Also make the mouth with backstitches. Once the mouth is done, put the thread back into the head and tie a knot with the other end of the thread. You can trim the excess thread but don't cut too close to the knot.
You can determine the location of the eyes with the help of two pins. Once you've set the location, make the eyes the same way you did the nose. Don't forget to take out the pins. The position of the eyes, how you make the shape of the mouth and how you fill the head determine the facial expression.
Fill the head with fiberfill. You can fill tightly so that the head becomes firm. Or you can fill a little less to make the head softer. Then sew the bottom closed. Take the ears and sew the ears to the head. Again, you can use pins to determine the position of the ears. Sew the ears to the head both at the front and at the back. The head is now ready.
Carefully pull the parts of the head apart and cut the tailor tack between the two heads pieces. Place the intermediate piece on one part of the head, starting at the tip where the nose will be (see photo). Turn over the edge of these parts, head and intermediate piece just like you did with the ears but do not tighten the tread.
Sew the intermediate piece to the main part with a backstitch, do not make the stitches too big (about 0.4 cm per stitch) and then remove the threads from the tailor tack. Repeat this step with the other part of the head, also close the seam under the nose up to the bottom.
About 2 cm remains open at the bottom to turn the head. Turn the head and fill it about halfway with fiberfill. By filling the head a little, it is easier to determine where the eyes, nose and mouth will be. The nose starts at the point where the intermediate piece and the main parts meet.
For the nose and mouth, use a 1.5 meter black cotton thread, pass it through the darning needle and pull until it is double. Insert the thread from the inside through the tip of the nose and leave about 10 cm in the head. With a double strand sew the nose first and then make 3 backstitches downwards.
Also make the mouth with backstitches. Once the mouth is done, put the thread back into the head and tie a knot with the other end of the thread. You can trim the excess thread but don't cut too close to the knot.
You can determine the location of the eyes with the help of two pins. Once you've set the location, make the eyes the same way you did the nose. Don't forget to take out the pins. The position of the eyes, how you make the shape of the mouth and how you fill the head determine the facial expression.
Fill the head with fiberfill. You can fill tightly so that the head becomes firm. Or you can fill a little less to make the head softer. Then sew the bottom closed. Take the ears and sew the ears to the head. Again, you can use pins to determine the position of the ears. Sew the ears to the head both at the front and at the back. The head is now ready.
The Body
The body parts are already baste when you make body 1. If you make body 2 (photo 2 and 3),then follow the method of the head. Turn the edge again to prevent fraying but leave approx. 2 cm open, as the body must be turned later.
Sew the body with the backstitch, leave the same 2 cm open as well. Remove the basting, turn the body, stuff with fiberfill and close the stuffing hole. On to the legs!
Sew the body with the backstitch, leave the same 2 cm open as well. Remove the basting, turn the body, stuff with fiberfill and close the stuffing hole. On to the legs!
The Forelegs
Follow the procedure of body 1 for the forelegs. The forelegs are slightly bent, if you do not fill the legs too tight, the legs can be bent straight or up.
As soon as the forelegs are stuffed and sewn up, place the soles on the legs with a blanket stitch.
As soon as the forelegs are stuffed and sewn up, place the soles on the legs with a blanket stitch.
The Hind-legs
The hind-legs are also made in the same way as the body and arms.
When it comes to these legs, the location of the filling opening is important: it should be at the bottom of the legs.
Once the hind-legs are filled, turn the bottom of the legs over and tighten the thread just like you did with the ears. This keeps the filling in place. Sew the felt soles under the feet with a blanket stitch. Everything is ready, let’s assemble the teddy bear.
When it comes to these legs, the location of the filling opening is important: it should be at the bottom of the legs.
Once the hind-legs are filled, turn the bottom of the legs over and tighten the thread just like you did with the ears. This keeps the filling in place. Sew the felt soles under the feet with a blanket stitch. Everything is ready, let’s assemble the teddy bear.
Assemble the Bear
Sew the head to the body. Do this in the same way as you also put on the ears, so sew the head around
The bear is put together in such a way that the arms and legs can move independently of each other. You need a piece of thread (cotton or embroidery silk) in the color of the terry cloth for both arms and legs, 2m for the forelegs and 2m for the hind-legs. Where at the eyes and nose you put a single thread through the eye of the darning needle, here you pull a double thread through the darning needle and pull it through until it is even with end of the thread. You now have a ‘thread’ that consists of four threads. With one bear I used a double thread, but that is less strong.
Start with the forelegs. Insert the needle on the inside of the leg in the center about 1.5 cm from the top. Insert the needle diagonally to the outside of the arm, make a stitch and stitch back to the inside of the arm and let the needle come out where it went in before (see drawing). Then insert the needle through the body and repeat the step of the first arm with the second arm. Insert the needle again through the body, in the same place you just went through. Tighten the threads and place a knot between the first arm and the body. The arms can now move independently of each other.
Repeat these steps with the hind-legs and the vintage bear is ready.
The bear is put together in such a way that the arms and legs can move independently of each other. You need a piece of thread (cotton or embroidery silk) in the color of the terry cloth for both arms and legs, 2m for the forelegs and 2m for the hind-legs. Where at the eyes and nose you put a single thread through the eye of the darning needle, here you pull a double thread through the darning needle and pull it through until it is even with end of the thread. You now have a ‘thread’ that consists of four threads. With one bear I used a double thread, but that is less strong.
Start with the forelegs. Insert the needle on the inside of the leg in the center about 1.5 cm from the top. Insert the needle diagonally to the outside of the arm, make a stitch and stitch back to the inside of the arm and let the needle come out where it went in before (see drawing). Then insert the needle through the body and repeat the step of the first arm with the second arm. Insert the needle again through the body, in the same place you just went through. Tighten the threads and place a knot between the first arm and the body. The arms can now move independently of each other.
Repeat these steps with the hind-legs and the vintage bear is ready.